WazR32GTSt

and thanks for the reply

where is the sensor located? i want to check the connections but i don't know where to look...

JBE, how much are knock sensors and where are they located on the engine?

have you looked in the FAQ section? i posted part numbers in there...

how soon do u rekon they will be made? hopefully we can get some beanie use in before winter ends...!

bump - help anyone??

4cyl girl's car vs. 6cyl beast! hmmmmmmm let me think... - the back of the s14 looks very ordinary whereas the r32 looks the goods all he way around - you say the s14 is quicker, but when you factor in that you will save around $5000 buying an r32gtst, putting this into mods the r32 will be MUCH faster then the s14 for the same price - Also, RB is reliable and proven to last a long time (although with the right treatment they will both last long), but generally 6cyl can be trusted to last longer up to you at the end of the day but i chose the r32 when i bought for good reasons and have not regretted it at all. i have confidence that my engine will last at least 300,000 kms because my mum's r31 is on 400,000 and counting...

Dr Drift, one of the members here, re-tunes the standard ECU if u wanna speak to him it might be a good idea...

JBE, slightly off the topic, but i recently ran this and it came up code 34 - knock sensor what does this mean? as i have no problems with the car at the moment...

yeah killer exams... 3rd year is soooo much harder than second year what elective are you doing?

funky, can u do some popular beanie designs up in a poll as well?

those switches are about $18 from jaycar if it helps... or $20 from supercheap (the rocket switch)

check out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=18037

yeah remove, spray, let dry, replace! ps how did your biomed exams go??

ha ha so true... what about a soarer? can pick up a 91 auto one for 12k these days...

i think he is trying to see how far the car can go on as little mods as possible... not everyone wants to go and get 2 sets to wheels just for certain uses...

r32 type M does NOT have a GTR bonnet for the r32, i think the typem means 4-piston front brakes as opposed to the 2 piston. also, better steering wheel, rear wiper, and different front bumper. but you won't see many gtst's that are not type m anyway. this may or may not apply to the r33 but i thought it might help.

yeah ditto to inark evey second japanese car these days is an s13 whether it be 180 or silvia - definately the entry-level turbo car plus, from memory many things eg hicas/LSD were not standard on 180s like they are on skylines. options include HUD, LSD, HICAS, fridge in glovebox, sunroof. The more you want the more it costs and the skyline could end up cheaper... also, r32s looks heaps better (180s look like the older 300zx from the back) and if you want longevity you can't go past the rb series of engines!

haha ive already had 3 exams....last one next tuesday i started learning the entire subject yesterday and am trying to go at a rate of 9 lectures per day to finish on saturday better than doin an all-nighter u can't fake it like that in 3rd year!

if its carbon thats coming out (thus black smoke) then your exhaust tip will also be very black inside. check that out as it can be hard sometimes to get a good idea of the colour simply through the rear window

if you have a BOV that vents to the atmosphere then that could also be the problem - it adjusts for the air that is vented back to the intake when the throttle body closes i'd say a stalling problem is much more than a dirty AFM

www.meggala.com has wiring diagrams for the rb20 i think if not then try www.rb20det.com hopefully you can find what you need there...

there was an upper edition mondeo, the ST40 i think maybe they are more powerful and it was one of those? but they are a V6 anyway so it ain't that bad...

1. disconnect your AFM from the pipe that leads to the turbo 2. unbolt the airbox (if its still there) so that the piece conneted to the AFM is loose the afm and half the airbox should come out together 3. get some break caliper cleaner/ electrical contact cleaner from supercheap auto 4. hold the AFM upright and spray in small bursts into the AFM onto the element which you should be able to see. don't use too much - keep it for next time 5. let it dry (should not be long) and reverse the order you did to take it out to get it back in your AFM is clean! now all you have to do is reset the ECU and your right as rain!

For the R32 gtst (and maybe others?)... Some numbers and other stuff to help with service parts: Factory oil specs: 7.5w30 (but any rating as long as its synthetic / semi-synthetic is ok), 4.6L capacity Oil filter: Z145A Fuel filter: Z387 Spark plugs: PFR6A / PFR5A (NGK platinum) - gapped to 1.1mm or 0.8mm if you are missing Tyres: 205/55/R16, 32psi - check the spare as well! Water pump: 21010-21U25 Coolant: antifreeze-antiboil at 50:50 concentration, 9L capacity Thermostat: 21200-42L05 Timing belt: 13028-20P10 - should cost around $80 mark Hope this helps as lots of people post about this stuff all the time I have collated the information as i see it and recorded it into a book for myself but decided to put it into the FAQ section to help everyone Waz.