NEO25T

Where do your timing marks line up to, yellow or red? I'm about out of ideas...

Yeah that doesn't look right

Well fire that puppy up, you might have fixed it lol Is your idle control plugged in properly, if thats not opening to keep the motor running, rpm will be down as well as vacuum

Last thing I can think of, my fuel map need adjusting after tightening the valve clearences but it still ran and idled

Do you know why it bent valves in the first place?

Did you hold the intake cam on the hex with a spanner while removing/installing the cam gear? If not it might be jammed advanced and could probably cause something like this

Was it running with these cams prior or were they put in while doing the head. Can you put an air fitting in spark plug hole while at tdc comp stroke and listed to see if valves are sealing. Those clearences will not cause it to have no vacuum

What rpm will it run steady while holding throttle open. Are all the vac lines connected properly, might wanna do a leak test

How much vacuum do you have and what cams. I just set clearences to what yours are with type b poncams and mine has 13-14 in vac, still have to set the ecu up properly too so might get a bit more

Welds are pretty average but hasn't broken off yet lol

Nah it was all done by hand with die grinder, just traced the gasket. I didnt take many pics but started by knife edging the divider then slightly open the bowls to same size as the seats, smoothed the radius of the short turn and slightly opened the ports to same size as det head then just blended it out to the marks from the gasket, i dont think id like to see any flow bench results lol. Those are r35gtr coils from prp. Yeah its just a cover from a hydro 25 as i dont like the look of the neo ones, rb20 cam covers on it too. I did weld fittings in the cam covers on the other motor but these ones um i forget..... I think those are the standard nissan ones i cut and welded with -12 fittings, you can get them push in to an but the ones i seen were straight so you had to put a 90 degree hose fitting and they stuck up and i didn't like how it looked, ill take a pic if i remember in the next day or 2

Nah this was full budget this time round i just opened them up with die grinder, no machining done at all. I just cleaned and measured everything, light hone on the block, cleaned everything again, and again, slapped in some valve stem seals and threw it together.

Almost ready to go hurt some feelings, hopefully not mine this time lol

There us usually a oil bypass in the left hole, I removed it and plugged the hole and used det oil cooler warmer thingo

Bottom end assembled Dodgy piston stop to tdc the engine to set cam timing

Bit of hole hacking, notice how I didn't call it porting......

Det neo piston and rod top De neo piston and rod bottom

I did plan to measure the combustion chamber on the de neo head but simply forgot, i would expect them to cc the same as det neo. I used the runners from det neo with a plazmaman intake, only because i already had it setup on a built motor in the car previously

Ive just assembled a grenade so to speak, rb25de neo. From what i could see, De neo oil pump has shorter relief valve springs by about 10mm but rest of the pump looks the same as det neo. De neo rods look to be the same as hydro 25. De neo pistons have a slightly longer skirt and a little extra volume in the dome but pin height is the same as det neo. De neo block has no oil squirters, oil feed and return has to be drilled. De neo cylinder head uses same size valves and lifters as det neo, exhaust ports look to be same size, inlet can be ported out to det size behind the valves and up the divider however where the intake manifold bolts on will get fairly thin in places and wont match 100% without welding and grinding, but does still fit nice enough for a low buck build. I used det oil pump springs, gtr rods, arp head studs, supertech valve springs, tomei type b poncams, standard rings measured .014" top .018" second so back in they went. Probably limit boost to 2 bar and see how she goes

Hicas is electric on the rear of a 34. Mine had an air lock and shook like that, going from lock to lock on the stands made it better but had to sit it on the ground and do it again for some time before it went away. My car only goes for short periods so may have this problem next time it runs again.

I put a bit of red rubber grease on the inside of the seal and a light smear of gasket maker around the outside, loosen off the cam cap a touch, push seal in and retorque the cap. This might be completely wrong but it works for me.

I ran mine under the car where the standard lines were, just had to open up the plastic clips that held the old lines. I ran -8 feed -6 return, no surge tank in mine i just ran 2 walbro pumps in tank

Yep just unbolt it as well as the power steer pump and put a strap around them to hold to the side out of the way

Sold pending payment

My battery to #30 cable is 00 gauge and heavy insulated, bit overkill for 2 walbro pumps but at least its there for if i decide to relocate the battery later. In this case, like most cases bigger is always better ?