MANWHORE

spraying wd40 is dangerous. I've been told that it can eat the seals on the shock.

Dark, read what Sir d said carefully. He is correct. Keep in mind, that a headlight is a very precise instrument. A mm movement here or there completely changes optics. Especially over a range of say 50-100 m when the reflector is only about 10x10 cm. Now, essentially, what the plus 50 bulbs do is this I said it above, but i'll clarify it more: They contain xenon gas in the atmospher of the bulb, which makes the halogen cycle occur more efficiently. Therefore, they can overpower the filaments to make them burn hotter and therefore, brighter without them burning out. It has been tested many times. I have conducted tests myself as part of my and my father's work. In the 50-70 m range, light output is about 50% more.

Andru, I don't know whether you'll listen to me or not, as in the past, you haven't seemed to listen to others, but i'll just give you a few quick points. Blue/white bulbs are not brighter. they are just rice. they are white because of the blue filter. Essentially, they filter out yellow light and only let through the whiter light. the majority of light from a halogen bulb is yellow. Plus 50 globes are the best bulbs you can buy. at the 50-70 m, they have about twice the light output. They add xenon gas into the atmosphere of the halogen bulb making it burn hotter and therefore brighter. As a side beenfit, they are also whiter (brighter is whiter - imagine a 25 watt light globe at home, very yellow and dull, compared to a 100 watt globe - bright and white). hid aftermarket kits are f**king shit. Shit cut off, shit light. Expect to glare others and be defected. That is, not really brighter. shines light in all the wrong ways. Original xenons for r34 are cheap. i've seen them go for 500-800$. So either do plus 50 globes + relay mod for max light output using halogen globes. or get original xenons, biut don't do aftermarket kit. If you're just in it for looks - those white bulbs are ok if you just want looks. they're just not as bright. if you get one with an overpowered filament with xenon gas and blue filter, it might just be about as bright as a standard yellow halogen globe - not bad.

Just hook it up to consult. graph the o2 sensor voltage. i wouldn't worry too much about the first few minutes when it's warming up. E.g. what you're looking at - like how long it takes to warm up etc, not that important. What you want to know, is whether it's reading properly once warmed up. No need for cro. consult can graph it. you essentially need to watch it while cruising and you'll notice it oscillating. Then accelerate, it'll go ultra rich. then back off, it'll drop straight off.

Is it just the image, or are those gaps massive? how big are they? The tip is the bit on top of the ceramic.

Gexenon - stock for stock, modded for modded, driving either on the street is the same. If a stock gtr is wasted on the road, so is a stock gtst.

Basically, jump starting is no good. Doens't matter if you use the protected cable, or special booster pack, you always have the potential to blow things e.g. fuses, electrical components etc. Some people on here may beleive differently. You may have done it once, and got away with it a few times, but if you jumped it like 1000 times, something will break. When I was younger, me and my mates used to have this paddock basher that we used to take out on the weekends for doing whatever. The battery was dead. We used to jump it every time either using a protected cable or a booster pack. It would usually be ok, but everynow and then, you'd blow a big fuse. Last jump we ever did on it blew the ecu. Also, keep in mind, that if you've left it for 4 months, the battery might not charge at all.

I agree totally about the have to stop improving somewhere. Reminds me of a story one of my lecturers was telling me about, where the programmers kept on improving and improving the software product, and one day, the company went bust, so the software wasn't paid for I've sent you a pm. edited: to add ps.

Pete, you're gonna kill me, but i couldn't help myself. Would it be possible to include alerts into the device? E.g. a couple of ultra bright blue LEDS - just a couple bucks each bezled into the case. Perhaps 2-3 selectable programmable lights would be good. Then we'd be able to select in the menu what we want it to come on for, and what the threshhold value is? They would be programmable based on selection from the options menu. E.g. led comes on when Rev >= x (selectable from the menu). The LEDs would probably be different colours. e.g. i might set one to shift light, maybe i might set one to speed limit, and maybe a small buzzer for water temp or something

my car didn't idle properly without the afm plugged in. it would stall. also, it didn't idle properly and almost stalled when i left the oil filler cap off and stupidly forgot about it.

It's pretty obvious. If you are uncertain, take it to a mechanic.

yes

That's just bloody ridiculous. Stupid tuners locking the ecu. It makes the thing basically useless. Basiaclly, I would approach the business, and just let them know nicely, that you want to get your ecu retuned, and that they had previously locked it, and therefore, you need the code. If they object, saying that the tune is their property, say, ok, fine, unlock it, and i'll let you delete the tune or something of that sort. But basiaclly, imo, it's wrong, and if I knew that a workshop did that, I wouldn't go there. The idea is that it's meant to be programmable e.g. like with a powerfc, you can change it via the handset. If some bastard has locked it ... Have you contacted 'phil' and asked him?

chowtime, you just lift it, it's clipped in.

I always see people on sau going, so sad to see my car go, i had to sell because I bought a house. I could never do that. The only time I could sell it would be to upgrade it. lol, I reckon if I bought an r34 gtr, or the new gtr coming out, I wouldn't think about my current car for more than 2 seconds. lol

that metal odesn't burn. my guess would be, it's sitting ontop of the pistons, scratched the bores, everywhere in the oil, in the valves, and just about everywhere short of being in the window washer fluid.

Interesting thought andrew. I was under the impression that once the 'wasted spark' actually fired, there was nothing much left in the cylinder, and as such, the spark is just 'wasted'? Therefore, if that is the case, apart from just 'wasting' the spark, there shouldn't be any adverse effects? The main reason why this mod is done, is not for any of the benefits you mentioned above, it's due to the fact that it is very cheap, doesn't suffer any adverse effects, and it allows easy change of plugs, and it keepts the coils away from the heat.

Very well said randy. that is exactly what I did. My reason for doing so was basically the compliance mob had cut big nasty holes in to fit their child restraints.

Jeezus, this thread is filled with so much uncertainty that it's just not funny. Few points for you to consider (for the drag strip of course): A little wheel spin is better than bogging down. Generally, this requires a little more revs, and easing the clutch out. It is car dependant - therefore, you'll have to practice. What I did before, was I would start at 3k rpm. I tried to pop it, it boged. Popping it at 4 did a mini burnout, then bogged. Therefore, for general semi quick launches, without absolutely killing the clutch, I just ease it out at about 4-4.5. But hey, that's just how my car goes with my tyre, suspension, clutch, power delivery etc. Therefore, practice on your own car. But the general principle is avoid bog, avoid burnout, a bit of wheels spin is ok e.g. 10% wheelspin.

it's really hard to give dimensions over the internet because it's not liek a rectangle etc. it has a curve. hard to describe it etc.

How about just take your old one off, trace it out on some mdf?

So essentially, it's $170 for: A $12 8" autobarn neon. You supply the panel, so it doesn't even include panel he masks and sprays over the panel using what? $2 supercheap auto spray paint? Sorry, I think i'll pass.

i didn't see fuel pump, oops, sorry, saw it.

stan, how about 2 wheels? what sort of track work are you talking about?

I think it's safe to say that this is settled. Summary: 1. Any reduction of restriction by removing mesh is negligible. 2. There is a good chance that issues will arise if the mesh is removed, and by refernce to point 1, it would be stupid to do so since there will be no gains anyway.