Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The front one does make a heap of difference to corner handling. The front feels flatter (less body roll) as you go through a corner.

The rear makes less of a difference (due to it being in a different point in the suspension geometry) or something liek that :)

Worth having on the car though...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1809524
Share on other sites

I liked them i have 1 front and back

back end loser when you go side ways and front takes out the body roll

i like them my self

i payed 100 for the front and 125 for the back easy to fit front but back you will need to cut the boot pannels

james

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1810751
Share on other sites

2 things that strut braces do are

1/ Help mantain wheel alignment by reducing strut tower flex

2/ Look good

And not necessarily in that order.

A good strut brace, that works as engineered, will work on a car with a soft chassis. Its there to stop the car's body from flexing under lateral loads, and let the suspension do its work.

On older cars it will make a noticable difference, since their chassis would be relatively weaker...even before several years of wear and tear have worked on them.

Both of my cars have had factory strut braces, so I have no idea what its like without them. But, as people have said, it had better be bolted on solidly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1811373
Share on other sites

The only way to know is try with and without through the same series of corners. It does make a difference on the front as it makes it a little more responsive to wheel inputs. there are also a number of other mods that can do this so consider it part of an overall system improvement.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1811512
Share on other sites

i was quite sceptical when installing mine, as to if it would make any difference at all.

Front didn't make much difference (I put them on first) then a week later I put the rears on and it felt heaps better, (using for drift, tended to be alot more stable)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1812426
Share on other sites

See, I've got an R32 GTS 4 door.. standard open wheel diff.. I bought the car stock as a rock..

Added a front adjustable strut brace, you could DEFINITLY feel the difference.. the body felt alot more solid..

My flatmate then made me a box section strut brace for the rear.. again, him being an engineer and not into cars he definitly noticed the difference as did I..

I've got an open wheel diff as I said.. 90% of the time at speed it now spins both wheels.. not just a single one.. Made a huge improvement..

Next thing i'm going for is sway bars..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1813797
Share on other sites

ive got front and back on my r32 and i noticed alot of different with the body roll not sure if it was from the front or the back on put the on at the same time put you cant feel it sort of pulling or leaning out in corners i was happy with mine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1815297
Share on other sites

The usual strut brace design links (RHS to LHS) the top suspension mounting points and effectively doubles the rigidity of them. By reducing the flex, this stops changes in the suspension geometry, mostly camber. The springs and stabiliser bars work exactly as they did before, so there is no reduction in roll. The improved in handling comes from helping to maintain the static wheel elignment settings when the suspension is moving and the chassis flexing.

On R32/33/34 Skylines (2 door & 4 door) and equivalent Stageas, the front strut brace actually serves to effectively link the upper control arm inner mounting points to each other (RHS to LHS). This is because the upper corntol arms are actually mounted to the inner guard (chassis). You can see this by simply looking through the front wheel arches. So a front strut brace does serve quite a usefull purpose in helping to control the suspension geometry.

On the rear (of these models) this is simply not the case, the upper control arm inner mounting mounts are mounted to the sub frame, not the chassis. Adding a rear strut brace to the chassis between the rear shock towers, doesn't help the rigidity of the sub frame. You can also confirm this for yourself by loooking through the rear wheel arch and examining the upper control arm mounting points. Then compare this to where the strut brace actually mounts. Therefore the effect of fitting a strut brace to the rear is much, much less than the front.

:D cheers :cheers:

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99285-strut-brace/#findComment-1815682
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...