As a previous owner of a tuned Champion Blue R32 GTR, I had the pleasure of reviewing a similar car last week here in Sydney. A very original R32 Silver JDM import with a few V-spec bits but pretty much standard. Many of you will be fully across this, but I thought you all might be enjoy our assessment and real drive, especially those considering buying one. You can let us know what you think in the comments (or of any glaring inaccuracies!).
By True Slide
I got this car in pretty rough shape but it had a running 25 neo, haltech and a specialties engine harness. It didnt run well, awful ecu calibration, blown tomei turbo, a fuel pump flying around the fuel tank and a parasitic drain on the battery. Ive had it for about a 1.5 years now at the time of starting this thread and Ive been thru every part of this car. Ive converted to electric fans, created a few relay circuits to eliminated the battery drain, relocated the battery and this list goes on and on. Its a fun side project so things aren't in a rush and I don't daily drive the car. It sees a few track days but I mostly run my Camaro ss for those. All work is done by me in my garage, even the ECU calibration. The over all paint job was sent to a body shop though.
So current mod list is
Engine-Rb25 neo stock with smoothed exhaust port humps
Tomei MX8265 rebuilt, 3inch side exit, Greddy FMIC, Haltech platinum,Tomei timing belt, Denso 550cc, zerofab fuel rail, DW400 pump, unknown IM and 90mm TB, grimmspeed boost controller, Ebay radiator,hks cap, mishimoto fans, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 12lb flywheel
Chassis- S15 Helical LSD, delrin subframe bushings, spherical rear tie rods and rucas, KBee coilovers altered spring rates, 300zx calipers, powerstop trackday pads, steel lines, Impul R5 wheels, 255/40r17 R888r, corner balanced, half stripped interior r32 gtr seats, personal steering wheel, gktech shifter springs and brass collar, poly steering rack bushings, spherical tension rods, s13 rear sway bar
Seized and rusted ISR coilovers that came with the car had to be cut off the front stud
Clutch fan failure is the reason I went electric
Then on to body work, dent repair and deleting the type M wing and making holes for the GTR wing
The used Kbee coilovers needed new bushings but I cant get in touch with them so I fitted some VW bus sway bar bushings into them haha
nasty sound deading removal with dry ice
Align and balance, thats the before weights
Stock turbo dyno 248whp at 14psi
Hey everyone, ever since I was around 10-12 (im 17 now) I have had me eyes set on buying an R32 GTS-T, but I was told multiple times because they're turbocharged I wouldn't be able to get one until i'm 25, but recently i've read up on a few sources that in QLD you can own and drive a turbocharged R32 GTS-T on P's because they are about 123 kW/T and the max is 125 kW/T, if this is true I also read up that you need an exemption, what would I have to do to be able to drive one? (I'm aware im prolly gonna get some comments saying its not worth it, or that i'm going to get pulled over all the time etc etc, but i honestly don't mind this is my dream car an im down to go through all that.)
Please let me know if this is the wrong area of the forum to be asking.
So this is my first ever write up and unfortunately I didn’t take very many progress pictures but I will try my best to explain the process with some picture aids ??
* plastic floor trim 96in x 6in x 5/16 (x2) you can get these at Lowe’s or Home Depot
* 3 inch L brackets (x8) Found at Lowe’s
* Self tapping screws ( to mount brackets to car)
* Hardware to mount bracket to skirt extensions ( I used black license plate hardware with plastic backings x16)
Tools: Grinder, drill, something to cut the plastic trim with.
So for a sedan with stock type M skirts the overall length is 73 inches (coupes might be different I suggest measuring before cutting). After this you want to get the skirt extension as level as you can between the front and rear low points to do this I used various objects like toolboxes and children’s books
I started with measuring out the two brackets that would be in the center of the skirt, I measured from the top of the pinch weld to the bottom of the skirt extension. If i remember correctly it was roughly 1.25-1.5 inches, always cut bigger than you think as you can grind down the bracket until you have a perfect fit.
The end result would be for the top of the bracket to be flush with the top of the pinch weld, Once you have the bracket cut to the right spot and the bottom arm of the bracket gently rests against the skirt with the various objects keeping the skirt level then you mark the hole with a sharpie and install the bracket. Once you have the two center brackets installed to the car you can drive some temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension to hold it in place as well as Mark the holes for the permanent hardware. Now it’s time to work on the ends, these are a little more complex to line up and install as you have to more aware of the jacking locations.
For the front I had to turn my steering wheel to gain access to inside of the wheel well and feel for a flush surface to mount the bracket to, as i held the bracket against the surface and lined it up with the bottom of the skirt extension i used a sharpie to mark the hole and kinda outline the bracket so i had a general idea of where to drill once I jacked the car up and got under it. If you’re pretty coordinated you could probably just blindly full send a screw through the hole. Same concept applied to the rear. Just make sure you have plenty of space between the bracket and the jack pad as you will have to trim the inside of the skirt to have room to use the the jack pads. Once the skirt extension is mounted you can mark where you need to cut to allow a floor jack access to the pads. Once the ends are installed drive some temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension. Or just mark the holes on the bottom with a sharpie to drill later. Now all that’s left is marking the area to cut for the jack pads, uninstall the skirt extension and make the cuts.
Unfortunately my car is too low to use the jack pads without the floor jack arm making contact with the skirt extension, to get around this I either jack up the car from the differential, use the emergency jack, or you could potential use something on the floor jack pad to help it gain elevation before the arm makes contact with the extension.
After i made the cuts i reinstalled everything with the temp screws through the bottom of the skirt extension and made sure everything was still level. Once I was happy with it I uninstalled everything including the brackets and prepped for paint. At this point I drilled out the holes to accommodate the permanent hardware ( I would try and find something that has a really flush bolt head for a cleaner look)
Once the extensions and brackets are painted it’s time to install everything, make sure you remember which bracket goes where or you will be making extra adjustments and possibly drilling new holes. To install the hardware through the top you will need to install the brackets to extensions first then install the entire assembly on the car. After the brackets are installed on the extension I would suggest to install the center two brackets first and then work the ends.
I hope this write up helps anyone trying to do this, and if you have any questions send me a pm and I’ll do my best to answer them ??
I've seen quite a few different ways to mount a battery in the trunk but a lot of them involved welding or drilling holes into the chassis itself so I did a little experiment to see if there was a method that was non permanent (at least the battery mounting part).
I started by cutting out a piece of plywood using the trunk carpet as a stencil.
Then I started making a box. Since I didn't have a welder I used two different methods. For one piece I cut out a piece of metal and bent it into a U shape to make the bottom and two of the sides. Then I cut out one side and created a few 90 degree brackets and riveted them to hold one side. The other side I wanted to see if it would be easier to just make another U and rivet that on.
After the box was assembled the rest was pretty easy. I drilled holes from the box into the wood, through the carpet to where I wanted to mount it. I also put a layer of foam on the bottom of the wood and countersunk screws to keep the bottom as smooth as possible.
Test fit the battery. (Note: I had to cut the wood in half to get the whole thing into the trunk.)
Put a foam sheet at the bottom of the box to protect the bottom of the battery from the hardware sticking up.
I'll probably revisit this to make the wood a little more sturdy but here is the end product. (The extra hole was from before I put the foam in, I thought I needed it to feed the wire through lol)
Not my best work putting the box together. I'll definitely re make the box to make it more aesthetically pleasing, maybe paint it.