Omurru

lol Found this in one of my books, it relates to turbine engines but I don't see why the principle would change with piston engine exhausts. "The noise suppressors in current use are either of the corrugated perimeter or the multitube type that breaks up the single, main jet exhaust stream into a number of smaller jet streams. This increases the total perimeter of the nozzle area, and reduces the size of the eddies created as the gases are discharged to the open air. Although the total noise energy remains unchanged the frequencey is raised considerably. The size of the eddies scale down linearly with the size of the exhaust steam. The simplest means of reducing noise levels would be to reduce exit velocity for a given engine, but this is impossiable as thrust is directley related to exit velocity." Maybe why the restrictor in the end doesn't reduce the meters reading? Also an exhaust system is reducing exhaust velocity by means of mufflers etc but also absorbs some of the noise (soundwaves etc.) Hence a restrictor further up the exhaust will slow it there instead of at the tip where the muffler will then be reducing the level of an already reduced note. P.S. This may all be bullshit, I really have no idea so feel free to correct me if I am wrong.....

On the topic of restrictors, the 'jap style' ones that go in the end of the exhaust in my experience do bugger all, I have seen them even make the exhaust note louder, all they are is a whistle really. Unless your gonna cut the exhaust up and put in a different muffler which to be under 90db is probably gonna be restrictive as hell and permanant, the only option is to use a baffle somewhere further up the exhaust. I've used them in a few cars either before or after the cat and depending on design (single smaller hole, multiple holes etc) they make a big difference, but still it's not a permanant solution. I've found with mufflers the more restrictive they are the more they quieten. Although at the 93db it's at why don't you want to just use a restrictor to pass the test, as you said the average hsv is louder anyway.....

Siff keep it at racepace. You can keep it in my shed at my parents place, with all my random stuff Then when I need something you have and I don't it's right there for me to take

yeh mines floating around somewhere, i'll check at my parents place when i'm there tomorrow. call me

Probably the same reason his last one was a gay man in leathers dancing

33gtr 600-1000hp, 917753 for me....

Thats not the point of the topic.

I should know all about this, I have an exam on it next week . What Geoff said is spot on. Bellmouth intakes are generally used because the duct loss is so slight it's considered to be zero, makes it easier to calculate things. I'd be interested to see the cfm output of a turbo compressor at a given rpm with/without a bellmouth intake. Maybe if you went from stock intake piping to bellmouth intake sticking out your bonnet you might notice a difference but otherwise I doubt it.

My bro's got cheapo chinese tyres on his commodore and I reckon you could push the car sideways in the wet and it would slide it's rediculous how bad the wet weather traction is. sorry to hear about the car though that sucks ass, trees should be required to bend more

Interesting, never seen this on car tyres before. Big airplane tyres get it all the time, it's called chevron tearing or "chevroning". Sometimes the tears appear in little ^^^^ shapes other times they are just straight. I think from memory it's cause by the initial touchdown point before the antiskid has a chance to kick in. Unless the tyre starts loosing chunks of rubber or the tears are big you don't have to worry about it. With airplanes that it is Would be interested to know what caused it on car tyres though, the only thing I can think of is the rubber is very soft and the car perhaps suffers from axle tramp...

To me that says your headlights are adjusted wrong...probably too high and therefor blinding oncoming drivers, hence the flashes.....

Mechanical Engineer for Qantas....in other words I fix the airplanes

loss! you've taken out the insulation haven't you

sif not consult me on such a minuscule topic...what is this world coming to I say do it, that heat wrap stuff if done properly works really well. One of the big ground air supply machines at work has that stuff wrapped round all the exhaust pipes and the pipe of the turbo is only just warm when it's going full pelt and less heat in the engine bay is always a good thing! I wouldn't think twice about doing it on mine if I had it all out. Anyway I know you've got plenty of moulah to waste

Maybe you should have had the "clutch kick"(not really sure what that is) issue sorted out in the first place?

Yep will use the existing plugs

ABS brakes I think the one in the boot is the motor for the aerial feel the top does the aerial come out of it Not sure if the fuel pump thinggo can go in the bin when you direct wire it, cos you are still using the signal from the ecu to turn the relay on and off, if you unplug that box the signal from the ecu (via the fuel pump ecu) won't be there anymore, might have to do some tricksy jumping of the plug to keep it working. If your shaving weight top left corner of the boot, hanging under the parcel shelf I believe is the factory amp.....bin....

Standard RB30 Piston: 342g Standard RB30 Rod: 674g Came out of an N/A S3 Skyline motor. No pins, bolts, rings etc.

If you are happy to look at the car yourself and be able to decide weather or not it's good and see any problems with it buying interstate is easy. I bought my car from QLD with minimal hassles. As long as they provide you with a current roadworthy rego transfers are easy and you only pay the stamp duty once.

If you want QLD custom plates on your car you'll need to get the car re-registered in QLD which will involve getting a QLD roady, and an address where the car will be garaged up there. But remember a "6 letter" QLD plate is $2500+. History.

haha nice receipt paul, but I wanna see a photo of you at the servo pumping it giving the thumbs up Been having a few issues with my car of late with high knock readings 60+ is quite a common event. Need to pull the coil packs out and check them but might try some of the 100RON stuff next time instead of the ultimate I have been using.

looks good, got any before pics? Did you do the exhaust side as well or just the intake side? what tools you use to do it? Have always been intrested in trying this myself.

haha yes...traction...For some reason I had a phobia of the proper line around that corner and kept pulling it in tight, maybe wall proximity

it is, just too lazy to put the trim back on Which reminds me I still haven't....

Nice setup, does seem like alot of effort although I do see where your coming from. I just put the same cooler in the same place in my car but mounted a little differently, will round up the pics I took of it. I have the same concern about the hot air from the cooler going up to the pods. I was going to seal up that hole and make up a box that uses the stock intake scoop.