joshuaho96

When I had to do this for the front diff I removed the diff cover and spun the diff until I could see the axle inside the diff. Then I used a plastic pry tool with a simple flat edge that gradually widens to full width and a hammer. Jam the pry tool in and use a hammer until the axle pops out. As far as I can tell it did not mar or bend any other parts of the diff this way. My least favorite thing is scraping/prying something out with metal on metal so this was a foolproof technique for me and the car needed a diff oil change pretty badly anyways. Then I used a slide hammer with an expanding jaw puller to remove the seal itself. Be careful when you do this because it will suck to damage the seat of the seal. I expanded it into the rubber to keep it from marring the seat instead of trying to catch the back edge where it meets the seat. Another method I've seen since doing that job was a tool that hooks onto the outside of the axle and makes it possible to slide hammer the axle out instead of trying to use a pry bar.

I've had a new car with evap core freezing issues, seemingly related to low refrigerant charge. So not impossible but worth checking.

If it isn't the fan speed going down your evaporator core is almost certainly freezing over. Get the system evacuated and checked for leaks, then verify the compressor is working correctly.

I'm pretty sure you can get one at a fraction of the cost. The one I use is a Launch X431 for cars where I don't have the manufacturer-specific diagnostic software/cable.

Yes, a local mechanic near me uses his Consult II to do things like run the ABS pump for brake bleeds: Whether any of this stuff works if you use an aftermarket ECU is hard for me to say.

I like the idea of slightly better knock margin. Not really necessary though.

Codes for sensors can be something other than just the sensor. What's the code?

I still don't understand why there is seemingly so little consideration paid to heat shielding in most single turbo conversions.

Right, that was what I was trying to say but didn't quite make explicit. RBs are expensive to blow up for dumb reasons.

I wouldn't be all that concerned about coolant temps until 90C but sounds like it worked out for you.

I would run a fuel pressure sensor if I’m already doing the work to set up a flex fuel sensor because it provides a clearer signal of fuel pump failure.

Good to know I wasn't the only one suspicious, the meandering wall of text in the shape of a correct answer but ultimately wrong seemed like it was a spambot.

Either way that strut tower is an easy place to put it, both feed and return run under the plenum.

Depends on how you want to do it, you could either keep a running tally of the things you need to replace as you dig through it or just replace everything wholesale. I ended up doing the latter when I pulled apart my intake manifold and oil cooler/oil filter housing down to the hose clamps which were all replaced with factory constant tension spring clamps. I spent probably 100 USD alone on those stupid spring clamps. There is no factory provision for a fuel pressure sensor, you could put one after the fuel filter but before the rail though. That is a common spot for flex fuel sensors. I'm pretty sure that's the point that you're supposed to use when following factory service manual procedures for testing fuel pressure anyways.

Probably holds it together. The wing isn't adjustable.

Who in their right mind would buy journal bearing turbos just because they had HKS logos on them?

The coolant hose/vacuum hose line item is easily north of 500 USD these days if you really do replace every last hose and pipe that has questionable integrity.

~35,000 km is about right for PSS/street-oriented summer tires. Personally for track tires I would probably run something like the Ventus RS4s purely out of concern for the limits of a wet sump engine.

For -5s? Absolutely.

I forgot about that, I saw it on an R32 and found it strange but didn't think harder about it.

The main way to tell between an R33 RB26 and an early R32 RB26 is going to be minor stuff. The main difference will be the crankshaft which isn't visible without removing the oil pump. There's also differences in the knock sensor harness, but the actual knock sensors should interchange even if the factory knock sensor was not the same. Heater core hoses are different as well. For example the back of the block has a coolant pipe that is 05U07 for the R32 but 24U00 for the R33. The pipe that goes between the back and front of the block for the heater core and oil cooler is 05U15 for the R32 but 24U00 for the R33. The R32 also has a sensor (?) of some kind on the firewall in the heater core lines. Probably the easiest way for the untrained eye is to just look at the block serial number. It won't tell you exactly but it's close enough.

There is nothing inherently wrong with the idea. You are correct that you can remove/blank off the intake air regulator/AAC valve on the side of the OEM plenum. You will need to replace the OEM accelerator pedal with a DBW pedal and retune an Elite 2500 to suit. The barrier as far as I can tell is more practical than anything else as there's no easy kit to do what you're asking for. Most people seem to go aftermarket manifold if they're going to bother with DBW. Personally not a fan of most plenums out there but if I had to pick one it would probably be this one which appears to extend the runners more than most kits out there:

Have you pulled codes yet? Someone local to me had a no-start situation and they were confident it was a CAS issue until I checked the codes and found code 21/ignition primary open circuit.

https://www.wiringspecialties.com/rb26-injector-resistor-bypass/ Not sure of the exact connector source but Wiring Specialties has figured it out so it's definitely not impossible. If you do figure it out let us know, I'm curious to know where to get this stuff without paying hilarious amounts for individual plugs.

You should make sure that your ECU plugs are rated for USB levels of insert/disconnect cycles or you're going to need new connectors before long. Many connectors out there are only rated for say 50-100 cycles before they need replacement.