paulr33

what ecu? what diagnostics does it have? have you checked the basic sensors - afm or map - water temp - cas do you have spark? use a screwdriver tapped onto the engine block & try to crank it do you have fuel? undo the fuel line and see if you have fuel coming out do you have air? check the air inlet / afm or map sensor lastly with whatever ecu you are check some of the basic sensors even the std ecu has built in diagnostics to debug why it wont start

for those interested in have been doing the technical articles myself in my own time if you think you have something useful to submit please do so, its not just locked to commitee members for content we are particulary interested in a good cheap modifications that may help or provide better use for your car (or cars) some things in the past we have covered in the technical arena; - tyres - brakes - seats - ecu's so it can be anything from a simple modification to a very complicated one if you have some content questions please contact any member of committee including myself

do a standard check for any obvious things and even try touching some of the air lines to see if it varies the idle note also check the AAC valve (theres a howto thread in the tutorial) and give that a clean low idle rpm can be caused by a few things; dirty AAC valve low battery voltage or strange dwell settings low RPM setting in SETTING, REV airleaks or dodgy connections for the airlines

hi, it wouldnt say its bad for the engine but i would look into fixing it however the timing when the powerfc is running the idle control is locked and you can't vary it from any settings so if you run mega spastic ign tming (like i do) the idle should be locked to 15deg (with correction) and you can just magically set it to idle at 22deg for example. an offset CAS sensor will cause this however so make sure your base timing is correct. if you do MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, REV, what do you see at idle? the stock maps on the FC arent to aggressive they are pretty conservative but they do usually knock if you just install the ECU and trash the pants off the car. the solution is to either use the temp IGN adjust to back out some timing, use some higher octane fuel or get it tuned properly 1 & 3 are the recommended solutions - theres no need to remove the FC, its a stand alone ecu just make changes as needed and away you go

hi robert, the avcr boost control system uses the same solenoid and pressure sensor and probably the same main logic code to control boost. both can set duty and vary the duty cycle for the solenoid to control boost. the powerfc has a safety fuel cut if boost rises 0.25kgcm2 over the target boost setting so it has an extra insurance policy built in if you use it. the avcr has two extra features that i know of over powerfc boost kit - gear judge - the powerfc does not have this - boost screamble - the powerfc does not have this the powerfc has 4 boost 'profiles' however - each profile has its own boost setting in kgcm2 so say 0.85kmg2 and its own corresponding duty so you can hi / low boost profiles and vary the duty cycle etc to change them you need to use the hand controller and select the active profile via SETTING, BOOST all in all the boost control kit is probably fine for most applications and setup and its cheaper too,. just without the screen & gear judge

doesnt look good does it

the main noise comes from the induction side on the turbochargers predominately the gtr twins are much quieter than the gtst single turbo setups you can make it louder by opening up the the intake path and/or removing the restrictions but its likely to suck in hot and dirt etc - the usual twin pods will make it a big louder try removing the panel filter and go for a boost around the block - should give you an idea what it will sound like with a twin pod kit be warned dont do this for long as your running open mounted turbo's any level of dirt could shag the bearings etc

a few things come to mind you can check out HKS CAMP which is an old legacy product which does a similar thing to a tv screen you can do something yourself and another thing that comes to mind is the very subtle apexi i-crusing check out this little device, very nifty - i would have brought it myself but it requires the consult port and the powerfc doesnt emulate the consult port so it will only work on the stock ecu http://press.che168.com/new_article/pic/ar...09124554189.jpg http://www.keiyo-parts.co.jp/i-cruising.html

im in

happy bday & all the best have a good one !!!!

yeah 1k tune thats nuts it would want proof every single cell was changed from the stock maps $400 seems much more reasonalbe and they are $1000 on ebay now a days the demand seems to have dropped off ive seen two from memory go for around $1000 on ebay

good luck on it think you wont gain anything

congrats - looking forward to working with you again

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it wont add any power at all if you do fit one and it keeps filling up time to fix the source of the problem some people fit them to catch heaps of oil in the intake, this isnt a fix its just masking the problem it could be shagged oil seal on the turbo etc

its good for a laugh i spose but thats about it most of it is toys and other accesories and dvds etc

me & jess are in

yes this is correct, as its a portable wideband sensor kit and not a permenant one it was setup to be temporarily setup like this on your car so that it ran as soon as the earth terminal was connected. instead of being say on a cigarette lighter plug that could be bumped or unplugged they chose to direct hard wire it. if you run the sensor in the exhaust stream and it looses power you risk frying the sensor, hence the hard wire method so it cant "loose" power only took about 30 seconds to install

to be honest oem / hitatchi pads work really well i had them then changed to ferroddo's and they suck the wang, wish i had of stuck with the oem's

powerfc - there are 4 on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Apexi-Power-FC-Hand...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com.au/APEXI-POWER-FC-Skyl...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Apexi-power-fc-to-s...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com.au/APEXi-POWER-FC-COMM...1QQcmdZViewItem the last one is the older style PFC so prefer the top 3 before the last one - its the older firmware or new powerfcs are $820 delivered but its not worth getting a GTR one and modding it

happy bday have a good one

draw a diagram in ms paint of your setup where does the pfc boost kit get its signal from where does the guage you are reading get its signal from

theres no real DIY on how to do it the screen is connected to the main FC board with a 20 pin connector if you need to extend this connection you could use an IDE cable that's long enough as its fairly dense and has 40 wires so you only need half the guys on the rx7 forums have done this and thats all there is too it.

its located in the front passenger foot well, behind the panel just remove it and youll find it there