paulr33

correct if boost increases, so will map sensor voltage but if the car is setup for 22 psi once the map sensor see's 22psi it will be lets say 3.8v this is then used to give the ecu its LOAD value and place it on the load axis - as the boost controller is set to control boost to 22psi - boost won't change until gearchange - therefor the map sensor value wouldnt change when the afm maxes out say at 5000rpm at 22psi boost will still be 22psi but more air will be coming into the system the afm will ceiling at 5.0v and show no more load - so the same result, LOAD on the ECU level wont increase and it will run across the last axis used so in either way you have to just juggle the afr's and ign timing on the last row it runs across and you loose some map points

when is the afm maxing out? if its up in the top rev range then its no different to map sensor style setup with a map sensor style setup once you reach target boost load never increases so you run across the horizontal axis on the map the same thing will happen when the afm maxes out, it will hit its ceiling limit and wont increase - so youll run across the horizontal axis on the map in both cases when load stops increased more air is coming into the engine so you are no better or worse off the only time i wouldnt think this would be a good idea was if you were maxing the afm at say 3000rpm

speak to capa or apss (air power systems) and get a twin turbo kit its the easiest way to turbo a v8 with re-doing bucketloads of crap a twin gt28ish would be plently enough for a good chunk of 500rhwp id expect

upi imports in moorabbin if they are still around

correct - the max values are the ceiling values at any one time - not all at the same time etc

42deg at 6 grand doesnt sound right are you sure your reading it correctly and not just looking at the max value? when you press UP it just shows you the max value for any given time - not at the current point in time 42deg ign timing would have been around 3000rpm ish or a bit lower - which is normal 15deg ing timing at idle is normal - also before you get a full time - make sure the mechanic does base idle ign timing check & set with a timing light 42deg ign timing at 6k on load will destroy the engine - which is why it sounds like your reading it wrong most gtst's run around 20deg ign timing up near 6k RPM

just make sure the injectors are all on %100 and nothing else is changed it sounds fine hitting 95% at 6k isnt a big deal, as long as it doesnt do it at 4000rpm it should be fine and it will be on stock maps so it will be considerably richer than it will once its fully tuned - the afr's (could) well dip into the 9's at 6000rpm which is stupid this will just drive up the duty and waste fuel etc - under normal conditions it will be around 12 so duty would be considerably less if this is the case plonk it on a dyno and see what comes out - in the mean time if you insist on driving it and trashing it learn how to use the ign correct feature under SETTING, INJ/IGN ADJ and back out a few deg of timing to clear away the knocking issue you are seeing

SETTING, INJECTOR what do you see in here? yeah a knock of 60 is pretty high and could be causing damage - hence why the engine light comes on stop flogging the car and loading it up until you get it sorted

hi abu this is all covered in the powerfc faq - have a read and youll find all the answers when you got the unit did you perform an ETC, DATA INIT or did you just do the self idle learn procedure? the engine check light (as covered by the faq) comes on when knocking goes past 60 or when inj duty goes past 98%

it doesn't use g force sensors it piggybacks off the ABS computer and watches each wheel's speed to detect wheelspin does your abs work ok ?

COM needs to goto the wastegate PORT needs to goto the intercooler pipe work or vacuum line from the manifold if you dont connect PORT the car is running unlimited boost and you'll do damange if you load the car up and hit boost

well given what youve said your cars damage is gonna be a few $k easily if you have full comp then pay the excess and both cars get fixed no mess no fuss if you only have 3rd party then its probably still worth making a claim to get her car sorted

hi pete, the a-lsd light will stay on if the unit fails diagnostic or there is a fault the common things to check for is there enough fluid in the resivour in the boot (right hand side) when you turn the car onto ACC do you hear the pump run? (its underneath the car on the right hand side under the petrol cap area also check any fuses etc - has anyone been fiddling with wires etc? what ecu ?

safer & faster is possible it depends if boost is going spastic to like 1.3 bar it will suck poo - the intake charge will be so hot

zero

yeah i know i was there today when i got the first batch of oil but by the time i had done it and failed they were closed anyhoo all sorted - i might be intereted in that tool case you have for sale

yes it will, unlimited boost means; pressure in the manifold isn'y held back by anything so it will just rise to whatever the turbo compressor wheel can supply this will stress out lots of components in the engine such as seals, valves, joiners etc as pressure will be around 1.3 bar somewhere if its the stock turbo this will also dial in a truckload of heat into the intake charge which will induce poor performance and detonation city instead of the intake charge being say 35 deg air temp at 10psi it could be 65deg air temp at 1.3 bar it will cause more detonation, risk lots of components and generally be a time bomb you should see the stock boost guage or your aftermarket guage fly past 1.0 bar and rise way past it

try here http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/ be sure to note where COM and PORT go for the powerfc boost kit which uses the same parts etc How do I hook up the optional Boost Controller kit? The optional boost controller kit for the Power FC consists of the pressor sensor, pressure sensor harness and solenoid. The solenoid should be plumbed between your manifold and the wastegate actuator (internal wastegate setup). For external wastegate setup it should be plumbed between the manifold and your external wastegate pressure line. The pressure sensor should be plumbed in parrallel with the factory MAP sensor which is used by your standar boost guage. The solenoid has two labels on it, you should match them accordingly COM line should goto wastegate actuator NO line should goto intercooler piping It can be T'eed into the plumbing with its included T piece fitting.

pipes backwards or around the wrong way will also cause this basically its running unlimited boost it sounds like if this is the case - then the wastegate never opens so usual culprits are air lines or vac hoses backwards to the actuator never gets a pressure signal other known suspects can be the wastegate flap hitting the turbo housing if its a new turbo / dump setup etc check the actuator rod with a pressure gun it should be move freely with say 10psi of pressure (or whatever spring you have)

hey all thanks for the help i got some oil sorted - im a stupid head and didnt realise the local servo would have some oil - shell premium 10w40 just cost me $70 though for those who want a laugh brought some new 10w40 turbolight 4100 and i dropped the sump bolt, get rid of the old oil, no worries ripped off the old oil filter, got the new oil filter, rubbed some oil on the seal and put it onto the engine little did i realise the old oil seal was still on the engine so when i fitted the new one they both clamped up real tight it felt like it was going on normally so i thought it was fine - sump bolt back on - filled her up gave it a crank good oil pressure around 3kgm2 and oil spewing out everywhere - doh!!!!! so had to drain it all - didnt have a prefectly clean container so had to ditch the new oil didnt want to risk dirt etc so drained it all out, refitted sump bolt, removed the filter, and lo- and be hold the old seal was there too - woopsies anyway - an hour later - some frustration and swear but all good

hi, long shot but maybe someone has some new oil not used at home? after an oil change gone horribly wrong i need approx 4 liters of 10w40 oil to suit GTST will pay beer or cash or both as i need the car working im in tullamarine - can come pick up if need be with another car

i think you will find its not worth it it might be 5kw midrange difference - spend it on suspension or something given 1k is a reasonable price for cams fitted

Merry Christmas to everyone in Skylines Australia VIC and associated members, friends etc Wishing you all the best for the festive season, have a merry & safe one

you can use a vl commodor afm plug, its the same and its cheap but youll have to cut the wires and wire it into your GTST wiring you can check out my site which has the wiring diagrams and how it connect it up - the afm will max somewhere past 300rwkw http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/diagr...ter-wiring.html & here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...html&hl=z32

oh ok sorry - so the engine was just put back in the car? id say something is loose, like a hose clamp, intercooler pipe work, the air vac lines for the actuator etc - something along those lines?