SimonR32

Those 6466 seem to be very impressive! Would be interesting to back one up vs a 6262. Speaking of which, I'm going to try and get my car back on the dyno in the next week or so for a bit more boost

So I've been on a hunt for a little more front track on my R32 GTR while also giving some more free camber as a result. I could just get my cash out and go the Ikeya Formula route but I'm trying to save money during the time my new house is getting built so I'm looking for a cheaper option. Enter Moonface racing who seem to specialise in this kind of thing... First they have standard roll centre adjusters (which I already have albeit in Greddy form) Then they have these offset roll centre adjusters with ball joints that would do the trick, only issue is they are the best part of the Ikeya Formula kit which I would rather have. and then come these... What they call a Racing plate Camber Adjuster, which appears to be an offset roll centre adjuster but by the photos appears that the bolt centerlines and locating circle are still the same geometry as normal with only the spacer offset which wouldn't actually change anything?!? Tell me I'm going crazy but I can't for the love of me see how these work? They are a really cheap option if they did offset the ball joint but they don't? Or tell me to stop being a jew and buy the Ikeya Formula kit

I'm leaning towards no check valve or filter at the moment.

Agree with all of that and in addition if the drain isn't draining it can double as a second vent. Now my only considerations are putting a check valve and/or filter in the drain line

To do one better I just had my fittings welded today so I have photos Sump on intake side is 2 x -10 Catch can has one -10 drain at bottom that will go to the sump, 2 x hose tails on top to go to cam cover breathers and one -10 that will go to the other fitting on the sump as a vent.

Ah bugger wrong side all good

Just read your plan, almost exactly the same plan but you didn't mention if you put a one way valve in the catch can drain?

Ok so the above was a fail, still getting plenty of oil in the catch can (about 100ml per lap) so back to the drawing board. Luckily (unluckily but I'm being optimistic) I went to the track the other night in the wet and the excess front wheelspin has lunched the front diff so the motor is coming out. I have a Greddy extended sump so I'm now planning on getting 2 x dash 10 fittings welded to the passenger (intake) side at the front above the oil line. Going to remove that other line to the rear turbo oil drain and just blank it off again at the same time at it didn't seem to help. I plan on one of the dash 10 lines going to the top of the catch can next to the cover breathers as a sump breather. The other will get plumbed to the bottom of the catch can with a one way valve (no spring) to act as a drain for any oil to drain if and when it does reach the catch can... Am I on the right track here? Works in my head

Joey, photos?!?

Hi guys, Have a Turbowerx Exa-pump Mini that I was going to use to pump oil from my catch can back to my sump but now my motor is coming out I'm going a different direction. http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/page1/page1.html These things are awesome quality and come with dash 6 (-6 AN) fittings instead of crappy hosetail connections from other cheap shitty ones. Brand new as I never installed it Cost me $493 delivered but all yours for $400 posted anywhere in Australia. Cheers Simon

Saw a photo on facebook last night of a RB30 with a EFR8374 that is aiming to be running in the next few weeks. Shall be interesting On the Precision turbos, they are a shit load cheaper... I paid $1600ish delivered for my turbo which is close enough to $1000 cheaper than the EFR or HTA equivalent. No reliability issues so far either. In saying all that they are not the be all and end all, not the only choice, but usually a good one

My 1200cc injectors are just hitting 100% at 450rwkw on the same brand of dyno

Still have this

I was under the impression the R33 GTR LCAs didn't fit?!? or were different mounting? Otherwise I'll do that straight away

I just had a look at the Nismo mounts (in a kit) and they are about the same money if not more than the UAS arms and the Nismo kit still isn't going to give as much camber as you actually want even with the extended LCA's. Mind you I have the UAS arms and also want the Nismo mounts and LCA's... Just too expensive to justify at the moment

Insane work, well done... Going to be so bad driving on the road for the first time, I bet you will be able to hear every single bit of sand and dirt hitting the undercarriage

It did have a hks 2540 and made 320rwhp but the rear got fairly hot being a 0.64 so they have upgraded to help. The wastegate hole has been bored out and a bigger flapper installed. Went from 22 to 31mm so about double the flow

TD06H-20G 12cm going on a RB25/30 in a Patrol

On a engine like yours torque should peak around when full boost is first reached and then hold (maybe trailing off a little) until redline. The torque/power graph posted looked like boost was creeping throughout the the range... Have you got a boost plot? Also they are RB20 NICS covers... RB30s are single cam engines

I know how a hub dyno works, you should be making peak torque at around 5000-5500rpm not 7500rpm. Something is causing you to lose a lot of mid range power? PS. How do the RB20 Nics covers go with blow bye?

Dexter killed a turbo?

Facebook videos are not working What's with the torque, is the boost all over the place? Shocking in the mid range torque but 640Nm at 7500rpm

I assume you mean Rob from JPC, he will point you in the right direction. My power isn't what I would recommend for most people but most of the "safety" stuff I have done I would be suggesting you do even with stock power.

Coming up a year now... of hard motorsport as well, not street duties (and that's not mentioning that it came from Japan with a T88 and had been that way for at least 10 years) Either way think about why RB26's with 320rwkw die (assuming the tune is good, on E85 even safer)... Pistons = Fine Rods = Fine Crank = Fine Block = Fine Bearings = Will die without pump, sump and balancer (otherwise Fine) Head and Head Gasket = Fine Value guides = Lotto, they die at stock power, they die at big power... Roll your dice Fix the issues and you should have nice reliable motoring. If not you can always replace with a nice low km R34 motor for less than half a rebuild

My 22 year old standard internals seem fairly happy running 450rwkw...