WazR32GTSt

nah not there if u want the proper workshop manual it doesn't exist in pdf form as far as i know the thing on rb20det.com is just 10 or so pictures of some pages. pretty crap. i think there is a company which translates and sells the full worshop manual for $200ish. do a search if u want to know more...

penrite hpr 15 its semi-synthetic 15w60 car loves it and i change not one k over 5000 as long as its not completely shit anything that's either full or partial synthetic will do if you change every 5000kms...

hey guys, i just did a search on tinting and saw that quite a few ppl have it done... i want darkest legal (no darker - i don't care how good it looks), lifetme warranty and fade-resistant. that's right not that crappy stuff i want some good stuff. prepared to pay up to $300. what price am i looking at? does anyone reccommend a good place? (i'm in the north west area) Thanks in advance, Waz.

yeah mate for another 7 or 8 months anyway...

ditto above. you will find it probably happens with the windows and fan etc as well. did u just have a dead battery? definately the alernator that's why the battery died too... re: using more fuel unrelated. drive more conservitavely...

insant, nah not me who got canaried. nismor34, i didn't deny them a look because i have got nothing to hide. if i had said no then they would have deliberately found something wrong and given me some sort of hassles. be nice to them and they be nice back. apparently they do still have blood flowing through their veins...

but we don't know that if i didn't have a p plate, or that if i was driving a commonwhore with p's, then would they have still pulled me over, or would they have not? this we will never know... what do u think? either way if we give them attitude and treat them like sh1t then they will return the favour...

well the fact that they pulled me over when i hardly ever speed or anything is a bit annoying. but at the end of the day if they are being told to randomly pull cars over and check licenses then they are just doing their job like everyone else. it was just pleasing with their attitutde etc. thumbs up if they treat all drivers like this

yeah that's a good point. i'm sure if i had a pod or something and they fined/defected me then i would be sitting on the other side of the fence... i was wondering if when he looked under the bonnet if he was checking if it was a GTR or not, or if he was looking for illegal stuff. cox he looked like he didn't know what he was really looking at. plus he didn't tough anything just stood there.

i thought i'd share my second experience with the cops... Was driving out to jimmy rowes (as you do on thursdays) and going down bulla rd. cop car was in right lane and me (p plates and carload of blokes) in the left lane. then they changed into the middle, and then into my lane. quite obviously they were intending to pull me over. i wasn't speeding so i had nothing to worry bout really as far as i was concerned... They flashed and i puled over. If anyone has read the latest issue of 'speed' magazine, the cop who sent a letter in said if its 2 cops in the car then its a partol car not a traffic car and they do checks and stuff. Two of them got out and one checked my liscence and asked some questions. the other asked me top pop the hood, and stood there looking at my engine. i suspect he was looking for obvious things, but seeing as i have stock airbox (hi flow filter) and stock bov etc. he didn't say anything else and closed the bonnet. then he walked around the car and checked the tyres i suspect to see the guard clearance but also the tread level. ha ha my car is completely roadworthy and legal so up their arse. they took my liscence back to their car and did a check and after 5 mins let me go. This was a pleasing experience as i really got no hassles and they were nice enough. i was not a smart ass and they were not smart back either. moral of the story (if there even is one): not all cops are bad Waz.

i believe pauline hanson was once quoted: "please explain..."

have beaten one by a car length or so i would say it depends on the drivers...

good work - i say grab him by the balls and pull as hard as possible! ... figuratively speaking ...

yeah is i give the accelerator a poke it goes up to normal its only if i let is run will it struggle for revs then come up to normal in a few seconds. its perfect when i start it when its warm. thermostat - good idea. has to be temperature-related i rekon. although i don't see how the coolant circuit relates to the starting characteristics...

how much would it cost to get a second hand rb20de exhaust cam, and would any other parts be needed to get that onto an rb20det?

this is the easiest method. make sure you get it all out though otherwise some will fall out while you are driving... i know from experience ...

whistling and sucking are not the same noise in my opinion sucking = whistling =

does your car have an LSD? excuse me for ignorance as i'm not sure about the NA skylines... also is there a brake upgrade that goes along with this 300rwkw engine?

Q: if i went to anexhaust shop and said "i want a 3" dump/front pipe in one piece" and they took mine off and shaped pipe to that shape to fit it, then how much would you guys think it would cost?

i have a similar problem: sometimes starts first go sometimes not (used to NEVER start first go). cranks fine. when it does catch on, it revs really low for a couple of seconds - like its trying to rev up but can't. in 5 seconds it magically goes up to 1000rpm and idles normal. dunno what it is. does this sound like spark plugs? tried cleaning AFM, played with TPS, ran some injector cleaner recentl. i htought this was a similar topic so someone might be able to help me too...

although i'm sure some may have gotten those explanations i thought they were rather sketchy so i thought i would add: blow off valve... primarily used to prevent 'compressor surge', which is when the throttle body closes and the boosted air flows back through the intercooler and through the turbo which is spinning in the opposite direction. not good. the bov opens up when the throttle body closes to direct boosted air out of the intake system. on a stock skyline it passes through a pipe and back into the intake so you don't waste the boosted air (and to cut down on noise) wastegate... when exhaust gasses exit the cylinders they flow towards the turbo. here they have 2 choices: 1) pass over the exhaust housing of the turbo, thus spooling up the turbo and compressig air in the intake. this is desirable if you are accelerating... 2) pass through the wastegate which is usually located right next to the turbo. remember back to physics and the exhaust gasses flow through the path of least resistance, thus pass through the wastegate and into the exhaust, thus bypassing the turbo and stopping/limiting the spool-up. This occurs when the turbo is at the desirable boost level. on some high-power cars this is not big enough to direct all the gasses around the turbo exhaust wheel, so they fit an externally-venting wastegate which generally flows more air. These are loud and pointless on a stock car. bleed valve... the wastegate needs to know when to open or close according to whether or not the turbo is boosting. a pipe runs from the turbo to the wastegate to tell it how much pressure the intake is being boosted to. the wastegate then opens or stays closed as required to keep the boost level even. a bleed valve is a small (and cheap) valve that fits into this pipe and can 'bleed' (remove) some of this air. thus tricking the wastegate into thinking there is less boost than there actually is and make it stay closed for longer. For those that know more than me (most of you), please correct any of this if its wrong. Thought this may help bill. Waz.

are you also going to sue for your lawyer fees?

hey i agree akeenan. if you have a trusty brand with a viscosity range of your liking, then read the descriptions. i'll drop my dacks and run to the city and back if anyone can prove that a good brand $40 10w50 oil is any different to a good brand $30 10w50 oil. Plus, you save $10... in a year that's enough for a bleed valve...

seriously the pod is not gonna get you any more hp, so you may as well go for the panel seeing as its legal...

f u were putting a pod in the stock box, then effectively you are replacing the stock filter with a high-flow filter of the same type as the pod in other words, you may as well get an apex drop in replacement and save yourself modifying the stock box...