Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today at bel i got a power fc install and tune, only mods are k&n panel and bov.

I got 153rwkw and 435Nm torque (r34 gtt), does this seem a bit low for the power output?

ive heard of ppl getting 170's with just power fc but ive been told it depends on the type of dyno and run?

one of the bel guys told me hes seen cars get 180+ and only 140+ kw on thier dyno, so how does that work? :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/
Share on other sites

im no car expert.. but it sounds like there might be one of ya problems..

If you got like a 3" turboback exhaust it could add about 20kw or so..

153 + 20 = 173.. seems like a better result :)

im also no dyno expert either :D but ya tuning people were probably just giving you some story to make ya happy with the result....

also when you do get the exhaust they will have to retune the PFC again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1779498
Share on other sites

Morgs is correct, differnt dyno's read differntly and dynolog dyno do read lower than others, but whos to say that the dynolog dyno is incorrect, could it be that the dynodynamics dyno is measuring way to high?....all i can say is continue to use the same dyno every time so you can see the difference in mods regardless of what the total Hp is in relation to others

Edited by Zenith
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1780085
Share on other sites

153 with a stock exhaust is as much as you can expect.

first person ive heard also thats done a PFC before exhaust

I did DFA, SITC and IEBC before the exhaust on the Stagea, does that count?

33% power increase with zero mechanical mods.

:blink: cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1780159
Share on other sites

my mechanic uses dynolog and with a power fc, 13psi, exhaust, pod, fmic i got 170rwkw which i know most guys are usually a tad over the 200rwkw on a normal dyno dynamics in shoot out mode, also my mechanic agreed with me that his reads alot lower and mainly uses it as a tuning tool not really to see how hi figures he can get,

then again ive heard of some dyno dynamics figures that are rediculously high, like 1 guy claiming to have 215rwkw on 10psi, fmic, power fc, exhaust and pod, i just cant see that happenin

yer stick to the same dyno for more consistent records

ben...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1780167
Share on other sites

thanks for all the feedback.

i got pfc before exhaust coz i was running very rich and getting bad fuel economy, was worried i might have a problem but tune fixed everything :) ; also once i get exhaust etc its a hourly rate for dyno tune, so no $500 fee everytime i want a tune :P

i didnt get a dyno run before pfc install, only before pfc tune amd i went from 138rwkw to 153rwkw and from 210Nm min 420Nm max torque to 302 Nm min 435Nm max.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1780785
Share on other sites

Does it really matter unless you are a dyno queen?. Dyno shymo.When i last looked,a dyno is a tuning tool.If you go to the same dyno with the same(honest) tuner and correction factors are correct and there is no "X" factor input,who cares.Provided it reads consistently,it is a excellent tuning tool.However a whole industry has been built around the "my dad is tougher than yours and my shitter made more Kilowatts than yours".Hey book it in,lean it out,bang some timing in and look at the top end power increase (and overlay it over original power run graph).and they cant get the cash out fast enough.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1787865
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Ok. Can anyone out there shed some light on this dyno sheet.

300.jpg

Looking at the IT and AT is it fair to assume the numbers are a bit higher then what the thing would make on an engine dyno?

I tend to think, they have done a few runs at different boost levels, and the inlet temos could be getting up there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1906283
Share on other sites

i made 35 rwkw's changing my exhaust

i believe my second exhaust (blitz jobby) was probably as restrictive, if not more than the stocko unit

when i ditched it for a 3" straight through exhaust (and retune, which wasnt cheap) power reading was much better

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1906562
Share on other sites

The intake temp probe just sits next to the air filter, so assuming it was a bonnet up run i wouldn't expect more than about 10 degrees different even with an unenclosed pod no matter the time on the dyno.

However, if the bonnet was down it is probably a legitimate power figure for an unenclosed pod.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/97967-different-dynos/#findComment-1906563
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...