Dose Pipe Sutututu

the best, read all you twin fan boys: https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/differences_between_turbos Quote (also the best): "In most cases, for top performance, a single turbo is preferable because larger turbos are generally more efficient than smaller turbos. However, often there is not room for one large single, or the tuner wants the visual impact of twin turbos."

they're junk, pieces of shit.. even a single one on a SR20 (which I mainly play with) are horse shit.. make crap all power and lag.

now, time to get that twin scroll setup going with a GTX3582

Till their rubbish US designed gearbox grenades, mine started thumping into 2nd and started to slip at a genuine 170 xxx km (bought it off a family member NOT Edward Lees).. I quickly sold the car after I did a great standstill that lit up both wheels.

bigger compressor will lag more, is your setup twin scroll? If you're making that kind of power and want more with the larger rear housing.. probably best to dump both gates into the atmosphere and run the 3.5" exhaust.. if not, time for a 4" system.

^GTX3071 better than a GT3076

Walbro 450L F9000267 by TI Automotive will do it.. just need to wire it up to at least a 30amp relay and at 25amp fuse on some decent wiring. get 260 degree cams (there abouts) like the other boys.... yes big duration cams go brap brap brap brap at the lights.. but when you get flogged by a Golf GTI it's embarrassing .

ooo yeah going to redo my exhaust soon, 3.5" all the way and squeeze more boost into it.. wonder it if it will pop then

I would just go straight up to 2200cc Bosch injectors.. why not if there's such a small price difference.

Sure does, and I thrash it harder than I thrash a rental car... clock says 160xxx now... but because it came from Edward Lees Import, I've added a precautionary 200 000 km to it. I'm basing that off the sloppy tie rods, worn out bushes (subframe, diff, power steering, bushes on all arms, caster, etc.) all of which I've replaced with Hardrace and/or Superpro shit. Also, when I bought the car off the original owner who bought it off Edward Lees it supposedly had a major service done... when I pulled off the timing cover the belt looked like it had been there for a few hundred thousand kms lol... At the end of the day, zero fuuarks were given.. paid $4.5k for a stock R33 S2, albeit had wank Autosalon wheels on it and a bunch of rubbish parts on it which were removed and disposed of or sold.

You mean you'll get more lag and shift the mid range higher up the RPM.. Longer duration cams are not the answer to getting better response or making better mid range.. Yes you will make more torque yes you'll make more power but not where you want it.. and that's nice and early.

Why such long duration cams? no real benefit. A GTX3582 in twin scroll, twin gates will be a good choice with fantastic response on a stroker.

Well it's got a new turbo and a track day coming up on the 30th May, I have a feeling the old 360 xxx km Edward Lee's Special Edition motor might not like being thrashed off its tits making more power & torque.

Nistune is the best man, especially for a streeter.. it's a no brainer... If budget permits a Haltech, Link, ViPec are great too.. I personally like Haltech as the software is easier to use, but all 3x do the same thing pretty much. And if you're going to be doing some motorsports but can't afford the likes of the above ECUs mentioned, an Adaptronic is great.. it does have some idiosyncrasies but nothing too major.. and it's not 100% sequential as there are only 8 outputs.. so everything runs in pairs. Wasted Spark, semi-sequential injection.

Your Patrol needs a RB30 with some E85 and a silly GTX3582 on the side of it.. won't be slow.

check on the comp housing, usually Tao inscribes the build date on it

Well initially I was going to put 250kW but now that's being too harsh on the twin dinosaur boys

Not doubting it.. but you could easily have achieved the same with a single, made less heat, used less fuel, have less glowing bits on the hot side and increase longevity.

FYP

100% on that.. old R33 had about $1k of sound deadening in it.. covered the doors, rear quarters, boot lid, etc.. sounded great well the DD 8" I have is in a prefab ported box.. and if I never told you the size or what it was in you'll be thinking there's a 12" in the boot

When the light comes on, takes about 49~52L to fill back up to the top. I had a CG9? (1998) V6 Accord, it drank more than my shit box R33 and made like 1/4 of the power lol

just drop ze clutch, fry all 4s.. turning circle win.

you get to a point where you realise money better spent on home audio I just run basic Vifa splits at the front with no sound deadening, Jaycar kevlar rears, a simple 4x40 RMS junk Kenwood amp, 8" Port DD sub and a 300rms cadence mono... enough doof and clarity in the car when cruising to the race track lol

+10 for dose effort haha

I do like the audio setup, I once too spent big money on car audio on my previous R33.. however gave up on that because once the gate cracks you can't even hear yourself think hahaha