MANWHORE

reverse has no synchros as far as i'm aware?

THose complaining about standard r32 gtr height - standard height is like a 4wd! Primordial, you'll be alright. My car makes it fine with a mega angle.

The Aim of this thread Ok guys, in anticipation of the premade leather covers coming in, i've started preparing my car for the install. Basically, I'm hoping that this thread can help everyone out, including myself. Whenever any of us get stuck on anything, others can post solutions/suggestions. Please understand that this is the way I am doing it and as such, I don't intend that people rely on it. Please refer to the disclaimer at the bottom. If you're unsure about it, then don't do it. Removing Seats It is probably possible to do it while the seats are in the car, but it seems easier to do it outside of the car. More space. Firstly, I removed the front seats: This is easy. There are just 4 13 mm bolts on each of the 4 corners. They're not very tight either. Remove the back seats: There are 2 bolts located below the bottom cushion. I undid these, then it is still clipped in. I just stuck my hands udner the cushino and pulled upwards. To remove the upper cushion, there are two botls located behind the bottom cushion. I undid these. Then, the top cusion can be removed by lifting up then out. Taking apart the seats Ok, now that the seats are removed, I begun to remove all the plastic trim pieces around the seat. They were only held on by screws. At the moment, it appears that the backrest can be removed. There is one bolt on one side and 2 bolts on the other side under the fabric. However, I don't believe it is necessary to remove it, and as such, I have left the backrest on. I removed the headrests by just pressing the button and pulling them up. Issues that need resolving (guys, please try and help me out with these, as I beleive they will help you get a better result: 1. how do you remove the lumbar support knob. 2. how do you remove those little plastic feet that surround the headrest rods on the seat back? Warning: Please note, I am merely just giving an outline of how I did it. Please don't rely on what i've done. I exclude myself of all liability, including negligence, because if you injure yourself or others, damage your own property or other people's property, I am not liable or accoutnable. This list in not complete and can include other things not mentioned. If you damage your seats, injure yourself, damage your car, injure others, blow up anything, damage any property, act negligently, whatever, I am not liable. The information presented above is just a diary of my install and is not intended to be relied upon

I'm guessing you don't have abs. Ever thought of getting a decent r33 with abs? If you press the brakes and locok them coz you need to stop quick, you don't have to keep it locked and do a mega slide with them locked. As soon as it locks, just release it a tiny bit. Also, if it's got a tiny flat spot, can't you just do a burnout to even it?

Unforunately, that is the only model r33 headlight that has proper hid. Like I said to you before, aftermarket kits look shit, are shit and are worse than halogen globes. For r33, this is the only way.

Guys, can you try and do something? I can't seem to work it out: 1. how do you remove the lumbar support knob on the driver's seat? I tried to pull it, didn't budge. Can any of you have a try? If you push the seat in, there doesnt' seem to be a pin or screw or anything. 2. for the head rest - if you take the headrest off, there are these little black piecces of plastic. how do you remove them?

reason for sale? did you buy 5 of them thinking that you'd get yourself a good price and then resell the other 4?

no cat = flamage

the penalty unit is 110$. It's not difficult to find, except i can't remember myself where it's found. Is it in the Acts interpretation act? I don't ahve my laptop/files with me atm.

nah, that's only 1 point. 100 points goes to the person who gets the seat covers, and tries to install it and: either destroys them makes it look totally shit winges that they are too hard to diy or all of the above. There will be at least one. always is

IMO, don't contact the police. that'll just give them a bigger head. You'll make them think that they actually have a say in it. If there is a place that the skidpan day can be organised, like the equivalent of eastern creek skidpan in sydney, then organise it.

Removing the dump pipe bolts is easy. Seriously, if you're buying shit cheap tools that break, you shouldn't be doing the job.Think about how much it would cost to have it done at the mechanics. Think about all the other work that you might do in the future. My socket + spanners costed me over 1k, but i'm anal. you don't have to spend that mcuh. just a sidchrome or kingchrome set for 200$ will be alright. I mean, if you're using $2 spanners that snap, what happens if you smash your hand into something and cut it? Just spray it with wd40 - it's good enough. then use a spanner you can rely on and apply force. Tehre's no room for sockets/breaker bar down the bottom. Spanner is plenty. Once you've done it, you'll realise how easy it was in retrospect. But seriously, use tools you can trust.

Legal costs may be free mate. At my uni (UTS) they have the law service. where there is a lawyer there that advices you on issues. Basically, every uni usually has one of these. you can basiaclly just walk in. say you're a student. and bob's your uncle. ultimo tafe also has one. etc.

next week is the 4th

no

Parkers - look down in the tiny gap. there is this white thing. It's very small. basically, you turn it. It will be an absolute bitch without removing the washer bottle. Expect possible blood unless if you've got pint size hands. turn it, which will unlock it, then pull it out.

how would running a 20mm spacer be any different to the following scenario: stock wheels are 8" +30 offset. If you run an 8" wheel with a +10 offset, isn't the net effect the same?

IMO, it's not worth it. The idea of these seat covers being that the price is moderately less than a proper leather retrim. If you've gone for the premium package - 630 + 3-400 to install it, then that's 1k. I know it's still less than a leather retrim, but at the end of the day, they'll never be as good as a leather retrim for 2 main reasons: 1. they're plastic. 2. leather retrims sew pockets into the back of the leather, and they refit the metal rods that are in the stock seat covers. They use hog rings all over the seats and velcro such that it actually hugs the contours of the seats. have you noticed in the pics that these covers are just limp? Manwhore, i suppose you might be able to glue it, but it'll mean that the covers can never be changed otherwise the foam will be damaged. I have friends involved in retrimming and they suggested i just do it myself as the outcome will be the same for those reasons mentioned above.

PS: offsets should normally be stamped ontot he back of the wheel. you'll ahve to look carefully because it mgiht be on a sticker or stamped, but it's probably covered in brake dust. Can't you try the wheels on? or are they 5 stud and you havent' done the conversion yet?

+34 offset for an 8" rim is perfect fit for r32/r33. But keep in mind, it's not goign to look fat on an r32/r33 guard. It isn't 'out enough' However, it really depends on the particular car. I'm not sure of the stock offset of the r31 wheels. You really need to find this out first. Hopefully the offset of the front wheels you've got will be matched to the rear ones in typical jap mismatched width style. Hopefully the offset of the fronts will be about + 30 or +28 I would not run spacers on your car especially if drifting. If the reason for the spacers is performance, it won't be noticeable. If it is for looks, sorry, but you're not trying to build a show car are you?

boost guage.

Ports, do you happen to need a strut brace for either of those Zeds? If so, pm me.

Basically, I don't see any problem here. The ebay ad clearly says that it's for rebuild. It's cheap too, it's only $150. Do you really think you'll get a working highflow for 150? Obviously not. You won't be able to do anything to it yourself if it's blown end of story. You can clean it, but that's pointless, because as an example, if you take it to GCG, they sandblast it for you and paint the exhaust housing. It looks like new. So in summary: you will get exactly what was advertised to you. You paid for a blown vg30 turbo, so you will get one.

What killed the turbo though, that is the question. Doubt a knome being sucked into the intake could do that

I wouldn't bother with undoing the stabliser bar if it's a stock one? I've done it so many times on my car it's just not funny. I'm never happy with the suspensions. First time, it was a bitch. I needed a friend. Now, I can do it myself. moving the hub is easy. If you need it moved up, just use the jack and push it slightly. I find I dont' even need the jack. I just use my arm and push/pull it. It's dififcult, but i'm not that weak.