WazR32GTSt

SK.. no i'm not sure its a voltage problem at all.. just something that i thought might help but i'm not fused whether it works at all.. i have nissan datascan + ECU interface cable so can monitor my voltages if i want to on the fly... i might just stick to the grounding kit that i made (basically i just made about 6 grounds between important grounding points...) thanks all for your help! Warren

i suggest changing the fuel filter, and all fuel hoses and clamps this helped my problem

"losing your exhaust wheel" = the blades separate from the shaft as they are ceramic glued onto a steel shaft... how do the blades get chipped? something would have to go through the engine for the blades to get chipped... unlikely to happen on the exhaust side ither the wheel is attached to the shaft, or its not. ask those who have blown a turbo.. one second they wre booting it, the next second they have no boost.. there's no warning signs or symptoms...

firstly, dump pipe will fit under no worries.. the shield is above the turbo, while the pipe goes behind and below the level of hte turbo... as for the heat shield... just leave it off! that's what i did when i upgraded my turbo it doesn't actually remove heat, it only helps protect wires in the local area from melting.. which none of mine have done

rb20 turbo has a 6-bolt exhaust housing... not 5! if you wnt another one and you are in brisbane then i also have one for sale. PM me for more info! cheers, Warren

got mine yesterday... didn't come by registered though just normal post.. not that i care because it arrived having it installed friday hopefully... will let eveyone know a comparison to how it was with the 3" bellmouth previously

yeah but i'm not an electrician so can't just make it up from scratch with a handful of capacitors i rely on someone already having done that! anyone??

i have always had a funny idle but its more the many little things like revs drop when using electrical things etc its more of a "why not" kind of thing right now...

so i have made my own earthing system, and i wanted to add in a voltage stabiliser module... where can i buy a module on its own (cheap!)? i tried jaycar but they said the only ones they have only handle about 1 amp and that's not suitable for a car is it? i don't want to buy a brand kit because that's just a waste of money in my opinion... can anyone help? cheers, Warren

you don't "start to lose exhaust wheel" unfortunately. its either on there or it isn't! most likely options are: - kink in hose going to gauge - faulty boost gauge - clutch slipping so that you can't generate enough load to gnerate boost option 3 would require your clutch to be pretty much farked and you would feel this while driving i'm leaning to option 2 what does the stock boost gauge say? how does it feel compared to before the dyno tune? cheers, Warren

thanks thirtytwo... that figure is kW at the flywheel as the power makes its way though the drivetrain, energy in the form of movement (kinetic energy) is lost as heat and noise. Thus by the time is makes it to the tyres to move the car forward, much of the energy has been lost. that is what is measured by a dynanometer.. power at the wheels... which is 100rwkw auto and 110rwkw manual

oh, yeah i suppose it isn't as the sump is before the oil pump... right? so no one else has one instaleld and tested besides the guy organising the group buy?

i have no pics on my computer.. i could take some, but that would require effort! ha ha no i'll try and remember to take some pics tonight... seriously the accessories online ones (same as pictured above) are great quality and a serious bargain!

you will definately see a power increase with a cat-back.. as i said 10-15rwkw obviously you will see an even biger increase if you do the whole exhaust (dump/front pipe, cat, cat-back) - more like 20-25rwkw.. but everyone has a budget do whatever fits into that budget! but those figures i quoted were pretty accurate i think for a stock gtst and i mean out of the factory style...

you can get ones with a nissan logo direct fit for R32/33/34 at www.accessoriesonline.com.au and are $102 delivered for a brand new set of 4.. many colours to chose from too.. i have a set and love them! cheers, Warren

anyone else have one installed and tested? i'm keen but my biggest concern is not that the lever will turn in everyday driving, but that oil under pressure might leak past the valve...

i might go, depending on whether my new dump pipe goes in by then or not... if i don't make it, i had been planning on going in about a month's time and i was going to organise an event for then, so for everyone that can't go next week, hang out for the skyline attack in about a month! Warren

i don't condone at all this kind of behaviour but if someone else happened to block his exhaust with a potato or cover his radiator with some cardboard then it would be unfortunate for him

what about just use an ethanol-based fuel such as optimax extreme..

yeah what factory gauges were in there? i personally like it.. great effort!

i'm with you... piss off LPG!

nissan never released any stock figures at the wheels, only at the flywheel based on what i have seen on SAU from stock R32's including my own, i would say: auto - 100rwkw manual - 110rwkw gains from just a cat-back and nothing else? probably about 10-15rwkw...

is that a red-top rb20? or a silver-top painted red? if its a silver-top then how much for the cam covers themselves? Pm me... cheers, Warren

what's his username? get him in here!

i found that there are too many vertex kits goign around, and i don't like them! i like clean looking kits like the gtr front on a gtst, and kits that retain the original look of the car but just looking that little bit meaner hope that helps!