Tangles

nice alex although Im not a fan of the huge wide rears for me, 18x9 all round would have worked nicely :sorcerer: look half decent tho dude

no it will need 30cm extra length I feel. or thereabouts or fitup a pipe from end of gtr exhaust to the cat converter - no big deal, buy 2 flanges and weld them up to a measured/cut piece of 3" pipe

rev can you link me to the diy mod to make it hold boost? this one : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...html&hl=bov ? "Crushing: "Crushing" the BOV just means sticking the piece in a vice and pressing the top had down causing the internal spring to shorten and increase pressure on the BOV valve." will try !! =D

my knees hurt from walking, sitting, sleeping wish the wernt in jars. 21 yay oh to be 21 again Im now hearing pin 37 on the r34 gtt power fc controlls the attessa throttle position sensor (rather than traction control for the r34 gtt) so tha should be ok. just pin 51 and use the zenode trick to pull it to 3.7v from 5v

a full plumb back (or atmo, its adjustable) GFB Stealth-Fx bov can be found for near-enough to the price as a gtr unit, if 3rd hand is good for you works great, bigger turbo holds boost better (was bleeding off too much), and it doesnt sound stupid in full plumb back mode, a little flutter of air reveberation between turbo and afm when you lift off the throttle ecu with safc (tuned to previous bov) works fine with it awaiting a hks actuator, so will retry stock bov but I feel that 16psi was a touch too much for it (dropped to 14psi all the time)

R33 GTR power fc ($1500 incl tune) 555cc injectors ($750) 044 fuel pump ($300) z32 afms or q45 afms ($550), or d-jetro model Powerfc and no afms (map sensor) full 3.25" exhaust system (3" would be fine) gtr fmic should be ok..... better check that full turbo kit incl manifold etc etc, HKS stuff brand new off ebay powerseller ($6000 for a big single 600HP kit) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-650HP-HKS-T04Z-...1QQcmdZViewItem or twin hks 2530's or gtrs's etc etc etc, ($3500) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-800HP-Twin-HKS-...VQQcmdZViewItem

thats what mine has..... R33 catback with lengthened section prior to rear muffler. Just Jap stainless steel bellmouth turbo dump and front pipe $220 high flow cat converter $180 r33 catback 'lengthened' pipe $0 was on car Kakimoto GTR hiflow muffler, all 3" $150 fitted was a Fujistubo muffler but needed something better flowing, sold it for -$100 so my highflowing exhaust cost not much at all sounds like a true RB engine with the highflow turbo and free flow exhaust. not too loud when normal driving, under the legal dB limit I feel, and the turbo is louder than the exhaust (from drivers position) above 4500rpm for a cheap catback system buy yourself a good 2ndhand brand name hiflow muffler and get the system welded onto new pipes, which are then bent and fitted, at a shop for say $200-50 ?

from pixl8r ages ago gotta love the stags

hohoo she's yours to wire up I'll give ya a kneecap in a jar. nah jokes alls good, will see what happens. got to get it first (ebay)

23 is a top age tomorrow grab ya bike license time for a thrill ?

that was my last mod 2 months ago- should have been the 1st mod 2yrs ago very tight shifting, very very happy with MV's work worried about the wiring up job tho for the powerfc ecu + pin 51 resistor trick (engine check light) + attessa system (pin 23 I think from power fc ecu to attessa ecu) but yeah not sure will get Bostwerks to do the job, but need all the info. got some, but I dont understand electronics lol hi

Sorry no sale of the piggybacks as of yet. I was going to do the $1300 drdrift ecu remap and run the piggybacks still with it all for finetuning, but I found the PowerFC kit for just over a grand. thought Id try it first, hold my piggy's and see how it performs for 6months (car + auto). plenty of auto R33 skylines run with the power fc successfully, I know a number in SA with varying degrees of mods (from 200rwkw to 330rwkw) just got to get the awd + engine + ecu + auto working smoothly, and then see how it goes. if I keep the setup, if it feels good, then I expect a rebuild of the box in ~3yrs time, to last another 7+yrs ............. nothing different to replacing gearboxes and clutchs and pressure plates and all that manual jazz. I wouldnt do this with the auto with out the quick shifting auto shit kit. Ign retard at gear changes wont be a huge factor over the long term, I hope, as Mike from MV Autos knows his skyline autos and this is the best shift kit going around. When the box goes I'll take it to him for a kevlar band rebuild jobbie, in liue of 3months of morgage payments and if it all isnt good at some stage, can still do the remap to the stnd ecu, and Power FC's will still be in hot demand for a rarish R34 GTT item **************************************************** anyway, what am I missing what wires need to be spliced and rewired - pics? any pics of the attessa ecu wire ? I'll get a tuning house to wire and install but I need to be prearmed with info but I dont understand this "use 10.3 Volt diode between ignition and pin 51"... what ignition - wire at ecu or wire at key insert, ??

we'll see what happens........ not sure about the auto box etc, so will be holding the safc/sitc for a while

Righteo I am awaiting an R34 GTT Apexi Power FC unit with hand controller and Boost controller For a Series 1 automatic Stagea what is needed to get it going. 1st. get an Automtaic shift kit valve body actuator modification done. firm up the shifts. far far quicker than the sloppy stnd shifts. get it ready for the PFC auto shifts. 2nd. install R34 GTT PFC unit and wire up. 3rd. split TPS wire (pin #23) into 2 with one from the ECU to the rear Attessa ecu to give it a tps signal. confirm? 4th-A. either use 510k ohm resistor from Throttle motor sensor signal (pin #51) on ecu to ground or 4th-B. use 10.3 Volt diode between ignition and pin 51, and a 400 ohm resistor between earth and pin 51 what am I missing?

with the auto make sure you get the shift kit mod done b4hand talk to Mike at MV Autos in blackwood SA awaiting my gtt pfc now, cant wait

w00t r34 gtt power fc coming my way S1 Stagea, auto

Bought a R34 GTT Power FC with Boost Control kit will take a while to get it, and will need to save for the tune. will report how it goes in an Automatic 1997 S1 Stagea RS4-v awd (auto with MV Autos customized shift kit)

Bell mouth Just Jap stainless steel R33 dump pipe (2yrs ago) fitted my Series 1 auto Stagea perfectly. was $220 delivered by memory. fitted by tuners with other stuff at the time.

are you going to buy it? they are an awesome family car... my wife hated my selling the V8 and buying my 97 stag (her sight unseen) the little dip you talk about is 'normal', a little piggyback SAFC will fix if for sure - just do the performance mods at once then tune it. ie finish off the dump pipe, fmic, fuel pump, boost to 10-11psi, tune safc.

disagreement is good, mmmm'k? my slide hasnt seized up yet nah I dont drive like I stole it. with an oil only cooled turbo a little flashing light would be in my brain (get out!!) saying "cool down first". dont get that with the water/oil cooled turbo - mainly "kill them all" but thats for my psychologist to work on.

sounds good then yeah my thinking for my slide turbo was $800 over 2 yrs is a good deal. got thru 1 yr / 6000kms with it now. nothing against oil cooling only, just you will HaVe to make sure it cools down properly prior to shut down, with water+oil cooling I must admit I dont worry too much about it.... slow down for last km or so, hit driveway, switch off. with oil only Id be turning on my turbo timer, and that has been switched off since day one of owning the stagea.

yeah oil only I believe it's gonna get hot, damned hot; you'll need to be religious with your cooling-down methods I paid ~ $800 for the slide turbo (not available now) and am damned happy with my value for money if it lasts another year then yes I'll be satisfied, and hopefully then I can afford a 2k turbo

I wouldnt buy a journal bearing turbocharger that ISNT both oil and water cooled. Best bet would be to ring around (yellowpages, search turbochargers) and get quotes for a Rb25 turbo HighFlow job, say "Stage 2" ie big bore to the intake & exhaust housing, 360degree thrust bearing oil and water cooled see what response / pricing you get. One company out there would surely do them, ie like the Slide highflow Turbos (yes I have one, very happy, but having owned it for a year there would be no way that I would accept a turbo that isnt both oil and water cooled) and I say thrust/journal bearing as they are roughly 50% cheaper, at least, than a BallBearing equivelant. my journal turbo is above boost pressure at 2400rpm and is at full boost at 4000rpm (1.1bar) from standing start, and hits full boost at 3500rpm when already "on the go" say at 80kmph when I tromp it thru to 110kmph

T3 flange, with rb20/25 exhaust housing Either R33 or R34 "Neo" turbo are bolt on standard turbo's an R32 turbo would be a backwards step - small exhaust housing scour the for sale ads for a high flow turbo or take your shagged turbo in for a rebuild, where they bore out the intake and exhaust and use new core and new bigger steel wheels (and compare the highflow quoted prices against the GT28RS) search ebay, sometimes a R33/34 turbo comes up for sale

TNT Express would be very competitive. My GTT 17" mags cost around $130 (with tyres) from syd to adelaide, and my stock 16" (with tyres) was around the same to send to Syd. Melb to Adelaide would be around $100- only thing is they need to be bubble wrapped, air bled from tyres, and cardboard covering the spokes etc. Im VERY tempted. alas tho I already have 17"s that Im happy with - Mind You I will seriously consider these (one of mine has bad inside gutter rash, seller never told me about them, Satanic!!!!)