CEF33Y

Pulled the lid off and the afm and the joints look good. I do agree it seems like a bad connection though.

Cool, will give me some things to check first, thanks

Hey guys, I 've got a issue with my R33 gtst. Hoping to get some advice before I start replacing things. So, randomly, the car will start spluttering, missing. The only thing that seems to fix it is stopping, turning the car off then starting it again and its fine. It also seems random, I can do the 150km round trip to work and not have an issue. Yet the other day when it happened, I got out of the car with it spluttering, and noticed plumes of black smoke out of the exhaust, so its obviously running rich. Turned it off then back on, and it cleared up in a few seconds and was fine. So, at this stage im thinking AFM. or maybe temp sensor? So far i've changed spark plugs, air filter, pulled AFM lid off to check the solder joints (all ok). Cleaned the afm with contact cleaner. Checked all plugs on loom/sensors. Nothing has made a difference. Got 50 km into the trip this moring and again, spluttering, anything more than light throttle and it just dies. Would the 02 sensor affect this? Does the 02 sensor only work below a certain rpm? Tried putting it in 3rd (its auto) and the issue was still there. (so about 3700rpm). Any ideas? Cheers

That sucks about the engine damage, no way should you have worn the cost! Oh and I'm surely a minority, but would love to see you spend a bit of time on the RB20.

Hey guys, basically I'm on holidays down here, (devonport ) and the rear pads in the 33 are done, any places local that would keep them? Cheers

Yeah, that's what I was thinking, cheers

Hey guys, so I'm about to change the front struts on my gtst, and they don't currently have bump stops. And the kybs I just bought don't have them either. Are they needed? Car has kings lowered springs. Shop I got the shocks off are saying I don't need them but I'm not so sure. Thanks in advance

I Kept mine stock looking too, did similar to what GTSBoy's saying, ran the return pipe behind the cooler. If your handy with a welder that would be easiest/cheapest option, just get a generic core, make pipes to run from where they come out of engine bay to cooler. The bottom return flow type would have been too low for my car, but if your at legal height (guess so, cause you're keeping the rest stock looking it might be the easiest option, should come it kit form from just jap or the like. Actually, if your after less than 220rwkw, just get a r34 sidemount. easier again. Wow, prob confused you more, lol.

Updates! Gave it a bit of a service birthday over xmas, gearbox and diff oil change out. After some reasearch on mechanical diff's seems as though mineral based oil is the way to go, Ive only run synthetic. Anyway, just used some nulon mineral lsd oil, and wow, night and day, all the diff clunks and bangs are gone! Didnt think it would make such a difference. Not that much else happening, lots of driving, and a few drift days. Local drift club ran a private day at wakefeild, these days are the best, heaps of track time, laid back atmosphere. Car went faultless, had some fun. And, after almost 3 years on the road, its finally all white! Spare front bar is almost prepped for paint, so I can not have a stitched front bar for the street. Thats it for my 6 monthly update, lol

If you use the JJR dump, it might need some work with a die grinder to match the turbo, there is a few threads on grinding to suit. Or do what I did and cut the lower half away and open it up. As purchased Modified Unmodified, there was a 10mm step at the bottom of the flange, die ground as much as I could but still wasnt happy, so started cutting! lol I have a hypergear op6 highflow, and the highflow machining eats into the flange area, possibly more than a 21u highflow

This threads a good read mate, and how good was oran park? Still miss the drift days I used to do there.

Negotiable on price, throw me some offers

Hey guys, I have some speedy wheels 19's off the skyline I just bought, not really to my taste. Specs are 19x8 +35, no lipping of guards required (!) lol 225 35 Khumo's on front, almost new, I'd say 90% 245 35 no names on the back, just above wear markers. To put a SAU price i'd say $400 for the set, But preferably I'd like to swap other wheels, r33 stockies etc, maximum of 17 inch. Must have decent tread. Can do a cash adjustment if required, depending on wheels. Located between wollongong and Nowra. 0487699 zero three three

Man, series 2 front bumpers are the best! They seem pretty rare over here. Looking good.

Was good to meet some of you guys. Only did the mac pass run, was a fun drive considering the traffic. First time in a while I've done it during the day.

Any updates from superlap? I only went saturday, looked like you were having some more boost controller issues? Well, you had the solenoid off anyways. One of my fav's 31's.

Usually refered to as a forward facing plenum, but still clicked on it to see what a reverse plenum looks like, haha.

That block thats near the back of the plenum, that is your IACV (Idle air control valve) Its on the side of the plenum, between rocker cover and plenum, there is a screw facing towards the front, can see it in your first pic. See if adjusting that helps, you can take it right out/take the block off and see if its gummed up, might need a clean. This is assuming the iacv is still hooked up as it should be.

Holy shiiii, 3.8psi? Thought that was a typo! Any plans to run it on higher boost?

Yeah, when I give it a service before the dyno I'll confirm the engine mounts are good. I think the issue is i'm using a sr fan where a rb one should be, and I have a 50mm radiator, so things are not fitting like the factory intended. Im going to try and measure the fan deflection too, just to confirm how much its moving forward.

The radiator is mounted pretty tight, I made my own bushes out of a nylon material. The shroud is bolted at the top and cable tied (firmly) at the bottom, tbh I can't see that pulling back but its a possibility. Engine mounts are good. Also, the wear marks on the shroud are from the front of the fan, not side to side like engine mounts would suggest, Anyways, I'll will just trim the shroud a bit more, should be ok. Glad its not anything worse, going in for a touch up tune soon, dont want to hold that up.

So, found the issue. Pulled the fan shround off, some light evidence of the fan contacting the bottom of the shroud. Put it back together and measured, and there is 12mm clearance from fan to shroud at the bottom, must be a combination of fan flexing and engine moving around, seriously thought that would be enough room, but guess not. Ran with no shroud for the moment and noise is gone, car ran cooler too, but it is mainly freeway driving. Will mod the shroud before I put it back on. Here was I thinking my RB20 had some serious issue, haha should have known better.

^^^ Agree, is there even a PCV valve there? looks just like a fitting then hose to rocker cover. Will be sucking un metered air.

Thanks for the reply, Think i'll just bring the timing belt change forward and have a good look around, Oh and its only when the thottle is open, if I let the revs fall from high rpm there is no noise. Doesnt really do it in 1st gear. Noticeable in 2nd and 3rd. No air con fitted. Will have a closer look on the weekend.

Hey guys, I've got an issue with my RB20DET. When I let it rev out with the throttle only just open, (so no where near boost) around 4500- 5000rpm I am getting a clicking noise that dead set sounds like the engine fan hitting something. The fan has around 3mm of clearance with the harmonic balancer, assumed this would be ok as the fan flex's forward when pulling air through yes? Radial clearance to the shroud is fine, as I'm using a SR fan (they are smaller). The noise I think is still there under full throttle, i just can't hear it. Dont think the noise was there before I did the mods (highflow, nistune, profec b) and had it tuned. Im running a profec b boost controller, found one thread talking about the solenoid clicking, but if I'm on low throttle % and not on boost the solenoid shouldnt be working? Will unplug on way home today to rule it out. Its probably due for a timing belt in 10 000 km, although doubt anything in there could make that noise. Maybe? So before I pull the fan off to rule it out, any other ideas? Cheers