CEF11E

Hi supadan, I will take them I will PM you.

Thanks Mr Italy, I will be doing if it is definatly the coilpacks, but I need to make sure it is them first. so I was going to buy a few stockers and see if the car would run. At the moment as soon as it warms up it will not rev over 2500 rpm without missing completly.

Hey act dudes. Had my car dynoed recently and wound up the boost on the new turbo to 17psi. everything was fine till it started to miss. in short, I need some coilpacks wether you have 1 or 6 I am interested. have $$$

Cheers Andrew. It will provide enough flow for 160rwkw. and it will be ultra punchy. it is a ball bearing turbo and all parts are in excellent condition. you can run up to 14psi. you could mod it but if 160 is not enough honestly you are better off going a bigger turbo to start with, but if you really wanted you can get the compressor cover bored out or get one from an rb25 turbo (direct fit) and put a larger comp wheel, rb25 or even to4E V trim. but you will be getting awful close to surge with this wheel but the bearings and shaft/wheel are in excellent condition and at $150 you can't loose Cheers mate.

Thanks Cubes. Are you going to get one of these turbos you haven't still got the stock RB20 turbo on your RB30 have you?

look for one of my old threads called I found a good cheap boost controller for $22. it is in the forcen induction section and there are about 100 pages of info on it the guys name is Mark and his email address is on the first few pages. Cheers I am working thru my spark issue and turns out I was wrong about the plugs I was using. I had a set of NGK BPR5EIX-11 plugs!!! supprised it didnt miss at 10 psi! I have just bought the wrong plugs by accident... BCPR6EY-11 Do'H! The plug height is shorter than the BCPR6ES. they are in the car untill the weekwnd when I will get the bloody correct plugs this time gapped to 0.8.

pics in first post of thread comes with Turbocharger Wastegare Actuator Turbo Elbow Water line banjo bolts Turbo elbow gasket The oil line will bolt straight up to this turbo The injectors are in excellent condition and were running perfectly on my car. I can also have them ultrasonic cleaned for free as I have an ultrasonic cleaner normally getting them cleaned cost $100. take the lot for $250 delivered. cheers!

Hi Andrew, no probs will get some pics for you tonight. I will post them for you for free if you buy turbo + injectors.

I have just done some upgrades and have the following for sale 1. RB20DET turbocharger 110,000 k's no shaft play good condition was running on my car with no problems. Comes with wastegate and elbow $150 2. Oil line to suit RB20/25 turbo. perfect if you need to mod your lines. $30 I know that's heaps but I will hold onto it as a spare if its not worth that to someone 3. Stock RB20DET injectors 110,000 k's they have been cleaned and serviced at some stage as they have new pintle caps on them, they are in really good condition. I will clean them ultrasonically free for the buyer $75 here are the pics of the turbo, injectors and oil line. all parts can be shipped Thanks!

My boost was holding perfectly at 16psi with the turbotech controller. I amso have a 3" split dump from the turbo back to the cat. Cubes, Live edit can be used as a good ground for a base tune but is not accurate down to 1/2 of an afr by any means, especially when you start changing the injector size. but it is a good starting point.

yep. I am going to have to pull timing when more boost goes in and the afr's come up. Also my intercooler is 100mm thich and intake temps measured at the TB are allways below 30deg. I use live edit or rom editor for fuel and timing maps but do not have a romulator just a stack of blank eproms, a laptop and a eprom burner. Have to get a romulator one of these days and I dont even have a consult cable at the moment so all calcs were done run by run.

shell 100 octane and base timing is 15deg

Hi Jeff. yep I am running heaps of timing 22 degrees from 4000 to 5600 and 23 at 6000 and then 25 degrees from 6000 to 7800. I will have to spend quite a bit of time leaning it out and try to bring it on boost a bit faster. I am going to drop the AFR's to 11.5 if i stay with the RB20afm just incase I get a really lead fool on a cold day. but if the Z32 goes in I will run 12:1.

R32 Skyline Sliding Performance RB25 Hiflow for RB20 RB20 turbo wastegate BOS importing split dump/front pipe 3" meatalcat 2.75" kakimoto JASMA approved catback TRUST tube and fin FMIC GTR 444cc injectors GTR fuel pump Remapped factory ECU pneumatic/mechanical turbotech boost controller NGK copper plugs gapped to 0.9 Stock cams, airbox, BOV, panel filter. Run was done at 16PSI Few things to sort out to reach full potential of 230rwkw New plugs gapped to .8 New 3" catback Z32 AFM Lean the tune out Then run 18PSI

The run was done in 4th.. Really keen to see your results simon yeah should of got the scale on the bottom in rpm not speed.

it it really nice and progressive smooth and powerful. it does not whack you in the ass with one bit hit of boost. Also forgot to mention it is making HEAPS of torque. unfortunatly I dont have a reading as i forgot to ask for one and i cant remember how much but it was really good. it makes enough power to loose traction on accelleration in a straight line in 3rd. It is quite a while scince i have drevn a REALLY fast car but it sure does have that HoLY ShiT factor when you put your foot down simon-ae86, Did you get yours tuned

Will do cubes yep will spool earlier if it is leaned out a bit. there is no knock and the tune just needs to be leaned out not bad for a stock ecu that has been remapped. there is definatly 230rwkw to be had with this turbo on an RB20.

haha! just got back from getting it dynoed. Please keep in mind I tuned it myself and there are a few things that need sorting out 1. spark was getting blown out at 17PSI but was just ok at 16psi so I will have to gap the plugs down to 0.8 (they are now at 1.0) 2. My exhaust is only 2.75" from the cat back and it will be getting replaced shortly 3. I was maxing out the RB20AFM and have to decide to tune around it or to replace with Z32. I think in the end it will be replaced 4. didn't have time to lean the tune out. but at least it is nice and safe for now. With the new exhaust and spark sorted out and with the tune leaned out it will make a solid 230rwkw at 18psi. The run below was done at 16psi and as you cansee it is breaking up a bit up top. The car feels really great to drive and boost progression is very linear. it is not super responsive but vert pleasent to drive. The car now feels solidly fast and I can only say good things about sliding performance turbochargers. The upside... my car looks completly stock down to BOV, airbox, ect. (except for frontmount) All in all I am really happy and will sort all the littles out and get it redynoed in the following weeks and am expecting 300+ horsepower Cheers!

Sorted! Thnx all

Thanks champ

is that the pipe that comes off back of the plenum? and has 3 large connections and 1 small one?. I seem to remember it from my previous car.

anyone?

I would be looking at the idler and tensioner. if they are not correctly aligned they can push the belt either back or forward. or one of the cam gears may not be sitting flat. wow that is one rooted belt glad your engine is still in one peice.

REally quick one. I have just put new injectors in my R32 and in the process found there is a vacuum nipple on the rear of the rail that is not connected. Is this supposed to be connected? and where to? Thanks

Thanks for this Roy. just did the conversion today. I ended up using individual resistors but the diagram was really useful. I had a couple of funny things though. The GTR Injectors I have have a little bit of plastic on the inside that is not thesr on the RB20 injector. and also the outside lug is centred on my GTR injectors and to one side on the RB20 ones. I cut the little lug and the plug fits fine. Also The rear of the fuel line has a vacuum line but it was not connected on my car. Is it supposed to be connected? if so where to? will any boost/vacuum scorce be fine? should it be pre or post throttle body?