CEF11E

hehe that black R32 was me Spotted a yellow R34 Gtt at chapman shops all the time. spotted a white R32 gtr at tuggeranong office park on friday mmm dirty but sexual

I have drained and filled... correction... OVERFILLED an RB20 box. I took out the bottom plug and drained the contents and 3.6 litre came out. I couldn't get the filling plug off so had to fill it by removing the shifter and pouring it down. I put exactly 4 litres in. and now the bottob of the car is covered in gearbox oil! so it is overfull... so I will be putting 3.6 litre in next change.

hehe yeah he was keen. I had wife in the car me running cars = wife angry hehehe you ceff looks really nice. the whole time I was thinking mmmm sell R32 nd buy another ceff? hmmm. I am up to car number 20 now and I just bought the 32 so I will have to hold out for a year.

Looks fixable to me. I would be guessing no change out of $5000 as the rear floor pan looks bent. Sorry to hear about it hope all goes well sorting it out.

hehe yeah u right sorry just having a biauch... was in a bad mood

This sort of remapping has been done in japan for more than 10 years. it is a cheaper alternative to getting a PFC. usually you get the best results from mild tried and tested upgrades like rb25 turb on RB20 or 2530 on RB20 and standard injector upgrades like gtr into RB20 or Z32 afm into RB20. I have had a lot of remaps done and I have always been happy with em. because nobody knows you are running aftermarket management. easier on rego and $1000 less to fork out on mods. There would be literally 100s of people on these forums running remaps and most are happy with them. It's all well and good to say PFC PFC PFC till you are blue in the face but it is proven that a remap works otherwise nobody would do it. my 2c

Idiot... Firstly he is selling 2 not 4. Secondly he is in in USA hence asking $70 US. ($94 AUD) Thirdly your pissy offer of $50 not even cover postage. In what magical land do you think someone would give you a set of spacers for free you knob... Its a pitty people like you own skylines it gives us all a bad name.

I am also in the same boat. I have fitted a batmbl front split dump and just bought a 3" metalcat without flanges. After having a really good look at my exhaust the middle section is not 3" so I want to replace the middle section and get the cat put in at the same time. I have been quoted rediculous prices. like $500 to get it done in stainless for a peice of pipe that is 1 metre long and two 3" flanges. I am not made of money. race snooze if you have a mate that can do the welding he is worth his weight in beer That's what the exhaust places want to charge anyway.

yep hard getting bits for a Y31. I had one for 2 years. really nice cars. Mine was the one on megallas site that had 42ks on it. I ended up getting an account on yahoo JP and buting things and getting them shipped over here from a freind in JP. cost a fortune

I had a Y31 gloria with a VG20DET in it quad cam V6 same bore and stroke and compression as an RB20. put an RB25 turb on it and nice exhaust and it went really well. the F31 is also a nice car but nowhere near as cool as the Y31. Get a Y31. and the VG20DET is a great little engine

run the factory ECU and just do not run injectors. use a carby to control fuel and let the ECU do the rest. Why the hell would you want to do it anyway? I have seen some nice quad throttle SR20's that rev to 10,000 with huge cams. buy why with a Y40?

I have an M80 mongoose alarm fitted but never had the central locking hooked up. I want to get it done now and have the central locking loom and an actuator for the drivers door. I need to know wich wires to use as the actuator I have is a slave actuator not a master. The loom wires are as follows: 1 Orange - unlock - NO (fused) 2 Blue - Unlock - Common 3 Brown - Unlock - NC 4 Black - Ground when armed 5 White - Lock - NC 6 Green - Lock - Common 7 Purple - Lock - NO (fused) 8 Yellow - 2 Stage Unlock The Actuator wires are 1 Blue 2 Green The actuator is a Mongoose aswell. It is going into an R32. Can someone be kind enough to tell me how to wire it up? Thanks!

Jeebus... What are you putting that on Brendan?

this is becoming all to common. Cut their balls off so they are miserable then a after a year of misery kill them. really sorry to hear it. I hope she was insured.

My uncle's VW passat in Poland had a simular issue last year. We just left the car off and disconnected the battery with the brake pedal pressed for 5 min and then reconnected the battery and voila!. also cleaned out the AFM and replaced the 02 sensor. hope this helps! also if you have a security coded radio make sure you have the code before you disconnect the battery. Cheers!

ok It's all good I think. I will fill it up and see how we go. the tank is nearly empty at the moment as I didn't want to open the tank while full of fuel. also after driving the car today it's not that loud anymore. next to the boot it is loud in the car it's not that loud almost non audiable.

Spotted a dark metallic olive ceff with silver autostyle sticker leaving Liverpool on Sunday then followed him 100k's to the southern highlands and then got a very creative wave goodbye I was in the black R32. I miss my ceff... snifff.. BTW you are running rich under boost

can you tell me what the ratios are? want speed are you doing at redline in each gear? in 5th doing 100 what rpm are you doing?

I have just replaced the fuelpump in my R32 gtst with a R32 GTR pump and it was nearly a bolt right in job. only took an hour and 15. I had to use the sock from the gtst pump as the gtr sock was too long and fouled on the bottom of the tank. I couldnot clip it on as the clip was around the wrong orientation but it fits snugly under the rubber bottom and backing plate. so it's in and working. 2 questions... 1. How loud are they normally. it wirrs evenly and fairly loud outside the car, and you can hear it mildly from inside the cabin. (my exhaust is very quiet) is it normal for it to sound like I have a boot full of bees? 2. I am running the standard wiring as I do not need the max flow out of the pump and do not want to run it direct feed. Do I need to put a larger fuse in for the new pump?

hehe pulp fiction.. That's a very expensive glass of Chardonnay you're NOT drinking there. It isn't poisoned.

biff buchannan, back to the future part two We live in a country surrounded by walls, somebody has to protect those walls with guns... Who's gonna do it you?

dude you are better off doing a search. there are over a dozen threads about rebuilding it into an rb30det. less than 250rwkw use stock bottom end rebuilt to nissan spec over that use rods and forgies. do a bit of a search it will help you

F & F tokyo drift... I googled it "Special agent Utah"

How is is going with this? I am really keen to see what sort of lag you get with a 2535 on the RB20. I am after sometning a little bigger than what I have and think the 2535 will do the trick. Have you had the car remapped? Cheers.

If you are after 400 rwhp I would be going for 600cc. If you have a power FC you already have toyr fuel and timing maps done. put the injectors in and change the size /flowrate/latency and dyno it and you are done. If you have a remapped stock ECU you change the K value to suit the larger injectors reference the void blast off time. then you need to recalc your boost table. Can be a lot of fu$%ing around on a stock ECU if you do it properly. I am assuming u have a power fc tho?