Tangles

that'll need a rebuild So - 2nd Yr Radiaton Science completed. Yay! Just a few weeks of clinical placement, then some time off. Seems just the other day that I woke up one morning on rock bottom (when I probably shouldnt have continued breathing), decided to change for the better & went cold turhkey off the Duragesic - a hard core opiate med, got into a course with a 99 TER a couple of months later, and now half way there to a satisfying career. Should have bought bitcoins tho

I got Sunitrac 235-40-18 for 125$ ea on the rear. Nothing like the semi slick Pzero Corsa it replaced, but ok for normal driving.

Koyo is a good brand....

I'm good after Xmas.....

Agree ^ same as the rear lip on my 97 Dayz kit.

0427 803 556

Stagea, 8k firm - highly modified http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/380883-sa-1997-nissan-stagea-rs4/

Yup, chat then Pete. Have a top chrissy to round off the year

Yeah, can be Running well with the new battery - currently end of first tank since replacing & gotten 10% better fuel economy What any buyer needs to know it that she, my beautiful stagea, needs her power tune done eventually. I just cant as Ive got no coin Was 255kw on dyno prior to rebuild, was 235kw with the touchup of the run-in tune. Youd be hoping for a nice punchy 270kw at ~17psi, turbo is rated for 20-1psi from ATS Besides that, its what youd expect from a 1997 vehicle, albeit a fairly modified example.

Theres heaps more parts that Ive forgotten about over the years..... New battery installed last week. Runs well, but rich.

Sounds same as mine, besides S15 injectors & ATS gt3076 highflow Good luck with the tune - ive got a chipped remaped ecu + injector controller (fic/8)

Good post ^ Doed your ecu support two maps? Could tune it for both Cant go wrong with Garrett, although I'd have looked into the gtx3071 perhaps Mainly for the down low get up & go factor Dont be worried about others opinions, its your car. If it was me I wouldn't have gone HG, just saying (my opinion lads, Garrett is top shelf....) You asked the question, did your research, made a decision. That's what the forum is all about Car specs?

215kw, LOL more like 270kw (with the supporting mods such as injectors, ecu, tuning, etc)

It is what it is Mike ........ moving on, a great toy for someone to get stuck into. all the building blocks are there, give it some love. Im dead broke (Uni student - Med school, plus a single parent) & cant give it any time, money or love would probably buy (swap?) a mid-2000's commodore wagon with same Kms, just something basic but reliable

stagea firm price, 8k. engine alone is worth that, easy. AS-IS; havent a cent to my name so I cant do anything with it http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/380883-sa-1997-nissan-stagea-rs4/

yeah, probably time to move on. Nothing in mind, just a replacement to get from A to B. havent got a cent to my name, being a student and all that, so its a shame that the car is being babied and doesnt have the owner being able to put some funds into it (tune, mirror rust, etc.). if it were to get a defect Id be screwed and thats my main concern in all honesty. fuel goes quick. needs that tune! either sell and move on, or keep and get new wheels when Im working in a few yrs time while I strip & track it (or put it all in a GT4) would love to do some events in the future, so there is always another option..... worth more in parts than whole, ie block/head/turbo is the 8k.

BUMP. Now at 125,000kms. Needs the full tune done Rust under mirrors needs to be fixed Priced at 8k firm, as is

Thinking about selling. 8k FIRM I reckon. Adelaide. Rebuilt engine (forged) requires a tune, she's been run in enough. The basic tune after run-in was 230-odd rwkw. Tomei cams, GT30 turbo, S15 injectors should be enough for 270+kw. All work done by Boostworx Rust under mirrors needs to be fixed. 1997 Series 1 Nissan Stagea RS V Four Station Wagon, 125,000kms, forged RB25DET engine, Attessa 4wd, Automatic, Rebuilt at 118k Silky Snow Pearl, Dayz bodykit Engine: Bosch 040 fuel pump with direct battery feed at 13.8volts Splitfire coil packs NGK BCPRE6 0.8mm copper v-groove spark plugs Davies Craig automatic transmission oil cooler upgrade kit MV Automatic manual electronic shift kit & auto service kit Koyo Radiator upgrade Greddy remote oil filter relocation kit Fujimoto sump plug drain valve Catch can kit Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator Nismo Z32 Air Flow Meter 3” JustJap stainless steel single dump pipe system , with 3” de-cat pipe 3” cat-back exhaust system with Magnaflow mid-muffler and Kakimoto GTR Racing rear-muffler Cold Air Radiator air guide for cold air induction Apexi power intake pod filter, using standard snorkel air feed & under body feed Trust 600x400mm FMIC bar & plate, with custom hard pipe kit Hard pipe turbo intake kit Garrett 18psi heavy duty turbo actuator Garrett GT3076 700177-5015 IWBB Turbocharger with ported Nissan 45V4 front / AVO .73 rear housings - 60mm diameter 84-trim GT30 turbine and 76mm diameter 7/14 bladed compressor wheel JDM S15 Silvia 450/480cc injectors CP forged pistons, with complete engine rebuild ARP head stud kit Ported, Flowed & Machined headwork including new valve seals, valve seats and valve guides EPP Clear camgear timing cover Cometic gasket kit including rocker cover, intake manifold, intake collector & exhaust gaskets Cometic head gasket 87mm x1.2mm Aerospeed adjustable exhaust cam gear pulley wheel Tomei 256 intake / 256 exhaust poncam camshaft set Tomei 8.8mm high lift springs Tomei oil gallery restrictor 700177-5015 GT30R Turbo CHRA Specifications: compressor wheel inducer size: 57.02mm compressor wheel trim: 56mm compressor wheel exducer size: 76mm turbine wheel inducer size: 60mm turbine wheel trim: 84mm turbine wheel exducer size: 54.8mm Suspension: Bilstein front and rear suspension shocks, with ‘lowering’ circlips, using standard springs Whiteline front and rear heavy-duty adjustable sway bars Dayz adjustable engine swaybar Whiteline front castor kit Whiteline rear subframe pineapple alignment kit Ox_Wheels 18x8.5” +35offset Pirelli Pzero Corsa semi-slick 235/40/18 tyres at front basic 235/40/18 tyres (new) at rear Brakes: R32 rebuilt rear brake calipers and discs, braided lines R32 rebuilt front brake caliper, CZP brake bracket, 324x30mm drilled track rotors Cusco brake master cylinder clamp QFM A1RM front and rear track brake pads Audio: Clarion stereo tape unit with 6-stack cd player Clarion amp mounted to enclosure for Clarion 10inch subwoofer Pioneer 260w 4-way front door speakers Eclipse 80w 2-way rear door speakers Interior: SAAS D1 Drift adjustable race seat Flynn racing seat rail Apexi electronic boost gauge AEM F/IC-8 Piggyback ECU with Dell c640 latitude laptop Greddy Profec-B spec-ii dual stage Electronic Boost Controller, set to 1.00 bar and 1.20 bar Toshi ecu remap Boostworx tuned 249rwkw pre-rebuild, 232rkwk after rebuild on run-in tune Bad Points: Under mirror rust bubble hasnt been attended to as yet. Under rear guards the paint has chipped since the guards were slightly rolled. Minor scratches on the roof from some low-life.

Boostwerx for tuning, at Dry Creek. See Shaun Dunns there.... I use and recommend Or go see Martin Donnan at Willall Racing.

Nice little car there Matt Hope you and family are tops !

Oh no. speeding find, 6km over First one for me since 2000. Same road too!! (west tce) My bad - must pay more attention to the cruising speed. What would be good is a speed limiter that is adjustable. Press a button up or down to preset to a determined speed that the engine wont go over...... Sooo cant afford it, but you do the crime so do the time

Thanks lads. Fiona ended up signing to buy a 2009 Nissan (yay!) Murano Ti from Main North Nissan. 48000kms, deep Saphire blue. 27k drive away Its one with the lot. Pretty impressive car.

Pffft, buy my S1

Pretty sure you just need the R32 gtst ecu from an AUTO. Nistune that board. Then the hard part is rewiring the 3-lines of pinouts of the S1 to the 2-lines of pinouts to the R32. Keep in mind that there are wiring differences in S1 ecu's.......

Correct me if Im wrong..... I baby my RB25 (rebuilt) these days. If I DO flatten it (very rarely, like once in 800kms) a nice cloud of black smoke is left behind. Just carbon deposits in the exhaust, plus richness of tune?