WazR32GTSt

intercooler still for sale? is it the cooler with entry/exits on the same side? and what size? and what condition? cheers, Waz.

g'day mate, is the supra intercooler the one with entry/exit on the same side? and will this fit on an r32gtst? also, what condition is it in (ie leaking/damaged?) thanks, Waz.

what kind of modification are we talking about to fit the gtst?

i'd say its available for viewing at: www.hpi.com.au

i'm looking for stock sideskirts if you have them please PM me with a price/colour/condition... cheers, Waz.

my similar symptoms turned out to be blocked injectors which cost $90 to clean (not including labour as they are piss easy to remove, just hard to put back in) fixed cold starts and a slight miss i had at idle

a set of ngk coppers costs $20 and works just as good. all it means is that you have to change them evey 10,000kms but you know that each time a fresh set is going in and the car will purr again...

i am running a gfb bleed valve with my auto r32gtst and it works a treat! doesn't spike (although the hoses are very short) which many people claimed thaty would happen. from what ive read the turbosmart ones are the most unreliable, while turboXS makes a very good one. GFB also no problems from first hand experience. it actually loses about 1-2psi above 5000rpm but that i would expect from the stock turbo at 11psi and i don't think this is a bleed valve issue so much. good luck and happy buying! Waz.

mate, all i can think is that there is something blockign the hose that you are plugging into. try replacing the hose comletely not just 'tapping in'. good luck! Waz.

a five dial??? i believe pauline hanson once said (before she went to jail for being a racist f***) "please explain"

i have seen this short film and i really liked how it progressed in fact, if this were made into its own full movie it would make for one great watch i believe... especially since the main car would have to be the GTR and how he does it up and finds parts for it etc...

yeah i agree predator i use penrite hpr10 which is semi-synthetic 10w50 and it runs good. seriously it doesn't matter as long as you change every 5000kms...

i would be definately be in for that... start a poll with the location of the dyno and stuff and see how many ppl are interested

look for a beaten up old VL turbo shitbox nssan motor and you are guaranteed that the body is crap!

looking for an SAFC, the older blue screen one who has one? price? c'mon this is a great excuse to upgrade to the powerFC like you have always wanted to do... cheers, Warren.

yeah what's the deal with "bass out"?

yeah 1.0 bar = 14.3psi = 760mmHg use your head to do conversions: x bar (yuor reading) * 14.3 = your reading in psi or x bar (your reading) / 7.6 * 14.3 = your reading in mmHg for those who have a stok boost gauge on a gtst...

yeah you may as well just start with cold air to begin with i think... i ran a pipe, albeit smallish, up to the stock box with high-flow panel filter in my car. worked a charm although i have to clean the filter and box more often now than before... plus its relitavely free so worth it if you're bored! PS if you are looking to find some pipe, the BEST place is clark rubber - i looked everywhere and this was the cheapest way to get pipe that was free-flowing inside...

heaps of info here people... thanks! i don't plan on doing too much more for the car after this... after all i'm applying for more uni courses next year after this degree and will probably be a student for a few more years (no dosh in other words ) hmmm i'm thinking an SAFC is the way to go... i'm not worried about detonation as its an rb20 which has a lower compression ratio to the rb25's (in the r33) and so can take boost a little better... now my next dilemma... 1) who has an SAFC that they want to sell?? c'mon, you know you want to upgrade to a powerFC!! 2) and also what should i look at paying for a second-hand SAFC?

thanks for the relies - i don't expect to get 60rwkw i was just putting up that there are gains to be had... - who's gunna by my old 'cooler? some idiot with an older turbo car without any cooler?? let's hope so - the $600 i have put aside includes what i would be paying for a dyno tune to get things perfect... - as my car is an auto i won't be able to get a powerFC... if i put on a FMIC won't it just richen things up even more? plus with a SAFC i can re-tune as i do more things... am i on the right track here? others let me know what you think...

oh i didn't know that about prahran coz i don't go there... yeah jimmys is pretty shit after a while coz u see the same faces all the time but eh. when the bourbon and coke costs $2.50 all night then no one is complaining!

it almost sounds like the AFM has been unplugged and the car has gone into 'limp home' mode where it runs MEGA ritch and doesn't rev over 2000rpm...

best airfilter = k&n panel filter that slots into the stock airbox. this means your car is still roadworthy (pod = unroadworthy) and has an equal gain as a pod. you could even route a CAI into the stock airbox best bov = stock bov, unless you are running above 20psi with your aftermarket turbo. they won't leak at any psi that the stock turbo will run at and it you get one that vent's externally then your car will have stalling problems. i have the setup mentioned above and i can hear induction noises loudly and can hear the bov when i turn my stereo off. hope this helps. cheers, Warren.

well as with all cars in japan, almost everything could be optioned in but m-spec governs: - 4 pot front brakes and 2-pot rears - different front bumper (option of electrical front-lip thingo and option of side skirts) - rear wiper - different steering wheel - velour seats not sure of anyting else but the main reason (well a eason on its own) to ensure you get a M-spec are the 4-pot front brakes which are the same as those on the Z32 300ZX. hope this helps, Warren.

i have an R32gtst with 3" exhaust from the turbo, high-flow panel filter in the airbox, CAI, and bleed valve to about 11psi. but, its an auto in 2 weeks i finish my exams and have time free... and i have about $500-600 to spend... now comes my dilemma... i'm thinking either 1 of 2 options: 1) i was thinking of getting a 2nd hand SAFC and dyno tune to get the fuel mixtures right as i know i am running rich with the stock ECU. but woud it also be a good idea to put in a transmission cooler to ensure the like of my auto 'box? than i would mount a 2nd hand motorbike radiator fan behind the stock 'cooler to help cool-down after use (and the CAI+fog lights are partially blocking the airflow anyway). 2) my other thought was to get a 2nd hand jza80 supra FMIC intercooler (has inlet and outlet on same side) and mount this. i could sell my old cooler to get some money back, and use the stock pipes but with a bit of extensions to reach the supra front-mount. this option would probably be cheaper and better for protection, although its an rb20 and has a lower comp ratio so less prone to detonation... So my question is to those who have been there and done that. What option do they think is the best bang for buck. can the SAFC be done all up for $500 - 600?? this was the option i was leaning to but i'm not sure of the gains i will get... i've read posts of uo tp 60rwkw gain after tuning! but are my mods too minimal for any gain? any help would be great or even a suggestion of an even better option that i didn't think of... Cheers, Warren.