CEF11E

digging up old threads again I have just installed GTR injectors and used 10watt resistors from farnell. they are 6.8ohm and are wire wound with heatsinks. I picked them because they are rated to 275deg c. the part number is 950-8015 find them here: CLICKY CLICKY they cost about $28 for 6

I have just gotten a bit further to getting some results. I have just put in my GTR injectors and remapped the ecu to suit the bigger injectors and added fuel just for testing. It is now spooling up quite a bit faster and I have set it to 14psi. it reaches full boost by around 4200rpm and feels very strong. Cant wait to tune it tomorrow. it looks like it is going to be a good combination and may end up being quite streetable

I have booked some dyno time on Wednesday as well. I only have an hour on the dyno so it will not be a complete tune. I will just be tuning the stock ECU at WOT and compensating for the GTR injectors. Mine is not the stage 3 max oversize turbo it is the straight rb25 hiflow.

not at the moment cubes. I will see how power delivery is coming on. I need to change the timing belt soon anyway so I will atl east get an exhaust cam gear then. The turbo seems to spool earlier and earlier every time I drive it. almost as if it needs to bed in. I am starting to think I would really lke a 3lt bottom end.

the turbo to dump bolts were just from an exhaust shop. the oil line details are available in a post a few above. Cheers.

split dump = more power. reduces turbulance and increases flow over bellmouth. I have one of the split dumps in that thread. worth the extra $$$ twice over.

yep that's it. just make sure you connect it the right way around.

I took the original oil line and banjo bolts and asked them to modify the line. The guy told me that it wouldn't cost that much to make up a stainless one with the same banjos. They are speedflow fittings and can be found everywhere that stocks speedflow. there are 2 parts to each end. A hose tail with female threadded insert and a banjo with male threadded insert. The hose it braided stainless and comes on a roll and is just cut to size. then you slide the collett and olive over the braid and then push the tail of the fitting between the stainless braid and the inner line. then screw it all together. It took the guy about 5 min to match all the fittings and about 5 to screw it all together. no brazing or anything involved and it is rated to over 1000psi and hundreds of degrees If you get all the bits from pirtek you don't get charged labour. so it will only cost you about $80. plus they have all different types of tail ends to suit any turbo.

Yep I am using the RB25 hiflow too. The only thing retained are the housings. the rest is all new. The rb20 hiflow would be a bit quicker to spool but my logic was I can get 190rwkw from a stock rb25 turbo and that is close to what the rb20 hiflow would put out so I didn't really see it as much of an upgrade. so I decided to go for the RB25 hiflow. driving normally is fine. It does not feel completly dead like a rb20 usually does with a huge turbo as these it posative manifold pressure from 2400rpm so most of the time boost is just a tap away. Looking forward to getting the car to the drags as soon as its all tuned.

Thanks Simon. Yep same for me with the oil line, just tightened it and its now fine. just tighter than usual. boost seems to be starting around 2400rpm and possibly full noise at 4000rpm butI am not keen to give it a boot yet. Also, Cefiro's use 27C128 eproms and Skylines use 27C256. did you just put the cefiro eprom in the skyline ecu or did you stack it and write it to a 27C256? or are you using the crff ecu in the R32? Carefull.. there are some differences between R32's and cefiros AFM's are different and the temp sender is in a different location in the eprom

Few questions for you simon. Where is your usable power band in 2nd and 3rd Simon?. Also what is your "seat of the pants dyno" tell you. Did you have any problem getting a seal on the oil supply to the turbo. You know how the surface of the carteridge has been machined and has slight striations on the surface? The copper washers I am using are sealing but these is a really tiny leak of about 3 drops of oil beading around the edge of the washer. Took the car out thus morning but it was wet so couldnt give it any stick. I was going to put the gtr injectors in and road tune it today but I don't have a wideband here and its too wet for road tune Do you have a copy of the map you are currently using? can I have a look at it . What are your supporting mods? Cheers

you = champinn :0 thanks Rizza

Ok. The turbo is now in and running. Getting the stock turbo off took me 50min and was an easy task. When looking at the oil feed line I decided it was best left to a hose doctor So off to pirtek and I had this made up. Speedflow fittings and braided stainless was used and all up coost less than $80. The internal diameter of the line and fittings are 6mm! perfect Also had to drill out the restrictor in the bolt from the block to the oil line. With the new line made up, a handfull of new copper washers, 6 hi tensile new turbo to dump bolts, an oil filter and motul turbo light 4100 I headded home. First issue I expected and that was the RB25 turbo does not have a nipple for boost pressure so I tapped one into the piping. Test fitted the turbo to find the compressor housing needed to be rotated about 1cm as it was fowling on the exhaust manifold heat shield. once that was sorted it was a bolt on operation as you'd expect once all back together and oil and water changed, I started the car and let it idle for 10 min as per Aarons instructions. Here are some comparison photos showing a stock RB20 turbo compared to the hiflow. Do you like the nice caked on oil? mmm dirty turbo I warmed the car up and drove for 20km with no boost and with the actuator set to 7psi and haven't driven it hard yet as it needs the injectors put in and the tune done. Injectors will go in tomorrow and tune on wednesday. So far happy with the results. it is quite laggy at the moment. starts boosting at 2400 rpm and 7psi at 3800. keep in mind this is without tune. I am hoping to run 17psi and have full boost by around 4000rpm. Will keep you all updated

yep one of those ism me. I have gtr n1 front bar, the other one has a type m front bar I accidently tried to get into the wrong car one afternoon. wondered why my remote was not working. hehe. THat mysterious R32 4 door with pink fluffy bits is pretty cool I have seen 2 people driving it. it has a smash on the front left 1/4 ATM. you washed your car yaf28f looks shiny now but i kinda liked it looking dirty

Hi all, for no particular reason other than curiosity I am looking for a list of performance cars and their power/torque to weight ratios. anyone have such a list? interested in any/as many as you have or if s0omeone has a site that lists some. did a fair bit of googling and found none. just interested as to what else is in the range of 5.75kw/kg..

he said he has already tried another ignitor. CRC is a lubricant/dispursant like wd40 but it tends to eat the green stuff really well.

yep the box already crunches 2nd as the syncro is very worn. I will be putting in a new box some time in the new year

you don't have any of thet "special" green goo that seems to form in all the nissan connectors do you? Take off the ignighter plug and have a good look inside theplug. is the copper all green? If it is you can clean it with CRC and a toothbrush. This goo is an excellent insulator and has given me greif on my AFM plug before took me about 2 hours to find why the car would randomly stall for no reason.

Not sure about the oil feed yet. I am going to take mine off first thing saturday morning and head over to pirtek with it and the 2 banjo bolts. will either get a nre braided one made up or mod mine to suit. The banjo bolts have to be drilled out to 6mm and the banjo fittings need to be drilled out to 5mm. I do have the tools but would rather a pro did it.

jeez, you are keen Takes me 3.5 hours. I find if you remove the turbo oil feed first and the water supply lines fri=om the turbo. The outside one leaning in over the car, and the isside on lying under the car reaching up. Take off the drain at the turbo (2 bolts) other wise you will have a hell of a time getting the oil drain back on when the turbo is back in place. be very careful bending the lines. If you do it is a bitch to get them back in. Also be really careful not to loose your copper washers It is a fairly easy job is you take your time and go easy.

GOLD!!! I don't even have a stereo in my skyline.

yeah it's funny. I think it is because the snout is tapered it actually looks a lot more bored than it actually is. There is a good bit of meat left on the snout. it just looks super thin in the photos I may have ot re estimate my initial power estimate after calculating the flow of the 2.75" exhaust compared to a 3". I worked out it will flow 19% less than a 3" If I am wrong please feel free to correct me. but I think it will be a fairly large restriction and I will not have the time or money to replace it untill after the dyno is done. but we will see how it goes.

I have purchased a Sliding Performance RB25 hiflow for RB20 and will be installing it on my RB20det over the weekend and thought as there was no results on them with RB20det's I will post all my results here. The turbo arrived as soon as Aaron promised and my first opinions are it is a good quality product. The machining and finish is very high quality and the CHRA came filled with fully synthetic oil. Both the compressor and turbine are new as well as the whole shaft, bearings and carteridge. Here are some photos. The turbo will be going on a mildly modified RB20det with approx 100,000K's and the following RB20 turbo wastegate BOS importing split dump/front pipe 3" meatalcat 2.75" kakimoto JASMA approved catback (will be upgrading to 3" later) TRUST tube and fin FMIC GTR 444cc injectors GTR fuel pump Remapped factory ECU pneumatic/mechanical turbotech boost controller NGK copper plugs gapped to 0.9 (factory coils still in good condition) Stock cams, airbox, BOV, panel filter. Other modifications to come will also be 1.5 way mechanical diff and brass button clutch. I will not have a chance to dyno the car and make adjustments to the timing and fuel map untill next Thursday but will post the results once done. currently I estimate the car is making around 140RWKW. I am hoping for 210RWKW once installed. Will keep you all posted Cheers

The insurance company has the right if you sign the policy to check up with the registry, The registry will have details of how much stamp duty you have paid ant that will tell them how much the purchase price is. NEVER lie to your insurance company because it will come back to bite you on the ass if you ever have to make a claim Cheers!

Yep I might be keen, I just booked some dyno time on the wednesday before but it never hurts to get it checked on another dyno so Saturday the 18 th sounds good.