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Can somone provide an exploded diagram of the speedo, cable and the bits between them? I have pulled mine apart more, and basically what i have found is; The speedo itself is cracked http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/skyline/speedo.jpg but i dont think this is effecting it. The white match stick type connector is cracked, however I have glued that up and heat shrinked it (another thread suggested this) so that should be ok now. Now...the next problem is, the match stick type thing, it slides inside the big white cylinder ( http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/skyline/speedo01.jpg ) Inside the cylinder, there is a small spring, that is just floating around. Behind that is the speedo cable. It extends about 2mm into the cylinder. I see no way for it to make the match stick thing spin. So I am guessing my cable is broken. Can anyone tell me how the speedo cable attaches to the match stick thing? Perhaps I can fix it, but I can't see how it attaches. Maybe the match stick thing comes with the speedo cable? Also, where do I get a new cable from (perhaps if someone has a website link it will have a pic too, and answer a few of my questions) Cheers Chris

This is the reason I have brought this topic back. The problem is the Nissan dealer told me a $120 pump is the go, but told the 2 shops I rang that $380ish pump is the go. They are obviously different pumps. Seems the Nissan dealer isn't too sure. I will try the Rb30 pump and see what happens

I have had the same problem for a month now, this morning is the first chance I have had to look. The speedo is cracked similar to what is said here.... Is this the problem you are talking about? http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/skyline/speedo.jpg If it is, how do you get the plastic out to glue it together? I can't see how it's possible...the plastic is bigger then the hole in the metal it seems? Or were you talking about this part? http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/skyline/speedo01.jpg In the second pic, the match stick like end of the speedo cable - Should it spin if I drive? I went for a drive and it didnt move...so maybe it isnt the crack that is the problem in my case? How can I test the cable? Cheers Chris

Sweet, I will round them up and see if we can't make it

sweet thanx

I'm interested + 2 - 5 more people, I will see what I can organise Do they need to join SAU?

So it IS the RB30 water pump? 100% sure? Cheers Chris

alrighty thanx

Ok so you didn't do the Water pump then.. Can anyone confirm the water pump number?

Can anyone confirm these are the right parts for the RB20? When I called the Nissan dealer, they said that is the right parts, but when 2 workshops (not just one) called them, they were both told they needed a different water pump, which is worth $386?! HUGE difference. Mechanic said that he knows the RB30 and RB25 are different (the bolt hole issue others have mentioned) but he isn't sure about RB20. Thanks Chris

Gday Guys Anyone know where the nearest *reputable* suspension workshop is for Newcastle people? I am tossing up whether I should order the parts and get pedders to install, or just use what they recommend, or go to a shop with a good rep and get them to order and install. I have seen mixed feelings on pedders. Cheers Chris

Alright, Thanks mate. I just gotta decide what brand bushes to run now. Without changing the springs, I can't run Whiteline front, cause they only allow 0.5 degree change. And I need closer to 1 degree. The rear I could run whiteline tho. I can get 2 kits which will allow the adjustment I need. Pedders said with their kit they can get 1.5 degree change on the front (they wanted to aim for -0.5) , and 1.5 degree change on the rear. Is the stuff pedders use any good? Any need for me to fork out the extra for whitline? I'll have to see what noltec have. Cheers Chris

bump....SK see above plz

I wanted to go with an EBC so I don't have to worry about spikes. I don't have a (after market) boost gauge, and if I got a bleed valve, I'd want a boost gauge so I could watch it.... But I will check it out anyways. Thanks

Or, if I get one of these kits http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=74507 instead of the VSPL ($1150) I could get an EBC with the leftover...hmmm I wonder how much better the Trust one is

R32 GTST 4 dr stock except exhaust and hks springs. I am 24/male, garaged all the time, not a daily driver. Best I got was $1800 from famouscarinsurance. With a lifetime maximum NCB. Plus a rather large excess. So I just got Third Party Property, fire and theft at just cars for $800ish. I'll see how I go when I get to 25 As for growing up comment, I think a better solution is to not allow people under 24 to drive performance cars, that would make less accidents, and better prices for us (note: I am teasing you guys Don't take my bait! )

I fail to see why you'd bother doing it before you get the turbo? If it is just for looks, then give it a go, if you don't care about the looks then just wait till you get the turbo

Predator - YAY! Someone that understands the goods in a stereo I have been a car audio buff for a while now, and I decided I wasn't going to bother with the skyline. I managed to keep it down for 2 months...well almost 2 months. haha I am quite happy with the power, and I can drift 90 degree turns with the power I have... I havn't had the chance to do more than 90 degree turns as yet, but I may not need a power increase. Or I might suck at drift and not bother with it! And the stock car does everything else I need it to fine (motorkhanas) Cheers Guys,

Predator - YAY! Someone that understands the goods in a stereo I have been a car audio buff for a while now, and I decided I wasn't going to bother with the skyline. I managed to keep it down for 2 months...well almost 2 months. haha I am quite happy with the power, and I can drift 90 degree turns with the power I have... I havn't had the chance to do more than 90 degree turns as yet, but I may not need a power increase. Or I might suck at drift and not bother with it! And the stock car does everything else I need it to fine (motorkhanas) Cheers Guys,

Thanks guys. Anyone got photos of their installs? I was hoping to keep my boot 'tidy' as I was gonna do a custom sub install. So a battery in the boot causes problems for the idea. So a stealth install would be good (And also prevent metal gloves from shorting the batter out ) Then again, this may cause problems with CAMS... I might give them a call. For the record - I would use a sealed brattery, and a box around it.

Hey guys, thanks for the replies. Just to clarify, except the exhuast, and different springs, the car is standard. It will be staying standard for now. If I get a FMIC it would stay stock boost for now anyways. (No money for boost controller) I will be getting both stereo and FMIC, just I can only have one now and one later. I am not worried about the stereo losing value etc. What I am concerned with is if the car can handle drift/track days without the FMIC. My point is, it would be silly to go the next 3 months without the stereo if I don't need the FMIC. Of course, it would also be silly to get the stereo if the FMIC is needed. I don't mind which I get first, so long as the car is safe. If the car is safe, I'll probably choose the stereo now. Seems most seem to think it will survive. Some saying they do it now. I will only be learning to drift at the moment, so I won't be thrashing the car too much just yet anyways. Cheers Chris

Hey, Just curious, for drift and track days, running a stock R32 GTST (cept exhuast) will I need a FMIC? Or is the stock one good enough? Even if I get a FMIC right now, it will stay stock boost until I can afford a boost controller. I will put one on eventually, I am just prioritising ATM. I can have the FMIC now, and stereo in 3 months, or the opposite. If it's safe to run the stock cooler, I will take the stereo now, if it's not, then I will take the FMIC. I don't mind either way, so long as the car is safe. Cheers Chris

Hey all, I am sure this would have been discussed before, but I can't find it, feel free to link me if you can find a thread about this! I am looking at getting a Trust VSPL FMIC. It requires the piping to go through battery tray. I will need to relocate the battery. A few questions I have 1) Is there a tutorial anywhere? 2) What Cable Size do I need? 2 Guage? 3) What are the legal requirements? (ie. certain type of battery? Additional case?) 4) Anyone got photos of their install? 5) What size/type fuse do I attach onto it? 6) I plan to use the car on the track. Are there any additional requirements for CAMS? 7) Anything you can think of that I haven't? Thanks Chris

SydneyKid. Do you think I should look at rasing the car before anything else, or is it going to be ok as is? What are the effects going to be with it being too low? It is fine to drive..I am yet to scrape out on anything. Can you share with me the effects of having the car at this height. Assuming I fix the camber/Caster....what will be the problem with the hieght? Cheers Chris

ok, so i measured tonight. Front height from centre of wheel to gaurd = 330mm Rear height from centre of wheel to gaurd = 340mm Which is below the 350 you reccomended. So what how is this going to efffect the car? I wasn't planning on buying new springs.....