CEF11E

the metal cat can be bought from the group buys section on these forums and the x force can be bought from ebay or just jap.

ok sounds fair. PM me your number

All parts off my R32 and are only selling due to upgrades. 1. R32 GTST front bar midnight black. good condition see photo comes with factory front bar driving lights $75 2. turbotech boost controller new unused $20 3. R32 fuel pump $20 4. R32 stock intercooler and piping $20 5. R32 stock BOV $20 6. R32 GTS steering wheel $20 7. R32 stock dump/frontpipe $20 all parts in good working condition.

BOS importing front/dump pipe $380 Metalcat 3" hiflow cat with flanges $345 3.5 xforce catback $450 all up less than $1200 for the best flowing stainless turbo back. the xforce systems are quite loud. Don't skimp on the front pipe and the cat spend your money there and just buy an xforce catback.

all thew jap tunes I have downloaded from various ECU's as roy says dismiss the AFM and just tune with a wideband at full throttle.= really bad idea on the first cold day and hitting boost as the air is denser and you will run lean and bang... yep you can change the scale in a PFC but you need to know what to change it to increasing the dia of an AFM can give you a percentage but I bet it will be wrong at certain points. The old put an RB20 sensor in line after the cooler in a 3"dia pipe will give you enough res to make the car idle if you change the base 6 or 7 figures in the VQ to read less than 1.0 volts but at cruise it will run like shit. not a good idea for a street car.

lifters make a clack clack sound and injectors make a tink tink sound. hope this helps. BTW no1 is the coolest running cyl as it gets cooled the best. so it is likely to be the seat of the injector is buggered. disconnect the plug to this injector and see if it goes away.

100% true. but usually it is cheaper to buy a $300 unit than pay a tuner another couple of hours.

me = wrong There you go. I have learned something new today... today is a good day

Cat arrived this morning! how quick is that Thanks rob looks great! came in nice box too. Fitted it this afternoon and I am a happy camper. + feedback for organising everything so quickly. Thanks rob!

see if you can buy the wreck back for a couple of grand and wreck it yourself. you will bake a bit of extra cash back that way. Get another line dude they are quite cheap at the moment and you will hate anything else you get!

Congrats! I gave up about 3 months ago aswell. I smoked for 10 years and allways hated it but could never quit. then oneday they went in the bin and that was it! I feel heaps better and am not ashamed anymore. but every time I hit beer number 7 out come the ciggaz... it makes me feel sick to think about it. ewwww.

And the last point is. If you are changing the AFM you already have a modified car and another $300 for a Z32 or Q45 unit is peanuts. and is the best option ALLWAYS

all these things are well and good. and will work.. I have even tried using resistors and changing the diameter of an AFM and I can tell you neither are a viable solution... Why? The problem lies in the way the ECU reads and references the voltage. This is called a VQ map and is a 128 load point map in the ecu and is callibrated to the AFM. Once you change the diameter of the afm or modify it the VQ map is no longer a true representation of what the AFM is doing. BUT THAT IS WHAT WE ARE TRYING TO DO!!!! i hear you say. yes you are trying to get higher resolution at higher flow. bit what you are actually doing is feeding an unknown comodity into the ECU. Both the PFC and remapped stock ECU have the ability to use SET VQ maps. eg: Z32 afm, Q45. these maps match the AFM you are using so the ECU knows exactly what is going in. If you change thediameter of the AFM you no longer have a predictable callibration table to work with when tuning

Don't get them hiflowed. it ruins the spray pattern and costs nearly as much as getting a good set. I look at it this way, Injectors are a CRITICAL part of your enging and if they dont work correctly it goes BANG seriously just get good ones to start with. $700 beats a dead engine and relative to other mods they are quite cheap.

the steel wool could have come out of the muffler as thats what they use in them. and the ticking sound sounds like an injector. try listen to each injector with a screw driver and see if any 1 is loud. cheers

Whooo Hoooo!!! guess I am going to be doing some welding this weekend Thanks rob, I will let you know as soon as it has arrived.

At least it will look shiny and new hope it all works out well for you mate.

If you are aimimg for that sort of power I would go the RB26 head right off the bat. Solid Lifters, best stock cams, more turbo options due to manifold availability, Best plenum, It will cost you $1000 more to buy the head but in the long run it will be cheaper

hehe that was me on Lady denman drive I just caught a glimpse of teh R32 goodness

Interested in the box. will you seperate? If so how much for the box and clutch. Thanks

I need a set of oil and water lines to suit an RB25 turbo with the banjo bolts. If anyone has a set please PM me. Thanks!

I have to agree. have taken off 4 turbos and the water oil lines allways cause me dramas. I would like to have some flexible ones made up as every time I have upgraded from an RB20/vg20 turbo to a RB25 turbo something did not fit. like larger diameter banjo bolts. I am going to be getting a new turbo and think I will try to get a second set of lined and mod them before I take a spanner to the car. Nothing worse than getting it all off and finding out you have to get some emergency very costly work done to get it all to fit.

best way to get decent performance in summer is a waterspray intercooler jet. I have had great sucess with this. I had a cefiro a couple of years ago that was set up for drift and saw a lot of track work in summer and it was also my daily driver. I had a temp probe lust before the throttle body to measuer intake temps. When I first got the car in summer with the stock cooler I saw temps of 60deg + then I put the FMIC on and saw an drop of about 10 to 15 deg. but I was getting pinging on really hot days. so I decided to fit a waterspray system. All it really was was a windscreen washer motor/bottle with a hose going to the front of the cooler that directed 4 water mist nozzles on the front of the cooler. It had a check valve to stop it from siphoning out of the washer bottle. It was triggered by a pressure switch from an old washing machine that was set to 4psi. As soon as you started to boost it the system would switch on and spray water in a fine mist onto the cooler. It was amazing it dropped intake temps to about 5 to 10 deg above ambient. and stopped the engine from pinging. I am going to do the same mod this summer on my new car and will do a writeup for those interested. All up it cost about $70 for the patrs and a bit of fiddling but its a really good mod. you just have to remember to fill up the bottle every time you fill the car as it only lasts for about a 300k's with spirited driving on a small scource.

Not much yet. just FMIC and exhaust. but new turbo, injectors, afm, ecu going in over the next 2 months

balance payment done. Thanks Rob. I have had issues the same with TNT before and belive every word of it damn dissorganised freight company. Thanks Rob.