Butters

Big claims here. Any links up on the website ?

If your HP goal is reasonable and you are not drifting. Buy a new R34 box. If the above is not true, buy a wrecked R33 box and put a gearset in it. CD09 are not as strong as you think and the cost of / mess around of the conversion puts you in gearset territory. Also the deal above is awesome,, get that

Guess I should be hunting down one of these big ol ford units then for max flow .... I've had fresh gas in mine and it was never as cold as it is now . The compressor could have been trash though, like I said I am one example with a bunch of unknowns.

I installed it all myself, It was really easy to install. I got a professional to do the degas/gas.

I got the full kit. The compressor as above is much smaller and lighter. Also quieter. Bracket is visually mint and much lighter. The dryer and heat exchanger(rad) are one unit. Also smaller and lighter. Much more room for an oil cooler. The fan I got was a bit Meh and I might change it. And above all else it is more efficient, tested a good 3-4 degree's cooler than the old system, which is a lot. Disclaimer though - It wasn't a back to back test given different days. It really does feel colder though(always). And this example is in my car with that crusty looking old compressor, not new vs new

Not yet, likely be a xmas install

I actually think its really good value for everything brand new plus the conversion work all done. Just its more than buying just a compressor. The billet bracket is a work of art. This pick alone, tells you how many decades you are moving forward

If you really want good AC consider the frenchies kit. All modern gear, works much better and is lighter. But it is $$$$$$

You can imagine the combo of non synth + neglect to change = some of the horror motors that are caked in oil sludge.

Ross Balancers seem fine now. Consider speaking to ignite 5.0 for the trigger kit though. They don't list the kits on the site but will supply them. I run two RB's, one a Ross 36-2 and an Ati with custom trigger wheel 36-2, both with ignite 5.0 triggers. So much better than other kits around. No cutting oil pump housings, no issues with sync or fine tolerance clearances. Just bloody works and has done for over 3 years. With 36-2 and a good ecu too, once you have start sync, the cam trigger is no longer used.

Down the rabbit hole i go ..... this is tempting https://www.grannasracing.com/products/tilton-v160-adjustable-height-hydraulic-release-bearing-supra-r34-gt-r?_pos=6&_sid=de1a996fd&_ss=r

Just some day one info. It is heavy, the flywheel being built in makes for a solid setup. Will try and weigh with a flywheel to compare to a direct clutch or nismo twin. Also the advertised torque is peak, which is not unsurprising and explains my previous conversations. So real torque is about 1000 FT/lB, plenty for a 1000hp GTR. Considering mine is making 600ft/lb wheels, 650-80 ish fly(?) lots of room for more power

So it arrived today, very fancy box, swag and it sits a in zip up bag. Lets hope the marketing matches the performance.

this seems aligned to our experiences

Ordered myself a gooloo , so far so good. $180 - https://gooloo.com.au/products/gt4000s?variant=44378290651382

It's really REALLY quite for a 4inch and no drone. SP will make a smaller set of mufflers if you are looking for a bit more noise.

Recently made the switch from a 3inch to 4inch SP Muffler setup. Very happy with the result, more power and much better low down response. The SP gear is high quality and they are a joy to deal with, they made me custom spec mufflers for my random setup. I also wanted it quite and they did a great job of that. My only complaint is they are a heavy unit. Can't say what a 3.5 inch would have done but no regrets going the larger option. https://www.instagram.com/reel/CzV4rhxv4tG/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

I am wondering how much the plastic hat plays into this. Both of mine melted more opposite the wire crimp. Tried the efihardware ones , double washers , better eye terminals. The seat of the plastic ring inside the metal hole is very thin 1mm or so and you are putting through a threaded bolt, which can cut the plastic, won't take much for some conductivity to occur in a metal fuel hat that is earthed. Amp draw of pump is going to be a variable here too. many things that impact that.

I've had a range of rear diff centres - open, viscous, helical, mechanical, welded, etc. I can't go past a refreshed factory 32 gtr centre for consistent lock and street driving. The next step up for me would be the nismo 1.5 way , which likely suits you better as track sounds like the focus. Will chatter in carparks but its not the worst. I have never tried a quaife rear diff, an option I've looked at before and might be one for you ..... Currently playing with an S15 centre at the moment and I hate it. The transition from single wheel spin either side is just weird.

Melted into the plastic, example one of the two, had washer either side.

From personal experience, spend the extra and get a frenchies hat with the better connector. I've melted those exact terminals twice before upgrading the hat with a proper connector. https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/collections/fuel-system-kits/products/copy-of-200sx-s14-s15-r33-r34-twin-pump-in-tank-fuel-system-kit I know its a big step up $$ wise but it will properly solve your issue and give you great peace of mind. If budget is really stretched then consider this ??(not used myself nor know it will work in your application though) https://aftermarketindustries.com.au/fuel-pumps-accessories/fuel-pump-power-bulkhead-terminal/ As an aside run 460s at 12v for over 7 years in e85 no PWM.

From Uniclutch "For the flywheels, both the R32 and R34 GTR are very similar and share the same UniClutch fitment kit so you can purchase whichever you like. Just be aware that you would set it up according to the flywheel you buy. If using an R32 GTR flywheel, setup the UniClutch like an R32 GTR. Yes, you will need a pull-to-push conversion. We are working on a pull type UniClutch, however, this is expected near the end of the year. The OS Giken stuff works great." Trying to decide between these two flywheels - https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-lightweight-flywheel-for-sports-clutch-kit-bnr34.html https://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-lightweight-flywheel-for-sports-clutch-kit-bnr32-bcnr33-r32-r33-a31-wgnc34.html Any others I should be looking at ? ...

Track version is now out for the GTR. Got this when i asked about track version still having RDC, which is good news. "All UniClutch’s have silent shift - even the track version. So never any chatter . Track has Quad drive noise dampening which has less angularity than dual drive RDC, but it’s stronger, and will still dampen noise in a Petrol vehicle without a dual mass flywheel . Would be a little noisier in a diesel if the DMF has been swapped out. But that is usually 4x4s and there is a 4Terrain UniClutch tuned for that type of vehicle - ie a Patrol. Still no detail on which flywheel to use with the BNR34 nor a recommended pull to push conversion.

Ignore, still looking for the correct picture.