CEF33Y

Yeah, will investigate a bit further, cheers

Haha. Im still blowing out, I did a 1100km round trip over the weekend (after the oil change) and it was running sweet. Only drained the pan last night and went, wtf is this? So there isn't much legs on the "maybe its just a turbo theory?"

As in knock ears? Or like a screwdriver/breaker bar from block to ear?

So guys, Did an oil change on my cefiro, and found this in the drip tray when I was draining it. (tray was spotless before dropping oil) The thing is, apart from a slight lifter tick on stone cold starts the car has zero engine knocks/noises. Can hear injectors over everything else. 50-60psi oil pressure straight on start up, warm oil pressure at idle of 20psi. When on the track copping a caining the oil pressure at idle sometimes drops to 10-15psi. (with the car idling at 500rpm) Has been the same for the entire time I've had the car on the road. (almost 3 years) Oil changes never past 5000km, Always used motul 10-40w. Next thought is that its something from the turbo, but again, no noises, still boosting fine. (hypergear highflow, never over 20psi, running supplied oil feed hose, stock drain.) Yet to pull anything apart turbo wise, but am going to pull turbo oil drain off, and see if I can find any evidence, then check shaft play. I assume the filter would be stopping most of it, but I really don't want shit like this floating around in the oil, plus want to fix the issue before it becomes bigger. So, with that amount of metal in the pics above, if it's coming from an engine bearing, would you expect it to be knocking? Anyone had a turbo fail and experience similar? Have my RB20 days come to an end and now have the perfect excuse to go RB25det NEO? haha.

Geez, Ima stay out of this thread, I like the RB20 one better, haha

Try www.aus300zx.com

If you want a fast car, to keep up with toyota's and evo's an RB25 will produce a better result. If you increase the turbo size at all, you shift the power and torque up in the rev range. Might get a little back with cam gears. But a 400HP RB20 will need a thrashing to feel "fast" On the subject of toyota's, I drove a mates newly aquired JZX100 chaser. (VVTI version of the 1jz, and is manual) Holy smokes, there is real forward thrust from 1800rpm. It hauls.

RB20 Dyno thread would be a good start. You can reach your power goal without opening the motor (i.e forged internals). 400hp will not be responsive. I've got around that (at the motor) and it makes full boost at 5000rpm. It really does nothing below 3800rpm. But, drive it like a 2 litre engine with a (too big) turbo and its ok. Need to use alot of revs, but thats ok, becasue RB20's love to rev. Before modifying an RB20 you need to be ready for the lag. It is way to easy to throw alot of money at an RB20 and not be happy. If you can live with no real forward thrust below 4000rpm, then go for it. I notice from other threads you've stated changing motors to a rb25 or 26 is not an option, so, if you are going to buy a gtr in the future, and just want some more from your RB20 for now: Don't open the motor Don't stroke it (2.2 or 2.4) Don't do cams. Do get a hypergear highflow (or similar bolt on turbo, HKS 2530, 2535, maybe some modern garret options, I'm unsure of specs) Nistune and injectors Deal with the lag, be happy that you've made around 400hp about as cheaply as possible. Lastly, (again) look at the RB20 dyno thread, it will tell you what mods people have done, and the result, after looking at a lot you will quickly see some people do a lot of mods for no better result than others that keep it simple.

Hey guys, after the front wheel bearings/uprights for a R33 gts-t. Wheel bearings must be in serviceable condition. I can pick up anywhere from Nowra to Sydney. Cheers

I love these threads! All this talk of power v's response v's feelings, lol. For the record, (and to make most of you feel better, haha) I've got an RB20 making 240rwkw. At 4000rpm it makes 73rwkw. Ha. I love it. Its slow on the street. I get beaten by pretty much anything up to 60 (unless I launch it) Keeps me out of trouble, cause' to do anything silly you've got plenty of time to think about it before anything happens, by that stage I'm feeling guilty about what I'm going to do and back off. Oh and Emma Stone. 10/10

Can't believe I read all of this. I have no advice. Well one little gem, sell your skyline and buy something with more aftermarket knowledge and support, maybe a commodore. That way the bloke at Repco/Supercheap will have all of your answers, face to face. p.s why would you want to draw attention to your STANDARD suspension arms by making them glow in the dark? FFS what is this world coming to.

Wow, so by stock crank and rods you mean still stroker? i.e still rb26 crank and rods? Or RB20 crank and rods...?

Yeah, thats looking like the case. Thought the r31 house ones were just as expensive (if not more). Its not really surprising, given the rarity of the item. 6boost might have the job after all, lol.

Yeah I've noticed too, but holy cow at the price!. I know of one on here that sold not too long ago on here for sub 1000 I think. Unsure if I'll see any performance benefit (currently at 240rwkw with a highflow turbo) but mainly want it for the sound. Pretty sure the 6 boost t3 flange's are not split pulse, have spoke to Kyle for a quote on a low mount, but didn't ask if he could do a t3 flange split pulse.

Looking for a Gts-r manifold. Yes I know they're rare. I also know 6boost have done a gts-r "copy" manifold, but would prefer the real deal. Cheers

You know, even good, reputable shops have bad days, but this is on a whole other level. Hope Jez fixes it up and you get a result your happy with

By the time you get the $450 turbo, $300 rebuild kit, and someone to weld the elbow on, its sounding like a $800+ excerise, +time off road to rebuild if it fails. That's providing if the turbo fails parts don't go into the motor and kill everything. Hypergear highflow can be had for under $900 (check current pricing). Proven results. Meets your goals. Bolt on simplicity. Stock plenum would meet power goals, only real reason for a foward facing plenum is to make the bay look "neater" or reduce cooler pipe length. Can't remember ever seeing a performance gain from a FFP at that sort of power level on a rb20. Fuel pressure regulator you don't need. Tomei dump is nice, but not a "budget" option. Your ecu is a popular choice and seems pretty well supported. When I was looking at modding my RB20, I basically read the RB20 dyno results thread, hypergear thread, and kando thread. Absolute wealth of knowledge out there, from people who have done the same thing you want to do. But looks like you've already got the parts, so best of luck.

Do let us know how it goes, For a "budget build", there are a few parts there that you don't need I also made 324rwhp with my RB20, and the engine bay looks like this,

I had similar issues with my R33 s2. I had checked and resoldered the pins in the afm for the plug, made no difference, but it was actually dry joints on the afm board itself. Fixed those up and she's been apples. Also, is the z32 afm genuine? There are copies floating around

As the owner of a 240rwkw RB20 (op6 highflow) Id almost guarantee your car as it is would be quicker on the street than mine. Not sure if its been said, but for what your after, id think a 21U highflow from hypergear would be the best solution, bolts on, reasonably cheap. Retune and your away. Proven results Tao could possibly even swap your rear housing for a 21u when he does the highflow. Id almost think a 21u highflow wouldn't have much response difference to the stock op6 turbo you have now, but should do 230rwkw. Unsure on the kando response, never used one, but just adding my 2c regarding hypergear turbo's.

Wow.

So that graph above shows a difference of around 750rpm extra "lag" with return flow pipework? Is this a pretty typical result? I run custom return flow style pipework, with 2.5 inch pipes and a pretty tight radius off one end of the cooler. Have been wondering for a while if any gains were to be had from going a traditional front mount style pipes. My setup is laggy, but I think thats more to do with the turbo choice, and RB20 haha.

There are so many douch bags these days. I love it when someone obviously does something wrong (cuts you off/ pulls out infront of you/ doesnt see you while merging, etc etc) Then has the hide to flip you off when you get on the horn. I dont even. My father in law is one of these people. Being in the car with him is terrible. Yes he is a douch. Dont feel guilty, we all react to someones dumbshit behaviour at some stage.

Mine was doing similar things. Turned out to be dry solder connections in the afm. Check the main pins into the board, and joints on the main board, I had some there too.

So I checked the afm solder joints again, while I was resoldering the pins, I noticed 2 dodgy looking joints on the board itself, re soldered these, put car back together, and wow, it's never ran so smooth! Just thought I'd reply with how I went, for future searching purposes