MANWHORE

There was a case I read that was very applicable to this situation. It involved a workshop where the keys were left unsecured in a workshop, there was no alarm etc, and a car was stolen. From memory, negligence on the part of the workshop must be proven. e.g. did they take adequate steps, such as securing the premises etc. Furthermore, they are able to exclude their liability for negligence.

I'm not saying that you're a time waster, or that everyone is. There are plenty of good people on this forum. There have been people that have gotten angry at others for making 'offers' when they made offers to others. Cheers

what about the plugs?

Ok guys, i'm finally on uni exams now, so I actually have time to put this stuff up for sale again.

The thing is, it's easy to winge about dreamers when you're advertising something for sale. However, the thing is, a lot of the people that winge about dreamers are also dreamers themselves when they try and buy something off someone else.

The rb25 is aroudn that weight give or take depending on if it's got oil. The R ugly poo box is about 40 kg or so from memory. That's why it's so weak. Everything in it is smaller.

That's a pretty good job on the part of the thiefs if they managed to get all of the cars out of the workshop without getting caught. Didn't the work shop have any security? e.g. those yellow poles, cameras, alarm etc? If not then......

I don't know how you determined that the ugly poos aren't as common. They sure as hell are common on george street on a sat ngiht. Anyone with 10k can pick up an ugly poo. Even if they are less common, that's just because half of the ugly poos (32) with their vl looking exterior and vn looking interior (do your headlight and wiper knobs look familiar) have broken down or been written off. The old vw beetles aren't very common. does that make it a good car Oh ok, so the ugly poo drove better? not half of the ones that i've driven with their busted arse old suspensions and worn bushes (most of the old ones need work done).

spray paint

kinks, what I was saying for you, is that the hid kit is not a good idea. bulbs are a top idea. if you're worried about life, get the plus 30s, still bright, but last a lot longer than the plus 50s. but, you're meant to change bulbs every 12 months anyways, so even if the plus 50s blow once a year, it's fine (bulbs lose brightness). relay mod doeosn't detract from bulb life much. It will give you a lot more light though. stock wiring gives the bulbs about 11 ish volts. relayed, they can get 13.8 volts which is worth about 50% more light. in regards to installing a 4100 kelvin hid kit, that won't help anything. the problem is in the optics, not the colour. Look at the pictures from that link posted above.

Well, i've got the lights now. I'm just trying to get a gtr bonnet + hinges etc. I don't think i'll even need to change the front bar (it might be out of alignment slightly. What i'll probably do, is just wait until i have an acco (touch wood), then it can be done for no cost

Each to their own CCCP. Xizor likes them. I like the colour too, that's why i'm fitting sIII gtr lights to my car (not a straight fit on, needs many parts to be changed e.g. bonnet, grill etc. Kinks, hid is definitely not a good idea. The plus 50 bulbs do run an overpowered filament, so they don't last as long as say a standard bulb. The plus 30s last a lot longer because they don't overpower the filament as much. If you think about it though, the bulbs still last about a year ish. That's not bad. you're meant to change your bulbs once a year anyways (light output deminishes over time).

probably not the best idea. e.g. when you have wheels with different offsets, they don'nt just grind down the centre bit. The shape of the spokes etc are actually different.

It's not that r ugly poo gtrs are no good to take onto the track. E.g. if you just take a stock one out onto the track, many people have done so and have had no issues at all. same deal with an r33 gtst. The issue is, if you have a really quick car, runnign semis etc and hitting really high Gs, then the car will have issues. gtsts can have the same problem. keep in mind that most ugly poo gtrs are old and half busted anyways (the cheap ones), so it may actually be a combination of things such as worn oil pump, blocked galleries etc.

Only if you manage to get the pump cradle. The problem with the gtr pumps is that you're replacing an old pump with another old one. Unless if you get one off a car with very low genuine kays, it's not worth it. A pump is verey important. If the pump dies suddenly when you're wot, you'll kill the motor. If it reduces in flow over time, it can also make the motor run lean for a period of time and also kill it. Keep in mind, that the reason why we're upgrading pumps is because we want to put out more power. We're going to need more fuel flow than stock becuase of the extra power, so if it dies, it'll be more dnagerous. A new gtr pump wouldl be an excellent choice, but from nissan, the price is similar to the nismo/tomei pump.

Xizor wants a colour which is significantly blue. I don't think that the crystal visions are blue enough for what he wants. The diamond visions are the blueness that he wants, but the price is just ridicualous. All of the xenon filled bulbs overpower the filament. The result is more efficient halogen cycling, but as a result, bulb life is substantially lower. Ordinary halogen bulbs basically never blow (reads ages and ages and ages. E.g. how often do your parents car's bulbs blow? the 180$ price tag on the philips diamond vision is simply not worth it when it's just going to blow in a month anyways. Rob likes the look of the mtecs, so for the price, he might as well buy those. you can buy 4 sets before you can get a set of diamond visions, so even if they blow that quick, they'll still last 4 times as long.

Kezza, I sent you a pm - your bsb needs to be 6 numbers - money wouldn't send.

Worst comes to worst, if you need to get into the boot to fix the lock, you can remove the back seat, then remoev the boot inspection panel. There is a lot of stuff in the way, but that can be unbolted from the cabin and moved. you might not be able to crawl through the hole, but a small kid can. The hole is sharp though.

Dark, that article is spot on the money correct. I could not have said it better myself. Daniel Sterns lighting, as well as hidplanet etc all say the same thing. PS: I xixor, I know exactly what you mean about the falcons being brighter. I happen to have an au falcon, and that headlight is the brightest reflector I have ever seen. It all comes down to design of the reflector/projector unit. Keep in mind, that technology advances. R32s probably have the worst headlights out of any car in the world. They have so little light that everyone winges about them. r33s have improved quite a lot over the r32s. they put out probably 50-60% more light than the r ugly poo lights. but then, au falcons are 2000 models, whereas, the r33 first came out in 1993, so that's 7 years there.

xixor, it's chris (97 gtst type m). I've changed my name. Mate, like I was tellign you before, i've done a lot of experimentation on this, and I thought i'd save you the trouble and money. I'm sorta like you. I am never happy until I get something. I'd prefer to buy something and find out that it's shit than to not buy and never know. I am located in sydney, and I can probably arrange a demonstration for you sometime to show you the difference between oem reflector hid and my car's hid (it's shit, waste of money piece of crap). The only issue is that i'm always away for business, or uni commitments etc. iv'e pmed you my number, and if you have any questions, feel free to call me. I'm good with everything from retrofitting oem hid, maximising halogen light output through relay mod, and what are the best bulbs etc.

i don't think you would have busted the diff by just driving 10 km. I'd imagine that since you noticed it driving weird, you would have been going slow? If so, the diff would probably be ok (since it tries to match speeds of the wheels, if 1 wheel is going 30km/h, and the other is going 29, that's not as bad as one going 150 and the other going 130).

People have mixed theories about adding the nulon g70. Personally, I have used the nulon engine oil additive, and it had no adverse effects. I don't use it anymore, because I just don't see myself keeping this engine for 250+ks, so i'll save my money there, but as I said, I have used it about 5 times, without any problems. I have used the g70 box treatment, and I didn't notice any difference in notchiness.

agreed, wax and grease remover seems to have the right 'strength' to remove the gluey stuff, yet it isn't as strong as turps. Be careful when you're using it though, i've used it on plastic before, and I rubbed it for ages, and the plastic lost colour.

140 Including postage to your door australia wide.

yeah, if you want something that looks like a vl commodore with an interior that looks like a vn commo (do the headlight and wiper switches look familiar?).