MANWHORE

In theory that is alright if you're changing everything like injectors, but I believe that the de injectors are smaller, so you'll have to factor that into the budget too.

What you said up the top is simply incorrect. How can the mesh break the air up into little particles. Think of the air as a fluid. Imagine if you put a mesh into a flowing stream of water. The water flows around the little pieces of the mesh. A mesh that thin hardly affects flow. Any restriction caused by the mesh is so absolutely minute in the scheme of things. Have you had a look inside the factory flexy pipe on the turbo? that would cause more turbulence than the afm mesh. Hell, silicon pipe joiners would cause more turbulence on the edge ofo the metal pipe than the afm mesh. Edited: further clarification + spelling mistakes.

simplest way - take out the spark plugs. look inside. if you can see anything in there, your engine is most likely gone. plastic or metal, doesnt' matter. That plastic isn't like condom rubber or something. it's very hard heavy duty plastic. think about how strong it is to withstand the high RPM. Basiaclly, it woulda smashed into a powder, probably scored the bores too. Dump the engine oil and run it thorugh coffee paper. you shouldn't have drive your car at all. I woulda turned it straight off. Engine is probably dead now.

Jmac, you are the man. that is exactly what i am trying to solve - that initial nothingness in the pedal. you know what i mean. like the master cylinder brace only does somethign when you press it hard. Same as clutch lines - only when you're putting big pressure into it. But it's that intial bit that annoys me. The actual braking perofmance is pretty good, i can lock up the tyres easy.

Are you joking? or are you serious? That's absolutely ridiculous if it is as you described it.

stock32 - knowign where the filter is is the least of your concerns. Lol When I did mine, the hose had sort of hardened over that bump in the fuel filter line. I don't know how the commpliance people managed to change it without changing the line, but they managed to. I just wasn't game enough to pull it hard, becuase you know what happens when it lets go (blood, skin = nasty). I just slit it with a knife and replaced it. Easy.

I beleive it's those vents up the top of the bonnet. Perhaps someone's played a trick and poured something nasty in?

Those air freshners are crazy. I'd love to buy some, but i reckon it's one of those things that you really have to smell befoer you buy, otherwise i'd have to buy the whole lot. lol

I'm guessing, that if all goes smoothly, it'll be 2 hours. so that'll probably be $160. If you run into complications, like broken bolts, pipe not fitting, and requiring cutting and rewelding, etc, it can end up taking 4-5 hours. For magic perfomrance to fit my magic cat (doing a good job), it took them 2 hours just to line it up, weld flanges, making sure that the catback is aligned, modify stock cat bracket etc.

r33 box will be much better at that power level, provided you buy a good one. I'll elaborate on that in a sec. I've had friends blow their r32 boxes at about 180-190 rwkw. Of course, it depends on how you drive it. After dissasembling the box, you'll notice that compared to an r33 box, everything in there is just smaller and therefore weaker. This is further evident by the fact that the box itself is about half the weight of the r33 box, and about 70% of the size of an r33 box. (People also say that r33s are heavy boats, but at the end of the day, the difference in weight is because of the shit parts in the r32). Anyways, the r33 box is suited to 220 rwkw, as mentioned above, synchros everything are all bigger. But make sure that you buy a decnet box, which will cost you decent money. dont' try and bid every guy down and offer him like $1000 for the box, otherwise, guaranteed, you'll get a worn box, which'll be crap (you wanna be putting something better in than what you've got now).

I believe he's referring to FRP what does FRP stand for? Fibreglass reinforced plastic. It's the same crap. The one that seems to be more resistant to breaking is a type of flexy fibreglass. Most bodykit makers know of this stuff.

I haven't personally done what you have done, but I have replaced numerous suspension components on my car. Furthermore, I have helped other friends with skylines who have smashed into kerbs. What we did, was to just take off the parts that are obviously bent. Other bits may not look damaged, but they might still be slightly out. Try and measure other bits and compare it to the other side, and see if the're the same etc. Generally, the bolts on most of those components are pretty tight, so you'll need a good length breaker bar. other than that, they're all pretty easy to change. Wreckers can be expensive. People have been wrecking r33s recently in the for sale section, so your best bet would be to go back thorugh the for sale pages, and try and find the latest one. They would most liekly still have the bit you need, because those parts aren't exaclty highly sought after. Chris

Hey sid To cut a long story short, my GF joined the forums, and organised the seat covers for me with some other friends for my 21st. God bless her hot little heart. lol Yeah, unfortunately, I'd like to drive it more, but I catch the train to uni and i'm lucky enough to work from home. yummmm.... skyline smell. hehehe. I've got a feeling that the smell that everyone likes is the japanese air freshener that soaks into the seat fabric over time. When I took my seats out of my car to install the covers, I almost died, it smelt so good. lol

My car now smells like plastic because of those vinyl seat covers. I'm running two air fresheners atm, but everytime I go in, it still smells like rubber. I miss the skyline smell. I bought my car with very low mileage, and I only drive it once every two weeks, so it still had that smell.

yeah, the cooler pipes pretty much always have oil in them (sometimes even if you have a catch can too depending on how it's plummed). Mine did. you shoulda seen the colour of the petrol when i used it to clean out the intercooler when I changed it.

not the same

Baron, I've got a question for ya. That 4.8kg chromoly one looks very scary. If you look at the 'weakest' points in between those holes, there isn't a lot of metal there. How strong is it compared to the stock one? I've heard really nasty stories of flywheels falling apart (like benm's one) and actually entering the cabin taking out legs, people, heads, whatever happens to be in its way.

The dealers would be wrong. I've been saying this for ages. People on the forumn have only started realising it after the r34 gtr Mspec came out. There is no such thing as r33 gtst m spec. Jspec also calls it the wrong thing. It's Type-m. It's just like do you call an integra R spec?

I don't have a pic or a link, but I remember seeing sau seat covers before. Sorry I wasn't more help.

I dont' quite agree with what they say about the colours. Like some of them don't seem correct. However, the description of black is quite close to me

What I really want to know is how to bleed the ABS on r33s and r34s. I know how to bleed the other lines, but I haven't yet managed to bleed the ABS unit itself. It doesnt' appear to have the bleed nipples like on the R ugly poo (32) gtrs.

BRace only helps with softness when you press the pedal down. The intial softness is not related to the brace, because the firewall hasn't flexed yet. Also forgot to add, that I have changed the rubber lines. It didn't do anything which means that the old lines were fine. That's interesting about the rotor and pad thickness. My pads are brand new, but the rotors are still the stock ones. How thick are they meant to be new?

Ok, the can is your problem. Also, as you're using a can, I assume you've never sprayed before? to get it glossy, your final coat has to be wet. E.g. your earlier coats might be light so you dont' get runs. But for the final one, to get it glossy, it has to be wet such that it almost runs. I've done a few interior parts with cans, but I wouldn't dare do a bar or exterior panel myself. It'll look shit. My motto has always been that , if I'm going to do something, I do it right. If I can't afford to do it properly, I either don't do it, or save up until I have enough money.

I once had a list of nissan engines that used those ignitors. They're only expensive because they're 'skyline parts'. I picked up a couple before for $15-20, but i've since sold them. I can't quite remember because i've got a bad memoery, but i believe the rb30 ones are the same? Don't quote me on it though. If that is the case, every vl/r31 at your local wreckers will ahve one.

Sir D, you're tall. Lol. I've had a friend sit in my car before. he is 197cm. that guy is a tree lol.