It's only a tiny thing I know, but I've lost the cap to my overflow bottle and am currently using an oversized bottle lid, held in place with ugly ass tape.
Does anyone have a spare cap they would part with? I thought I'd have a spare from one of my old S13's but alas, no dice.
I'm in Mount Gravatt in Brisbane and likely won't be able to make it to the wreckers this weekend, so if anyone's around with or willing to post a spare one I'll gladly give you some $$ for it.
I'm also on the lookout for a snorkel to suit an R32 GTS-T airbox, those headlight dust covers and the clip for the bonnet stand if anyone has them.
Thanks for reading,
Selling my R32 GTR which I've owned for around 10 years. Selling for the usual reasons, I want to buy a house and hardly drive it anymore. That being said I am in no hurry to get rid of it and am happy to wait as long as needed to find it a good home for the right price. Also I will be the only one driving it, because insurance. If you want anymore information or pictures let me know.
The car is located in Glen Iris, VIC
~90,000km on clock Serviced every 5,000km or less (At J-Tuned, Huntingdale since I moved to Melbourne) New block/build 20,000km ago (Built in Sydney by Croydon Racing Developments(CRD)) Always garaged or undercover
Suspension, Brakes & Driveline: BC Racing BR RS series coilovers Slotted and dimpled rotors OS Giken twin plate clutch Billet flywheel Rota GRID 18" wheels New front driveshafts (Done with engine build) R34 Brake booster Interior: Kenwood double din head unit 4x Kenwood 6" speakers 3 Autometer gauges in center Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, Boost HKS boost controller Turbo Timer Central locking with 2 way alarm 300km/h Speedo Engine: Nissian N1 block (Brand new) Nitto/JE pistons Nitto I beam rods Nitto metal drag head gasket ACL main and big end race bearings ARP 2000 head and main studs Nitto high oil volume pump Nitto rear head oil drain New OEM water pump New OEM thermostat 2x HKS turbo actuators 2x Stainless steel turbo dump pipes Greddy engine oil restrictor Silicone hose kit for water lines Adjustable cam sprockets CRD custom 10L sump 5zigen exhaust High flow cat Koyorad Radiator Nistune ECU 2x HKS 2530 Turbos -5 K&N pod filters R33 injectors? - Previous owner said this was done but haven't confirmed Car is tuned to 280awkw on 98 Fuel, this could obviously be pushed a lot higher with a few more supporting mods, this is the perfect street GTR at the moment but is setup to make big power if you desire. The limiting factor was the stock fuel pump when on the dyno. This car has lived a pretty easy life for the past 10 years I've owned it, never been dragged, tracked or anything like that, just weekend trips over fun roads and highway driving. There is no rust and the body is straight, there are HID lights fitted for low beam and I've just replaced to bonnet latch cable as it was getting quite hard to open. I have a KUDOS motorsport fire extinguisher bracket for the front seat as well but never fitted it. I also have an engineering certificate for the car which was need for registration when imported. I also just replaced the speedo cable with metal pinned end as the plastic one snapped.
The Bad Points:
As I still drive it around there are a few minor bumps and bruises, most would come out with a buff, there is a small dent on the rear RH quarter a suction cup would probably get it out. The front bumper has some stone rash and the rubber seals around the windows and doors probably need to be replaced as they are 30 years old. There is a cigarette burn? on the rear seat, was like that when I bought it but the rest of the interior is in pretty good condition. The HICAS light flicks on every now and then but other then that, this car is in top condition mechanically and with some TLC to the paint and interior it would be one of the best examples of an R32 GTR.
By True Slide
I got this car in pretty rough shape but it had a running 25 neo, haltech and a specialties engine harness. It didnt run well, awful ecu calibration, blown tomei turbo, a fuel pump flying around the fuel tank and a parasitic drain on the battery. Ive had it for about a 1.5 years now at the time of starting this thread and Ive been thru every part of this car. Ive converted to electric fans, created a few relay circuits to eliminated the battery drain, relocated the battery and this list goes on and on. Its a fun side project so things aren't in a rush and I don't daily drive the car. It sees a few track days but I mostly run my Camaro ss for those. All work is done by me in my garage, even the ECU calibration. The over all paint job was sent to a body shop though.
So current mod list is
Engine-Rb25 neo stock with smoothed exhaust port humps
Tomei MX8265 rebuilt, 3inch side exit, Greddy FMIC, Haltech platinum,Tomei timing belt, Denso 550cc, zerofab fuel rail, DW400 pump, unknown IM and 90mm TB, grimmspeed boost controller, Ebay radiator,hks cap, mishimoto fans, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 12lb flywheel
Chassis- S15 Helical LSD, delrin subframe bushings, spherical rear tie rods and rucas, KBee coilovers altered spring rates, 300zx calipers, powerstop trackday pads, steel lines, Impul R5 wheels, 255/40r17 R888r, corner balanced, half stripped interior r32 gtr seats, personal steering wheel, gktech shifter springs and brass collar, poly steering rack bushings, spherical tension rods, s13 rear sway bar
Seized and rusted ISR coilovers that came with the car had to be cut off the front stud
Clutch fan failure is the reason I went electric
Then on to body work, dent repair and deleting the type M wing and making holes for the GTR wing
The used Kbee coilovers needed new bushings but I cant get in touch with them so I fitted some VW bus sway bar bushings into them haha
nasty sound deading removal with dry ice
Align and balance, thats the before weights
Stock turbo dyno 248whp at 14psi
I stripped out all of the old sound deadening material from my R32 GT-R in prep for replacement. In doing so, the rubber grommets / plugs / covers (take your pick of name) in the floor were removed. Most were either somewhat perished, had shrunk or were destroyed by removing the sound deadening. I have bought all of the replacement parts. I have had a bit of a search and looked through the workshop manual but have not been able to identify:
What product should be used to seal the plugs? I am not fussed about using the original product (would prefer not to) but what would be suitable sealant to use now? Some were sealed in using something akin to the seam sealant but this required a combination of dry ice and a hammer to remove. Which plugs should be sealed? Obviously those that cover bolts that need to be removed for maintenance shouldn't be sealed. Also some that I would have thought shouldn't be sealed were or randomly / partially sealed. E.g. 74300AA / 06212-5500P in the spare wheel compartment was sealed when I thought that was supposed to be able to serve as a drain if required (R33 Boot - Water Leak) Pictures from Nissan FAST for reference showing the plugs in question:
As a previous owner of a tuned Champion Blue R32 GTR, I had the pleasure of reviewing a similar car last week here in Sydney. A very original R32 Silver JDM import with a few V-spec bits but pretty much standard. Many of you will be fully across this, but I thought you all might be enjoy our assessment and real drive, especially those considering buying one. You can let us know what you think in the comments (or of any glaring inaccuracies!).