RB30-POWER

If the voltage is maxed out it sure does. Time for the Z32 item.

The clutch will bolt up ok they are the same size. But the series 1/2 boxes are push/pull type. Don't think you can just change the slave cylinder over, so i would try to get the correct slave with the box so you can just bolt your clutch lines straight to it.

The RB25 pump has one of the holes in a slightly different location to the RB30 which means it won't bolt up. The RB20 is the same as RB30 though. Some aftermarket pumps now have a wide slot to suit either bolt hole position, so it suits either RB motor, but not many that I have seen.

Where did i bring closed loop into what i was saying. I was talking about the open loop mapping and the air flow meter. Closed loop has got nothing to do with tuning the ECU.

Look at the engine number on the block is the easiest way. Look at the crossover pipe they have slightly different plumbing. The RB20 doesn't have the VCT solonoid sticking out at the front. The plenum is different, the rb20 runner 5 & 6 are different to the RB25, this is to clear the r32 brake booster. Thats a few ways of telling off the top of my head.

The coil has 3 wires. One will have +12V when the ignition is on, one will have -12V all the time. and the third is the ignitor which is wired to the ecu/ignitor, depending on what coils you have. Series 1 coils have an external ignitor pack, while Series 2 have it build in directly in the coil. Pin1 is the trigger from the ECU/ignitor Pin2 on the coil is Earth -12V all times Pin3 is +12V from a switched ignition source. Hope that helps some.

Are you saying you have a comprehensive manual in english?

Where's SK, im sure he uses the PowerFC boost control system? He would know better than anyone the workings/capabilities of it...

Im sure whiteline suspension would sell some upgraded bushes for the R33. Check their website maybe. http://www.whiteline.com.au/

Is it an R33 or R32. R32 is cable driven. R33 is electric. If its electric probally a dry solder joint or cracked tracking on the back of the cluster. If its mechanical i would say the plastic teeth are crapped and will need repair by instrument specialist.

lol, some dodgy ****s out there isn't there.... its amazing what sort of dodgy stuff you find in s/hand cars.

I would be checking the following. 1. Any vacuum leaks in piping/plumbing/emmision hoses etc. 2. No atmo venting BOV valve, is it set right (better still fit original item) 3. Disconnect the AAC valve connector and make sure the base idle is set correctly. 4. Make sure the idle contact on the TPS sensor is working as it should. 5. Check to make sure the idle voltage on the other TPS is measuring <0.5V at idle. Im sure it will be one of the above. It won't just stall for no reason...

mad vids. bloody drifters......

Just use the RB25 power fc (its cheaper), 25de loom and all 25de sensors, injectors etc etc. The only difference with the de/det loom is the absense of the boost control solonoid wire and the FPCM wiring in the 25de loom (Which none of this crap is needed anyway) All knock sensors and stuff are on the 25de already.

You would tune your engine maps right up to your maximum boost level. (maximum airflow) And then anywhere in between manifold vacuum and maximum boost pressure it will add fuel according to the engine air flow at that point as measured from the air flow meter. At lower boost there is less airflow obviously, so the AFM measures this and adds fuel for the smaller amount of air flow. If you run high boost it will measure more air flow and add more fuel. Its really that simple, the principle anyway...

Thats wrong. It will run fine. More boost measures more air flow through the air flow meter. So it will add fuel accordingly. If you are running less boost it will only add fuel for that amount of engine air flow. The air flow meter doesn't care what boost it is, it just adds fuel according to the air the motor uses.

When you press the clutch in, the clutch fork presses the thrust/clutch bearing into the clutch pressure plate fingers and the two parts of the bearings spin. When you release the clutch the fork/bearing slide away from the fingers and the bearing spins as a complete assembly with the box input shaft. So it can't make any noise obviously. If you press in the clutch in and its noisy then the clutch bearing would be shot, as the bearing will be spinning anytime the clutch is pressed to the floor. If it isn't noisy it is fine.

The thrust/throw out bearing for the clutch only spins when the clutch is pressed in to the floor. Yet you said the noise goes away when you step on the clutch? Therfore it isn't the throwout/clutch bearing. This is why you shouldn't sit at lights holding the clutch in as you wear the bearing out unnecessarily. It will be one of two things. One, its as simple as the input shaft bearing being stuffed. (Needs replacment) Two, the hard casing has worn off the input shaft and main cluster gear in the box meaning all these parts will need replacing, therfore its cheaper to replace box altogether. To rebuild it is going to cost some money. You would be better off to wait till it goes, then just replace it with another. RB20 boxes aren't worth much these days.

Yeah, I would agree with that completely, thats what should have been said in the first place by the other users.

Can you explain how it shits all over the MX7 in technical terms, or are you just talking crap?

Did you ever see this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...34&page=3&pp=25 3 pages worth... may or may not be relevant.

lol, Nah i just think you are ignorant and have no idea if you think a HSV is that slow compared to a gtst with a fully sick pod filter sucking hot air. (Almost all i see)

Really he is lucky no one was killed. If that happened he would be in jail, no doubt.

LOL, if you think HSV's are slow, you should wake up. Typical comment from a skyline driver i guess. Think skylines are the fasteset thing around

The beauty of a proper oring setup is you can use a standard gasket but still have a reliable motor with big power. Standard Nissan gaskets are way more reliable at sealing then the metal/copper ones are, on a street motor especially that is warming up and cooling down almost everyday.