Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Theres no defined point - Gearbox especially

It will depend on how its been driven, condition/age, and power delivery.

well i notice you have a lot of power. have you had to upgrade/ replace any driveline parts?

its regarding a street gtr with approx 600-650hp at the fly

occasionally seeing the strip and track

Edited by druzilla32

604awkw and I'm still using stock diffs.

Gearbox is a matter of how you drive it like everyone else has said. 3rd will be the first to go once you get decent power but I managed to get 446rwkw in mine before I swapped to the OS gearset.

Stripped the stock gearbox down and it was still in perfect condition.

I broke a gearbox ~5 days after having my car back on road with a base tune (440rwhp) - but the box was in fairly poor condition to start.

I'd suggest if you're at the point of being serious about track/strip performance you'd want an aftermarket gearset, straight cut or otherwise.

Diffs have been ok so far as with shafts, but I don't exactly give it a hard time

you can blow one with stock power if you work at it. some nice flat shifting into second, and into 4th would be a good way to ensure that the synchros wear out in a matter of days, which will then lead to some nice fractured gears as you bang it into 4th and let out the clutch at 7000 odd rpm. if you treat it more nicely (ie no flat shifting) and use it the way a synchro box is meant to be used then it will be fine for a long time.

Most twin and tripple plate clutches for gtr's are solid centre. I managed to get a sprung centre nismo twin plate for mine but have still broken 2 gearboxes. 1st box blew third gear and the second box broke second gear under acceleration in gear. This was with 520rwhp on first box and 608rwhp on the second box. New box has 627rwhp to cope with and i dont think its gonna last very long, Maybe a couple weeks. Time for OS Gearset.

Edited by R32-GTS
Anyone know how much weaker the R32 GTS4 gearbox and Diffs are, what power can a GTS4 handle?

I have *heard* 300kw at the wheels. As has been said though, its how you treat it.

the gts4 has different ratios to a gtr, including a different final drive. Well, according to the specs anyway.

EDIT:: oops, wrong specs

EDIT2: As has been pointed out below, r32 gts-4 is different. Perhaps I should widen my perspective to include other models... Perhaps not.

Edited by ebola

GTS-4 and GTR gearboxes are identical, except that the R32 GTS-4's (with the RB20DET) used different ratios. The R33 boxes and diffs are identical ratios.

But driveline strength also must include the clutch and half shafts. The GTS-4 is considerably less than the GTR in both clutch capacity and rear half shaft diameter. It also uses four stud wheels.

If you get an R33 GTS-4 and put a GTR clutch in it, and upgrade the wheel hubs and half shafts, it will be identical to a GTR in both strength and ratios.

But an R32 GTS-4 will have different ratios, but could be made just as strong with the same clutch and driveshaft changes.

GTS-4 and GTR gearboxes are identical, except that the R32 GTS-4's (with the RB20DET) used different ratios. The R33 boxes and diffs are identical ratios.

But driveline strength also must include the clutch and half shafts. The GTS-4 is considerably less than the GTR in both clutch capacity and rear half shaft diameter. It also uses four stud wheels.

If you get an R33 GTS-4 and put a GTR clutch in it, and upgrade the wheel hubs and half shafts, it will be identical to a GTR in both strength and ratios.

But an R32 GTS-4 will have different ratios, but could be made just as strong with the same clutch and driveshaft changes.

Have tou had the GTR and GTS4 boxes in pieces? Are the gear and sahft sizes the same ( apart from ratio).

Are you sure all R32 GTS4 turbos came with 4 stud wheels??

Sky30, I have not personally compared the two gearboxes side by side fully dismantled, but know someone that has. There is one bearing with a different Nissan part number, not sure which, but both bearings are physically interchangeable and probably make no real practical difference. It is the sort of production change that car makers sometimes make during a production run.

The 4WD gearboxes are essentially otherwise identical in all respects, and used in both GTR and GTS-4. Gears, casing, shafts, selectors, seals, transfer case, everything are absolutely identical.

Diffs are the same too. R160 in the front and R200 in the rear all are 4.11 ratio except the R32 which has 4.32 diffs. The rear LSD can be viscous, multi-plate, or electronic, depending on what was ordered. Some GTS-4s even have the electronic diff usually only seen in the V spec GTR, though that is extremely rare.

The R34 GTR with the six speed Getrag has different gear ratios and diff ratios again, (3.54, I think ?). The front diff is an R180.

Edited by Warpspeed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...