Sign in to follow this  

Sign in to follow this  

From the album:

Steve85's LM Limited

  • 20 images
  • 0 image comments

Photo Information for IMG_3826.jpg

Recommended Comments

There are no comments to display.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Featured Images

  • Similar Content

    • By Sil80monster
      Hi all!
      *** 2K for the lot ***
      Garage Clearance Time
      If no photos of what I have described, just ask.
      Just sick of timewasters so take the lot for 2k!

      6 x Denso 195500-2240 Injectors
      1 x JR Pod Filter
      4 x Jecs A46-00 Injectors
      1 x Nissan RB26 block
      1 x Universal Catalytic Converter 2 & 3 way – 5.9L / 6000LBS – 4” Round / 11” Long / 3” Ends
      5 x New CP Piston Rings CPN-3406
      50 x Oil Filters
      1 x Microtech LT-8s Sequential Fire Ver. 10 ECU
      2 x Garrett Turbo 466071-6C (stock off an R33)
      1 x Power Distribution Block 1x0GA into 4x4GA
      1 x Jecs MAF Mass Air Flow Meter A36-000 N62 / 22680 30P00
      1 x Malpassi Fuel Injection Regulator
      1 x R33 Twin Turbo Pipe
      1 x SX Performance Fuel Regulator 15404
      1 x Nissan ECU A11-000 RG3 - S13
      1 x Nissan ECU A11-000 G90 - S13
      1 x Set of 6 CP Carrillo forged Pistons suit RB30/26
      1 x SR20 Crank Shaft 60J40
      1 x SR20 Red Top Block
      1 x SR20 Black Top Block (non VCT)
      1 x 52F SR20 Block

      Brisbane Location - FREE delivery

    • By gmr
      Hi gents
      Got my eye on something with chrome bumpers so am looking to sell my 1996 R33 Skyline GTST.
      It's not your typical ebay built R33 shitter. Has had money spent on it and is very solid, it's a ball to drive and if I had the room I would keep it.
      130ish km (will check). Majority of the mods are less than 3000km old.
      Engine & fuel:
      Apexi Power FC w/ E85 tune.
      Hypergear high flow turbo
      Blitz FMIC
      Custom IC piping
      Walbro Fuel Pump
      740cc injectors
      Z32 AFM
      3" turbo back exhaust 
      New coilpacks
      New timing belt
      New water pump
      Custom catchcan setup w/ speedflow fittings/lines
      ASI alloy radiator
      Exedy cushion button clutch
      R200 4.3 w/ ATS 1.5 way LSD
      Short shifter
      Hard-race poly engine mounts
      Hard-race poly gearbox mounts
      RDA slotted rotors
      PMU pads 
      BC BR coilovers
      Whiteline sway bar front
      Whiteline sway bar rear
      Hard-race castor arms
      Hard-race front camber arms
      HICAS delete and rear toe kit
      Rear adjustable camber arms (Hard-race rear camber arms come with car but are not installed as yet). 
      Rear traction arms (Hard-race rear traction arms come with car but are not installed as yet). 
      Cusco front strut bar
      Whiteline rear strut bar
      Velo steering wheel
      Velo Podium II XL
      Velo 6pt harness
      Adjustable rail
      HKS boost gauge
      Autometer Water Temp
      VicDrift half-cage with harness bar (drivers)
      Sony headunit.
      Good points:
      Shell and paint is in relatively good nic for it's age.
      Everything works (power windows, mirrors, etc. AC is ice cold). 
      Goes hard, sounds grouse, brakes and gets around corners very well. The ATS diff is sublime.
      Bad points:
      Gearbox is noisy and if shifting flat out it notches at high rpm going 3rd to 4th.
      Rear drivers pod has a crack.
      Cold start tune is fine during summer but is hard going <10 degrees.
      Rego's expired, if you want Vic rego can put you in touch with a few guys who can help.
      $15k ono. Doesn't come with RPF1s/Hankook RS4s, but if you're really keen on them we can sort something out. All and any inspections, tests welcome. 0447 738 908

    • By BakemonoRicer
      In the golden age of now, it is more than obvious that the BCNR33 is the ultimate race-bred chassis out of the lineage.
      Whilst the BNR34 commands a higher price, the reality is upon its debut in Super Taikyu racing it quickly fell behind and was then replaced by the faster older BCNR33 chassis'.
      The design & wheelbase of the BCNR33 relates to it's superlative & brutal performance. This reality meant Nissan focused on 'improving control at the limit' for the BNR34, to help the everyday driver which essentially made it a slower car and why a new Nurburgring lap time was never set.
      Not only did the BCNR33 make history at the Nurburgring, it terrorised Le Mans knocking coming in 5th in Class & 10th overall. We all know how restricted the R33 was in both of these events, so the fact it left 911's, NSX's, F40's and Mclaren F1's behind is simply amazing.
      As we all know, by now most BCNR33's have fell victim to accident damage &/or structural rust particularly in Japan & the UK. Just about every example I looked at in Japan in Grade 4 condition had structural rust through seams and on the underbody. For a long time they were swept under the rug and unappreciated, so this is no suprise.
      Thus it's important that for those of us with an immaculate example - to come here to the thread, drink a coffee, post pictures & discuss just how great the BCNR33 really is.
      If we ever decide to sell (which is highly unlikely due to our sentimental attachment to a 'rare breed') anyone from overseas looking will be able to find us.
    • By georgev
      Hi Guys,
      I am new here.  This is a great site.  I have an R33 GTR Vspec.  I replaced my cracked stock rad and fan with a Mishomoto rad and fan shroud.  The car did not overheat with the stock rad but did with the Mishimoto.  We tried cutting out the fan shroud so that the aircon fan could blow through the rad but the car would still overheat even at idle on a 25 deg day.  We switched back to a factory fan and overheating is gone.  But now I notice coolant on the top of the rad and it seems to be pushing through the Mishimoto rad cap on hot days. Looking at the setup I can't see how the coolant overflow bottle can work, as the overflow hole is above the point where the cap seals, see below photo.  So it seems like the coolant is heating up, expanding and then has nowhere to go except past the cap seal.  You can see the red coolant on the top of the rad.  I can't remember if the setup is the same on the stock rad.  Can someone with a stock rad check for me?  I also noticed that the coolant was boiling in the hoses today, which was 30+ deg.  Is this normal?  Any advice is appreciated.