Brockas

Power FC It's not technically an over-run feature, it's just tuned on de-cel. Same way mine runs rotational, not technically rotational, but tuned with a fuel cut at 1000rpm and fuel recovery at 900rpm. DO NOT listen to this. BeeR limiter will make short work of your turbo. It's an ignition cut rev limiter. Think about what's happening, the ignition is being cut, fuel is still being supplied to the cylinder but not ignited, it travels out the exhaust port and into the turbo where the heat can ignite it. It's the equivilent of an explosion in your turbo, similar to how antilag works, except the unburnt fuel is not deliberately ignited on its way through the exhaust port.

Jaguar XJ220 V6 twin turbo 404kw

Exactly!! This is how mine looked when I bought it: and I've been lucky enough to be able to turn it into exactly how I think a 33 GTR should look (although thats just my opinion): The only things I think 33 GTR's need asthetically: Clear Indicators all round Ganador mirrors Possible a vented bonnet. GOOD wide rims Lowering.

Holy **** thats cheap!! Even with the repairs needed, the whole package for $4200 is unbelieveable. Have passed this on to a mate.

Same reason you see burnouts up hills. Those with pissweak cars need a 'chock' or hill to do a skid otherwise they don't have the power. 1 strip usually ensues. These are what we call "sikkunts", often found in low-economic areas such as kwinana/balga.

I wouldn't have thought low compression would cause a drop of oil pressure like that. Check your oil level immediately, if it's low it could be pumping excessive oil into the head at higher RPM. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT keep driving it if this is happening. It could cost you a motor.

Thanks rev, if there wont be that much difference in machining/part costs I will go for the higher lift cams. Will use the HKS step 2 264/10mm lift in/ex cams. And forgot to mention that these are the baby 2835's, low mounts. If it's still too laggy after everything is back together I will downgrade to 2530's instead of upping the rev limit.

Cars in the US are dirt cheap. I'm here in the US right now. To give you an idea: 2001 Dodge Viper - $45,600 AUD 2003 Lamdo Gallardo - $152,000 AUD 2005 Aston Martin DB9 - $148,700 AUD 2000 Ferrari 360 Modena - $120,000 AUD 2006 BMW M6 coupe - $91,400 AUD 2007 Corvette Z06 - $68,500 AUD See what I mean? The GTR will HAVE to be bloody cheap to sell at all here, otherwise it'll be competing with the likes of Aston's, Lambo's, and Ferrari's. It's a good car, but it wont be considered an exotic here.

Thanks for your replies fellas! The injectors will apparently handle 600rwhp, but if they dont I'll replace them at a later date. This is being done on a VERY tight budget, so the HKS kit is out of the question unfortunately Cams are small because they are supposed to be a direct fit and wont require massive amounts of head machining, nor anything else except guides. Cams + gears + guides = ~$1400. What would a 272 degree 10+mm lift cam setup cost me? I'm not 100% on what I'll NEED. If it's only 1600-1800 it might be worth it... ARP head and mainstud kit sounds like a good idea, however I really want to know what I NEED, instead of "just in case"?? Oil Pump will stay as is, as I don't plan on revving it over 8k. But will definitely be organising an oil return from the back of the head. Thats a great suggestion. I should have really been more specific, what do I really NEED for such a power level?

anybody?

Just going to use this thread, as it's not really a unique topic. Will be going for 550-590awhp, maybe 600 but I think thats dreamland without starting to upgrade everything. Need to know what I need in terms of a motor build. I know the basics, but I just want to run this list by people who have done it to double check I haven't missed anything: What the car currently has: R34 GTR N1 motor (including n1 oil pump/block etc etc) HKS 2835's Power FC + Z32 AFM's OS Giken cross set + tripple plate clutch 660cc injectors and Nismo fuel pump All the usual bolt ons 480rwhp @ 20psi What I'm planning to put in it: HKS Forged 87mm Pistons Pauter Forged Conrods HKS Gasket Kit 1.0mm 87.5mm bore (or stick with 1.2mm?) Nismo Bearings ARP rod bolts Trust sump extension Tomei Poncams (260 x 9.15mm) + cam gears JUN Valve guides Block machining + head service What else do I need?? JUN Head bolts? Valve Springs? Tensioner? Harmonic Balancer? Once it's all back together I'm hoping to turn it up to 24-26psi and make 550+hp at all 4 (a lot of money for just 70hp more!).

Bad. I don't use the over-run feature much unless I've been hammering it and want to cool temps, so fuel economy is already poor. Obviously the fuel economy on decel is bad, 200-250kms from a tank if using it regularly. Can get about 350kms from a tank if I baby it and keep off the throttle on decel.

Low end increases? Keep your stock cams then. For mid-range increases, then 264 degree cams are the go. The reason people talk about TOMEI poncams is because they are a direct fit (~9.1mm lift). The HKS cams which are a direct fit are only 8.4mm lift, so most people just go for the TOMEI cams.

Decel tune. Mine does it at 1-2% throttle on decelleration. Dumps fuel in, makes for big big flames.

HKS Metal head gasket, or if you're going for a full build for 650hp, try this (all prices from greenline): TOMEI Forged Piston Kit 86.5mm - $1420 Argo Forged Conrods - $1100 TOMEI Poncam Camshaft and Pulley Kit Type B - $900 TRUST Timing Belt Cover - $75 TOMEI Gasket Kit 87mm 8.6 comp - $380 TRUST Oil Pan Upgrade Kit - $370 TOMEI Conrod bearings - $210 Valve guides - $400 Head service - $450 Pressure test - $55 Remove and resit vavle guides - $240 Will be more if you need oil/water pumps and more extensive headwork.

Exactly, it will reach its yeild point, where additional stress on the metal will not result in additional deformation. Obviously a gearbox of different metallurgical construction will perform differently, and will require a different amount of stress before it reaches this yeild point.

In WA, road fork you!

Not Illegal, in fact if you're registering it as a 2-seater then you MUST remove the rear seats. All holes in the parcel shelf and bare metal covered.

Exactly my point. Although I do like the point about the helical cut gearsets! Hadn't thought of that before... I guess both are simply an approximation.

Righteo. If it made 600kw at 2000rpm you wouldn't have to push it much to do those times either. Maybe thats the answer... You're right, lighter cars go faster. I'm sure this insight will be appreciated by the Nissan engineering team, they probably never thought of it.... Let me write it in caps for you: THE LIGHTER THE CAR IS, THE MORE IS COMPROMISED! I don't want an Exige interior/proportions, which doesn't have so much as a centre console or leg room fit for 2 midgets, and I'm sure those buying this car don't either.

I run a Tripple plate OS Giken clutch and OS Giken gearbox... don't think I'll be replacing anything too soon. If you bought a new R35 GTR for the SOLE reason that it does an 11.6 1/4 mile time, then 1. You're an idiot, and 2. You just forked out 100k+ for a car, 2k is nothing for a decent clutch. Once again, what do you want from this car? A well-priced production supercar capable of being driven for hours on end without being annoying, or a stripped out drag car?

:laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: :laughing-smiley-014: Fast quarter times require revs....? Thats some insightful stuff right there! Lighter = compromise. These cars have to have a modicum of luxury if they are going to be sold to people who can afford $100+k supercars, not boy racers who only care about 1/4 times. Why aren't we innundated with Lotus Exige S's? Because not many people who can afford them, want to climb into a go-kart for a day-to-day grind, even if they do only weigh 800ish kg's and do 0-100 in under 4sec. As said before, it does 11.6 down the quarter (so far) and 0-100 in 3.3, what more do you want??? Nissan Engineers aren't idiots, if they could save weight they would. Obviously though they have to keep in mind the marketing potential of things like adjustable suspension. It may be wank-factor, but wank-factor sells cars... just ask BMW.

You're expecting an AWD mid-11 second car to be gentle on clutches while launching? You are kidding right? There's just no pleasing some people! Back on topic: I would suspect a similar loss in power from the wheels to the engine as previous models (~80hp). Therefore, basing this assumption on an accurate 480hp at the wheels measurement, the GTR probably has about 560bhp (415kw at the flywheel). Why do people think that drivetrain loss = 25%? It isn't proportional to the amount of power the car is making...

Thanks for clearing that up Smokey! 2540's are discontinued, 2530's are well over 3k, and GT-RS's are over 4k. Still not a whole lot of interest in these for 2.6k. Looks like I'll just crank them up with the new motor and see what she makes...

haaaaaaaahahahaha It amazes me how people still consider these advertisements even after being told that it's a scam!