Dose Pipe Sutututu

I only did the rear as that was the area that gave me the most grief on the track, probably doesn't help I have a fair whack of power only out of two wheels. Front end wise, I don't really have an issue with poor turn in, once again my car isn't that low so the control arms are ever so slightly pointed downward thus the tie rods aren't in a funny position to cause bump steer. I do run 7° of castor, I wanted to run a bit more but already the tyres are a bit too close to the guards on lock (running 265/35/18 all round).

run gate pressure, see if that goes away? if so, time for a Haltech R5, Samsonas, PRP catalogue dis dat, dry sump.

Muricannnnnnsssssssss bUt iTs hKs gOdZhiLllAAhh door stoppers that somehow look very similar to eBay turbos.

I used to run 4mm total toe in LOL... this was actually also recommended by 2x different alignment shops (BT Motorsports in Smithfield and also Porters Suspension In Kirawee)

I might try that next, I am just cautious as the rear end still squats quite a bit on noise, which naturally would toe the rear wheels out. I spoke to my aligner and he said to still run a little bit of toe-in to keep the car stable on power, however I agree to your point it would make the car clock not as well.

I don't think it's anything fancy or special to be honest but here goes subframe shifted up 10mm using the GKTech subframe kit subframe all welded up/braced Gktech diff bushes (front/rear) HICAS Eliminator kit (i.e. delete the Nissan tie rod ball joint junk on the toe rods) Camber arms, at -1.5 degrees Traction rods at 15mm longer than OEM White ARB on the softest setting 2mm total toe in 7kg/mm rear springs on MCA X-R dampers KAAZ 2 way LSD 265/35/18 Hankook RS-4 Over height isn't too low, there's about a 18~20mm gap between tyre and wheel arch (not a good measurement as my guards have been cut/welded) Control arms are pointed ever so slightly downwards I suspect my power delivery also attributes to traction, the car somewhat produces a linear ish ish power curve not like your typical exponential growth power curve lol. I get 1bar of boost by about 4200, 1.8bar by 4500rpm and it revs all the way out to 8600rpm. VCT enabled, big silly cams (no stock of the smaller ones at the time).

DOOOOOOO IT.. I took mine out (again) and this time welded up the cnut with the GKtech brace kit and powder coated it. I regret spending money on it, however the car does handle and hook up much better. In other news, out for more testing at Eastern Creek GP Circuit, aiming 1m50s this time round (will be 2nd time out on that circuit).

I find it hilarious that Nankang CR-S or CR-1 are more expensive than AR-1. I was planning on running them until I saw the prices and ended up with Hankook RS-4 So far, I must say I'm impressed with the Hankook RS-4 though, in 2nd I can put down all 438kW on the street! They performed well enough at Eastern Creek's GP Circuit too. Would be nice if Wakefield was open, could really push these tyres and compare them to the Nankang AR-1 tyres I had previously on the car. Back on topic, 7500km to 10000km per set of tyres is a respectable number for life with a mix of track/street. When I ran Nitto NT01s all round (Taleb Tyres parallel import special) they would last about 5000km or less per set.

Good choice, don't be like me and get a KAAZ 2 way lol.. It's so aggressive, I had to get diff place to reduce the initial clamp. My friends with Nismo diffs in their Silvias behave so much better.

Not at all, pineapples are garbage as you move the subframe even further away from the chassis. These are replacement subframe bushes

These ones, they're a little more forgiving than alloy. https://au.gktech.com/polyurethane-rear-subframe-bushes

Looks like you've got most of the bases covered, one mod I've done to date (dare say it's the best handling mod I've done) was to shift the subframe up closer to the chassis. This allows the arms in the rear end to sit more like how Nissan intended. My LCA now actually slightly point downwards, where as before they were parallel to the road surface. Overall gains so far, much more traction, no need to run 4mm total toe in anymore.

Also means you can setup differential fuel pressure on the Kebabtech 😎 So regardless of slightly fluctuations on fuel pressure you'll inject the right amount. Notice my logs before had rock solid AFRs? 😊

Would need a big list like adaptive cruise, lane assist, DCT or ZF, keyless start/lock/entry, adaptive suspension, better sound deadening, more airbags, better ABS system, traction strategy, etc. I'm pretty much describing a M2 or 3 or 4 lol. Probably due to cost, I believe he just paid a shop. If I were to approach that, I would take off the top plenum and get the flange welded on and then get all the crappy OEM leak valves, emissions crap shaved off.

It's slow for today's standards, does ok around the circuit compared to most boats lol I would sell this shitbox in a heart beat if someone offered the right money. Will straight away go buy a M3 and let everyone on this forum make fun of it lololol.

Yes I did, in hindsight, I should have just bought a fast, modern car like a M2 or 3 instead of modding this shit box. I ran a new patch harness from pedal to ECU. The power and sensor ground goes from the ECU to the pedal, then it is spliced from there to DBW TB. If you hop on IG, I have photos of my shit box, @nhbautomotive

Some reason I thought you were one of those Muricannnnnn (inserts word not 2023 appropriate).

Whoops, meant to say G35. This might be easy for you to access in your part of the globe. https://conceptzperformance.com/items.php?p=214

@Murray_Calavera It's a V35 Skyline pedal, ie same as the 350Z without the alloy pedal. I did have a 350Z one but wanted one with a rubber pedal.

Will take photos soon 😊

I preferred drilling 2x new holes next to the original ones to move the pedal more to the right. Then a bit of a Thai massage on the vice to lower the pedal and it's better than OEM

Found the post, I thought he chopped off the OEM flange and welded on a DBW flange, guess I remembered wrong. Old age showing lol .

Has been done by a member here, can't remember his alias but essentially the DBW flange was welded onto the stock plenum and all the OEM laggy leak valves were deleted. He's since sold the car. I dare say the OEM plenum with an DBW throttle would out perform the fancy stuff. I know I know, I talk tough with OEM plenums and pushing 400kW out of unopened stock motors but I don't have either of them on my car 😂😂😂

LOL... Farken R33, money vortex. I know the feeling, some how at night your brain keeps telling you to spend more money on it for no reason. You going to All Jap Day? Also there is merit to @BK's post, however might not apply to Nismo clutches out of the box. For context, my current shitbox once upon a time also ran a Nismo slave, paired with an NPC 10" carbotic. Long story short, I needed a new clutch and was too lazy to do it myself againn so I got Western Clutch in St Marys to supply and fit a new clutch. When Scott at Western Clutch supplied and fitted his modified Xtreme ceramic clutch (bends the clutch puks forward to allow gentle engagement and also driveability at low speed) he advised an OEM slave to be installed to allow the clutch to fully disengage as the Nismo slave has a reduced range of motion. The same clutch is still in my car (9 years old), been through 3x motors and seen power from stock all the way to 438kW, albeit it is starting to slip if you don't let it fully engage before hitting the fun pedal.

Yes, the OEM sensor is garbage