Dose Pipe Sutututu

do you have a proper diff? or running the gay as aids VLSD?

get a Hypergear high flow, will hurt less

I recommend a GTX2863 on E85 A RB20 makes very low torque compared to a SR20 due to firstly the capacity and secondly the stroke. If you say you don't want a lag monster I suggest either a GTX2867 or GTX2863 both of which are avilable in T3 flanges. Have a look at sonic performance, but be prepared to pay more than the motor 4 times for the turbo.

hose to ground dw about can who needs it in 2015?

need a thermostat, if you remove the thermostat you car will run like shit

FPCM only controls the -ve, once you've snipped and earthed your pump the FPCM is bypassed

I think you've got the wrong idea... SSR takes the trigger from the same trigger wire that comes out of the ECU to the relay at the back of the car.... do not use the output of the OEM relay to trigger your SSR because of the OEM relay dies you're f'd.

about 2cm from the top of the shroud to the fan.. with the 52/3mm radiators people usually grind down the flat part of the fan shroud as that contacts with the fan at high RPM pic for reference, see that flat area at the top of the shroud, just trim that off and you'll be fine using a thicker radiator...

pinch off the hose to the aux air control

if you've swap the AFM with the Nistune, and done all that rescale business make sure you change the values to the AFM Low Voltage enrichment, a few cars I've tuned needed this changed as once the car idles the ecu starts dumping in fuel and then the o2 feedback tries to correct it causing awesome hunting

must be Gran Turismo season

I personally have use chemical proof heat shrinks, however when they loosen up with age your wires end up being exposed... Better to use crimps, then slide the hard cover off.. heat up the metal, fill with solder and slide the cover back on. DO NOT BYPASS THE ECU, you need the trigger from the ECU that goes into the OEM fuel pump relay... if you bypass the ECU and your motor stalls, the fuel pump will keep pumping... in the event of an emergency you don't want that especially when fuel leaks are involved and heat.

reducing gap won't fix any detonation issues man

you should hard wire the E85 pump, they drain loads of current! I've gone full boofhead on mine and have run 12ga wire to the fuel lid and to a 40 amp relay with a 30 amp fuse

if you're using a Walbro 255, there's not real need to hook up a fancy relay.. just bypass the FPCM by earth the fuel pump wire from the top connector of the fuel tank cover. at 100psi load (which you won't ever hit) it only draws a theoretic max of 14amps @ 13.5v.. this would mean you're running 50psi of boost through the motor to achieve nearly 100psi fuel pressure.... Let's use real world numbers, your base fuel pressure is 3 bar, i.e. 43.5psi.. and you put another 1.5bar ~22psi through your motor.. that means you're only loading up the fuel system to 65psi or so... Soooooo... that means using a Walbro 255 you're only drawing about 10.5 amps at full noise... food for thought

Judging by the end result I doubt the OP has room for an aftermarket ECU and a proper tune, thus I suggested he just retard the timing to prolong the motor until he's able to get some proper ECU or even a Nistune

Sound like too much base duty cycle before it comes on noise. If you have a laptop, try reducing the base duty cycle

mixture is too rich to ignite, not enough oxygen even if you arc power wires inside a fuel tank it still won't ignite

on a non neo you are required to fit an injector boss, which is just a metal spacer/o ring combo allowing the injector to be seated correctly. Please don't go grinding anything.

what is wrong with the motor? I'm assuming you have a RB25DET NEO, they're pretty solid motors and will spin 400kW ish without any real drama. There are a few fellas here making stupid numbers on their stock motors and pound them often on the track too

I would retard the CAS if you want to do anything to protect the motor

since you're taking out the radiator and dumping fluid everywhere just put in a new OEM thermostat.. if you're unable to get OEM get the Tridon highflow series.. don't get their normal one.. it doesn't flow enough.

If you've bought one for a GTS-t then it will just drop in here's a guide I wrote a while back http://www.trak-life.com/diy-nissan-skyline-radiator-replacement-upgrade/

stock fan, stock shroud is the best

Are you sure it's a nistune OR just a re-flashed R33 ECU? Because R33 Nistune Type-6 boards are still in prototype and I don't believe they have gone to market yet.. Anyhow, these days you can use a RB20DET ECU with the new feature pack that controls VCT woots