Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Anyone using one of Greddys alloy radiators on an R33 GTR? I have seen a few people using them and I would like to know if the factory fan shroud will fit with these or if the shroud becomes a throw away item.

Cheers,

Nick

I havent seen one fitted Nick but if i was to fit one i would definantly fit the shroud on .

Blitz - I have one on my car, the radiator shroud could not go back on, the brackets that the shroud bolts onto are not there, so I'm assuming it may be too thick and it would get too close to the engine if u were to put it back on.

With that said, I've had it on the car for over a year now and it has never overheated, the car is driven on the street and on the track aswell, on the street it sits on 84 degrees when cruising....

Hope that helps...

P.S I have a pic if ur interested to see how it will sit in the engine bay....

Hey Nick,

The shroud won't fit with the Greddy rad.

Interesting, that leads me to wonder which if any of the Japanese made radiators will allow for the refitting of the shroud?

I have a feeling that ARC allows for this

Blitz - I have one on my car, the radiator shroud could not go back on, the brackets that the shroud bolts onto are not there, so I'm assuming it may be too thick and it would get too close to the engine if u were to put it back on.

With that said, I've had it on the car for over a year now and it has never overheated, the car is driven on the street and on the track aswell, on the street it sits on 84 degrees when cruising....

Hope that helps...

P.S I  have a pic if ur interested to see how it will sit in the engine bay....

84 is not bad, and i know your car is in a much higher state of tune than mine, but with the oil cooler and standard rad my water temp always sits on about 80 degrees. do you have a big thick front mount?

84 is not bad, and i know your car is in a much higher state of tune than mine, but with the oil cooler and standard rad my water temp always sits on about 80 degrees. do you have a big thick front mount?

My oil cooler sits behind the bumper on the passenger side behind the indicator (R33 GTR), I've also got an N1 water pump if that makes any difference.... City driving and idling in traffic it sits on 84, on the highway it drops down a couple of degrees....

Hi Nick, i got a Greedy radiator in mine and got the big girl running on the wkd woohoo would you like to post a pic or two, mine bolted straight in shroud and all. Its truely a beautiful piece of gear.

i also got nismo low temp thermostat and 8.5 to 9litre oil capiacty without the oil cooler fitted yet and run temps in cool weather seem quiet low at moment but only dont like 40kms (68 to 72deg)

Jagr33 you got your new turbos in yet and if so how did they shape up.

pete

Edited by pnblight
yeah, i guess the n1 pump may make a little difference. damn they are a nice looking radiator :(

Hey Pete,

Yeah picked it up a week ago, new turbo setup is sweeeet!!! So much more response down low and midrange compared to T517Z's, but do lack the top end....

Sending you PM now....

BACK ON TOPIC!!! :D

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...