SLY33

i would say with the USED R34 GTR you have very little chance of even needing a warranty! compared to the holden, drive it out the showroom and it starts dropping it guts on the drive home!! my nearly 10year old 33 has not even had the need for a warranty situation! Look at even older r32's! In "most cases" the worst that will need attention is a new timing belt and maybe if your unlucky a pricey part like a coil pack or something! -thats if your unlucky! just shows what we all know - jap build quality and engineering is easily 10years more advanced than the local stuff. -im not a holden hater, i love the monaro shape and the engines.. pity the diffs cant cope with extra power! If i remember an HPI article, LS1 EDIT car had a brand new hydratrak or whatever they use, and it was openwheeling majorly! You just cant have that sort of crap on a BIG power car. Ahh the good old R200. STOCK STANDARD VISCOUS LSD in a 9sec car! (TRY09s) Bloody incredible engineering to get that much strength out of a diff that size, when compared to the heavy old ford 9inch. (the subzero car may have changed internals by now, but it did run the std diff.

can you confirm the model of those rims? I cant find any Ryver rims from Work that look anything like those. they look like these sparcos! Not saying they arent work rims, but have you got any pics with a work stamp on them or anything?

awesome! she's a bit of a sleeper eh!

this just has to be bumped :(

gees a5h, i get real freaked when ppl tailgate me, not just because of fear of carjacking, my initial thought is "Your putting my car in a rear end collision situation you BASTARD!" You just want to stop and get out and kick their asses, but naturally you cant do that as usually your outnumbered. If i tap brakes and slow down and they still dont fall back or overtake, then the blood boils......

and yeah agree with the older commodore/bogan wankers. The newer model "better-off" guys arent so bad There should be a cut off. Id say nowdays its definitly the VN-VP's that are the worst! VR-VS owners so-so... after that they get better. haha

enrico, the 6sec plus 0-100 quoted in the original link was on GRAVEL!!!! that car is going to be awesome. as said, throw on a blower and a hi stall and it'll be neck and neck with GTRs. What sucks is the smugness that the drivers of these will have on their faces everytime they hose us jap ricey GTSt RWDers off the line 0-100!!!!

your lucky supra man! i advertised a brand new HKS gear as you are, for exactly the same price and all i got was stupid threads suggesting places to get them cheaper! bloody raggers

they do look very nice. Do you have bathroom scales? could you tell me how much a rim weighs? appreciated.

mine with stock turbo on RPM dyno made 199rwkw. I didnt think it reads high?

im also interested in rwkw of the 2835R? proven output at the wheels is...?? at what boost?

standard 33 wont do 160rwkw, thats with at least exhaust. In which case your car is making excellent power for those mods!

jeez NickR33, INASNT is your mate?! you make me waste my time when you could just phone him up !!!!

yeah the guys are spot on. My ROCK HARD teins make bagging up or tail out too easy. Waiting for softer springs.

rear wheel kw of each mod....! ok lets see. Im tired and should be in bed, But uni is on strike tomorrow so ill take time to answer haha boner -yes i forgot about the ol air intake! i guess they are often present on 90% of skylines anyway! And good point about the partition. Its been suggested that putting a pod filter with no partition is a waste of time. OK zymotic lets go..... as im tired dont take my power figures to be spot on, may be a bit general but should give you an idea. Stock 33 manual, i dunno 130-40rwkw??!! With a 3inch turbo back exhaust and bleed valve (and some sort of pod filter!) as mentioned above will give you ~160rwkw . The exhaust you can get second hand for prob around a grand for a nice stainless jap system. The bleed valve will only cost you a hundred bucks (bit more if you want a fancy looking gated one maybe), fitting is simple, but if you cant do it it wont cost much to get done. Air filter and adapter: apparently the cheap simota filters are not bad, with adapter $200ish at a guess? And they are prob your best bang for buck mods id say. (+20/25rwkw) so what have we: grand exhaust, 100 bleed, 200 filter etc. say for under $1500 for 160rwkw maybe a bit more power, depending on what dump you get. Mine made 160rwkw with the factory cast dump. if your VERY budget conscious, dont bother with an aftermarket blow off this early on. STD one is fine. 160rwkw doesnt sound like much nowadays with all these 300rwkw beasts around, but its enough to have fun and you can drive it real hard without getting into too much trouble! I would guestimate easy 0-100's in the sub 6 second zone, so your doing ok! Two schools of thought for next mods. Some workshops would go your cooler. I got my hybrid 600x300x90 fitted for $1700 with polished stainless piping. which yielded around 175rwkw (+15rwkw). So already your spending more, to get less of an increase, but thats how it goes! Others would say go straight for the power FC and get high 180'sat the wheels. FC fitted and tuned (varies tuner to tuner obviously) if say like me 2nd hand with controller for 1400, 500 for tuning, $1900 to go from 160 to 180+rwkw. I suppose thats the best bang for buck for stage 2, but im personally not keen on the idea of my engine breathing all that hot air due to the std cooler! PLus it will shorten turbo life coz it has to work harder with the restrictive std cooler. Your fuel pump will be about at its reliable limit now, get a bosch motorsports or similar one (i think my 044 was around 400-500? cant rememebr, then theres fitting, lets say for example only 600fitted), with your FC AND FMIC for the 200rwkw. You should be doing easy 0-100 in 5 seconds now. OKAY: INITIAL MODS for 20/25rwkw increase ~$1500 from there: PFC+tune for 20/25rwkw increase ~$1900 OR if do FMIC first for ~15 "maybe" 20rwkw ~$1700 combine them together with your fuel Pump for thw 200rwkw, If going from the exh/filter/bleed stage your paying ~4grand for 40rwkw's. (ie 160-200) i think thats about right, im F'in tired now! Theres heaps of variables like BRAND, LABOUR costs etc, and then theres sh*t liike cam gears and light flywheels if you want to get into it. if any of the above is wrong ill try correct it when im more awake! hope that helps coz it took me like 20 mins to write!! cheers guys.

Looks awesome, great buy! But i also disagree that is to say that i agree with INASNT :uh-huh: (I have a bitsa-kit: Part GTR Part 400R part no-name wing! Was just gonna put rear pods, i even bought em! but then decided that PHATNESS the 400R rear gives was worth the dollars. -anyone after GTR skirts and pods?

best thing is to go into a panel shop and they all have a huge wall of colour chips that you can flick thru. its wicked fun choosing a colour for your car, but just try deciding on one! i pulled my hair out over what to paint it! so many colours look good. there is no BEST colour, but thats what you want!

usually about 15 rwkw can be picked up from adding a fmic to a 33 with a filter zorst and boost increase. give or take. As mentioned it is a mandatory support system if your serious.

if you want a full package, suspension wise, you cant go past a Whiteline "Works" package. That should cover every aspect of the cars suspension and give you an awesome improvement. Their kits are track tested and proven and havent heard a bad thing about them. I think exhaust type and brand are irrelevant. Stainless or mild steel in the same diameter (usually go a full 3inch system) will just differ slightly in sound. As for mufflers, there are some cheap but good stuff around such as 3A racing that look good and flow well. Bottom line, start with a good dump and down pipe, highflow cat and free flowing muffler. You can pick up nice Jap systems complete bolt up jobs 2nd hand. Most jap imports or parts places offer these. Boost controllers, many to choose, ranging from a simple Electronic Boost controllers to Super-doopa EBC's that do all sorts of sh*t. Blitz spec-S EBC are apparently great for ease of use great boost control. You wont go wrong with any brand name jap EBC. Running 10-12psi you should have at least a healthy 160rwkw. That was enough to kill my std clutch. But it should be fine depending how you drive. Upgrade that when it goes and then get an FMIC, then an ECU like an Apexi power FC. With an upgrade fuel pump youll have 200+rwkw and be moving along pretty quick! Get used to the power each new mod brings rather than do it all at once, that way youll probably enjoy it more and get to know the car! Good luck and have fun!

whats going on? you mean whats he done? opened them up and painted surrounds.

Jimx! your 044 is quiet!? maybe something is worng with mine. When in summer and its hot, the thing WHINES! But the pump is brand new! anyone else got an 044?

if your painting it, dont even think about white!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (of course white looks great tho) but.. if your spending the dough, get a custom colour and stand out from all the other factory colours!

exactly, laugh, thats what i do especially when the thing's not even remotely quick. You'll get bum hoons in shit boxes going around saying "man those GTRs are slow! i just wasted a grey one "UR DUST" in my gemini!" fair enough if the cars a weapon (RNS11Z), but if its a slug it doesnt deserve the gtr badge!

i dont consider 1500kg "DAMN" heavy, actually its pretty light compared to a lot of stuff coming out at the moment. 300zx's are around 1500kg and i dont really see them being held back by it. -would you not call over 400rwkw huge power? -and the thing has run low 11's! i'd call that pretty well "up for dragging"

nah, the car is no longer that colour or wearing those wheels! its got 19in chrome rims now.