Butters

Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox !

Group dedicated to people who have had failures and poor outcomes. Good dozen posts so far. Probably the worst two examples And this one apparently damaged a sequential and engine block(40k+ damage)

Kinda glad I never got to this .. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1483859159195077

Thanks mate, thought you might know the answer.

Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo. Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?

I know people cry at the price of the Getrag 12-14k for a conversion now, but it really is a nice mid point. Not going to get change from 10k on a gearset installed. $30k++ for sequential. I know you run the risk of a damaged used one and parts are hard to get but as a street car gearbox its really hard to beat. If you enjoy a more traditional manual, its the choice no question.

I got the ARC M079 due to the space constraint. Been running mint for the last 3 years. Plazmaman also seems like a really solid choice but not used myself. Hunt around for a better price but this is what I have - https://www.rhdjapan.com/arc-brazing-intercooler-smic-m079-bnr32.html

Maybe been mentioned but I would have thought with a straight gate you would have to run both ports. As you don't have the natural pressure to push it open. I just noticed in the pic you are only running the top port, which will keep it closed but the bottom port should push it open ?

Let me know if this isn't good enough

How does it sound with the AES open ? Like a full open exhaust or a bit more half and half ?

@Lithium any chance of adding the turbosmart 7275 ? https://830533.app.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=29183737&c=830533&h=4jX7ZZ_NUC9RHMz71QefkkIJU00LZo05Gi3wLi63DizgT3ZD&_xt=.pdf Sorry if its on there already and I am blind ....

Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them. Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+). Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too. The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look. Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too. This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done. RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car. People now even making billet versions of both.

Yer I did look at that, looks heaps better. I couldn't see it had a divided T4 rear option and likely land $5.5-$6k aud. The G40 is on sale at the moment for $4k flat.

@Lithium looking for a turbo for my Rb30. Want to make sure I understand this correctly. If I want to stay 40psi or under my best choice of these 3 is actually the smaller G40-1150 ?

hrmmm , not mine , easter plans to pull engine not happening

Given you already have the engine cross member to match and likely gearbox mount to. The SR20 has a head start on the RB in this case. They handle GREAT with an SR20, lots of fun. One I did back in the day

Realised I never posted this , also I never got a price

https://www.nengun.com/hks/valcon-rb26-v-cam-system no controller but most will use ECU to control anyhow

Very happy with mine and I think you will be hard pressed to find someone that isn't happy after installing. Is it the best value for money vs other mods (eg 2.8 stroker) hard to say. If you are building an all out power motor above 1000hp+++, it's probably not for you as you will want bigger cams.

Tried them, they leaked. I also foolishly bought some random rubber ones that leaked too. Genuine and not looked back. As always though sample size of one, and I could have made a mistake installing them.

these guys recommended to me and supplied custom 4 inch mufflers, couldn't be happier. They will spec a muffler to your preferred level of sound and know RB's well. https://spmufflers.com.au/

I didn't like the sound of mine, much happier once it was out. Lost it's RB note. Don't judge just my opinion though, be good to hear from others.

I had a 3inch varex mid muffler with a rear cannon. It was quieter closed but it wasn't enough to pass a DB test which are very strict. Still needed a silencer as well. So they do work but they are also not magic.

Keen to see the turbosmart data, to date I've only seen negative things in terms of response for them. Very small sample size though. Hawkins is a big advocate in his videos of the larger rear housings. I managed to make similar power with a lower spec motor on the smaller .8 rear, keeping decentish spool. The people he works with now are big power cars compared to mine though, mine really is setup to drive around and enjoy. I don't have any back pressure monitoring though, so couldn't say if its good or bad on my car, just that it does what I want it to do. Future I want a higher compression more cubes motor to give a bit more bottom end and hopefully the new g35-1150 gets me to the 850 rear comfortably. But maybe I won't due to exhaust back pressure.

It's funny , you look at the 1050 and see horror and I see win, 90 @ 20psi for a 68mm wheels seems great to me. But I don't know crap about this stuff. Happy to hear why you'd make another choice, if you can dumb it down for me What I do know is my Garrett's have been insane levels of reliable whilst others have had to have precision and xona rebuilt and I use mine WAY WAY more then they do. I have a GT3582R from 2005 that is still going rock solid. My G35 hasn't missed a beat either and I was one of the first to get one, it gets a lot of use too.