Butters

I got the ARC M079 due to the space constraint. Been running mint for the last 3 years. Plazmaman also seems like a really solid choice but not used myself. Hunt around for a better price but this is what I have - https://www.rhdjapan.com/arc-brazing-intercooler-smic-m079-bnr32.html

Maybe been mentioned but I would have thought with a straight gate you would have to run both ports. As you don't have the natural pressure to push it open. I just noticed in the pic you are only running the top port, which will keep it closed but the bottom port should push it open ?

Let me know if this isn't good enough

How does it sound with the AES open ? Like a full open exhaust or a bit more half and half ?

@Lithium any chance of adding the turbosmart 7275 ? https://830533.app.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=29183737&c=830533&h=4jX7ZZ_NUC9RHMz71QefkkIJU00LZo05Gi3wLi63DizgT3ZD&_xt=.pdf Sorry if its on there already and I am blind ....

Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them. Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+). Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too. The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look. Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too. This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done. RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car. People now even making billet versions of both.

Yer I did look at that, looks heaps better. I couldn't see it had a divided T4 rear option and likely land $5.5-$6k aud. The G40 is on sale at the moment for $4k flat.

@Lithium looking for a turbo for my Rb30. Want to make sure I understand this correctly. If I want to stay 40psi or under my best choice of these 3 is actually the smaller G40-1150 ?

hrmmm , not mine , easter plans to pull engine not happening

Given you already have the engine cross member to match and likely gearbox mount to. The SR20 has a head start on the RB in this case. They handle GREAT with an SR20, lots of fun. One I did back in the day

Realised I never posted this , also I never got a price

https://www.nengun.com/hks/valcon-rb26-v-cam-system no controller but most will use ECU to control anyhow

Very happy with mine and I think you will be hard pressed to find someone that isn't happy after installing. Is it the best value for money vs other mods (eg 2.8 stroker) hard to say. If you are building an all out power motor above 1000hp+++, it's probably not for you as you will want bigger cams.

Tried them, they leaked. I also foolishly bought some random rubber ones that leaked too. Genuine and not looked back. As always though sample size of one, and I could have made a mistake installing them.

these guys recommended to me and supplied custom 4 inch mufflers, couldn't be happier. They will spec a muffler to your preferred level of sound and know RB's well. https://spmufflers.com.au/

I didn't like the sound of mine, much happier once it was out. Lost it's RB note. Don't judge just my opinion though, be good to hear from others.

I had a 3inch varex mid muffler with a rear cannon. It was quieter closed but it wasn't enough to pass a DB test which are very strict. Still needed a silencer as well. So they do work but they are also not magic.

Keen to see the turbosmart data, to date I've only seen negative things in terms of response for them. Very small sample size though. Hawkins is a big advocate in his videos of the larger rear housings. I managed to make similar power with a lower spec motor on the smaller .8 rear, keeping decentish spool. The people he works with now are big power cars compared to mine though, mine really is setup to drive around and enjoy. I don't have any back pressure monitoring though, so couldn't say if its good or bad on my car, just that it does what I want it to do. Future I want a higher compression more cubes motor to give a bit more bottom end and hopefully the new g35-1150 gets me to the 850 rear comfortably. But maybe I won't due to exhaust back pressure.

It's funny , you look at the 1050 and see horror and I see win, 90 @ 20psi for a 68mm wheels seems great to me. But I don't know crap about this stuff. Happy to hear why you'd make another choice, if you can dumb it down for me What I do know is my Garrett's have been insane levels of reliable whilst others have had to have precision and xona rebuilt and I use mine WAY WAY more then they do. I have a GT3582R from 2005 that is still going rock solid. My G35 hasn't missed a beat either and I was one of the first to get one, it gets a lot of use too.

I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ? https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf

Can recommend the Frenchys kit, been using it 2 years now with no issue, very happy with it. Only thing for me was upgrading the thermo fan but I am super fussy on cooling. Also interested in electric AC, partly for boot mount to have a clean bay and partly would love the idea of cooling off the car before i get in. The battery setup to do that might be tricky / expensive though. Found this an interesting watch.

Here is as close as we got to a direct comparison(3 vs 4inch exhaust), a tickle more boost, which I am sure was in part due to the exhaust. Made 790 on more boost.

Nope, still smaller rear, put on the 4inch exhaust and picked up power everywhere, ended up just shy of 800rwhp. Didn't seem to be hitting any walls either, so perhaps could have pushed for more but all maybes and the fish that got away etc etc.

Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition. Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.

I'm not up to date on the latest, but for basic modifications like pod filter, lower springs etc you can get a modification permit at the time of inspection. For more serious modifications you will need engineering. Intercoolers used to fall into the mod permit rule but its been a long while since i looked it up. Either way you will be able to get it registered, just a case of $300 vs $3k .