Swiper the Fox

good piston...even better ring package. They seal really well when properly bedded in....up to twice as good a seal as some US pistons/rings ive used. They are very under rated. good choice.

lol

i do...

its mine officially although i don't live in Sydney it was a CRD prepared car so its kind of a Sydney car. 1460kg, street registered, street legal rubber, synchro gearbox, 2.6 litre, small low mount turbo's, no NOS...etc soon to be much faster...catch me if you can.

I dont use any fittings on the rear of the head at all. I keep the welsch plug in there as per factory. I vent my sump to a catch can. Go back a page or two and have a read so you can understand whats going on. What your saying is spot on...the rear welsch pug hole that is used is well above the floor of the head...a dash 8 or dash 10 fitting has quite a small hole in it too...so the chance of this actually draining anything is negligible...couple that with a pipe running to the fitting that positively pressured with sump gases and its nigh impossible for anything to actually 'drain' down it. Ill post up a few pics of a head and ill explain a few things that may trigger a few more discussions. Why do all your engines fail if you only run 12psi and dont have oiling issues? This is not a dig...just trying to understand, as you know Dunc's ive got plenty of respect for you and what you do.

ive had the same issue in the past.

i got 4 numbers out of the 6 needed Stacey and I were planning on buying a couple of R35's today. Bugger

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up...51928_thumb.jpg this car has no engine!! WTF...lol

no they are not...01 is very much the baby brother of the 03. Steve explained it all to me why the 01 wouldn't work.

You are spot on Brad..well picked up and is a perfect example of how effective my system works. Cheers for the reminder. It was running a inadequate catch tank set-up that was installed on the car before i took it over. The engine wasn't one of mine, was not ran in correctly and was a mega breather. It breathed over a litre of oil on the out lap!. The engine was built and catch system set-up by a well known Sydney workshop that is often seen at track days. Ive got a set-up on it now which uses the same fundamental principles as the one on the drag car but utilises different tanks and doesn't blow any oil out now. It works a treat and has a welsch plug still in the rear of the head.

Sainty's can do you an alloy block but not much good for anything else but drag racing as they have no water jackets. They do an external oil feed rail to feed each bearing journal. An aftermarket VQ38 block maybe in the pipeline for a PRO FX drag car soon. The rules state an OEM cylinder head or block must be used so if built it will wear factory R35 GTR heads, a billet block, run twin HKS T51R SPL turbo's, drink methanol and be good for 2000hp+. Definately something that will put a scare into the 2JZ camp.

yes he is using an 01 box

sure...ill run a sensor in either side of the sump/block and log the pressure readings with the Vi-PEC. Easy.

good post...ive said my bit now. This could go on for pages and pages...ill be back in 20 pages time with some more info

Gary, as always your basis of your point of view is based on theories. I like to put the text books away and do some actual 'real world' testing. GT-RZ my engines make double the power and in its latest guise triple the power of most lightly modded RB's out there. Revving at up to and sometimes in excess of 9500rpm and over 34psi of boost pressure. Ive never had one of my engines spin a bearing or suffer oil starvation. Yes ive broken 1 N1 oil pump before on an engine but hey...hasn't everyone...this was done banging it of the ignition cut rev limiter at 9500rpm at the drags. Mostly drag, street and circuit engines (never done a drift engine). Gary is a suspension mechanic and uses Harris engines for his builds. My dipstick stays where i put it after i check the oil. Air travels the path of least resistance...if i blocked the breathers yes it would blow the dipstick out. The oil didn't flow out of the test pipe like a garden hose...it was more in drops flying out the end of it. Next time i dyno the car ill video it for all to see. Gary will argue his point till he's blue in the face and is not renowned for saying that maybe his theory is flawed...thats just how he is. The testing has been carried out...ive worked out whats best for my engines using several set-ups and ive shared this information with anyone who would like to use it. Happy motoring

Here's a pic of how the Japs do it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up...-1150528192.gif My question...if your removing the line and oil is running out of it its not draining very well is it. After the engine is shut down if its an effective 'drain' wouldn't you think the hose would have no oil in it? Id suggest the oil is coming up the tube from the sump and because of the small fitting in the rear of the head and the oil already in the head there it simply has nowhere to go so remains in the pipe until its removed and runs out the bottom...don't flame me on this one...its just a thought...thats all.

Ive ticked all the boxes through 1-6... My test showed that oil actually comes up the drain under boost and here's your 1-6...it is above the oil level...it is on "your" side of the engine...it is -10...its on its own (using the unused rear oil drain on my single turbo set-up)...i have restrictor in block...its is a new bedded in engine with my tolerances. This was on a street tune with BP98 using only 22psi of boost. We were very surprised to find that this happens as it is the opposite of what we thought would happen. I was intending on running this line to the blocked off -10 fitting you can see on my rear catch can in the engine bay photo above. If i did this id be emptying my catch tank after every pass...now i only do it when i change the oil. I don't agree with the way the Jap's do it through the head also...yes i agree with one statement you made above. Its much better doing it the way ive done it as it doesn't add any extra air volume or pressure to the head and breather pipes. Thats why ive never done it on any of my own engines and all bar one of the many ive screwed together. Its simply a waste of time. Ive provided evidence and done actual testing....where is the plenty of evidence you speak of? Im going to do the clear hose test when i have the time to put this to bed.

It took a bit of testing various set-up's but i believe what we have now is as good if not better than anything available on the market. yes RHS is inlet side of car. Hope my findings are able to assist anyone. Here's a pic of the sump

ok...ill tell you how after much testing ive set mine up. The rocker covers and the sump vent on the RHS of the Performance Metalcraft sump all run to what i refer to as the intermediate tank in the front corner of the engine bay. This tank allows the liquid 'heavy' oil to return to the sump when the engine is not on boost but most importantly allows the sump and rockers to properly breathe when under boost or positive pressure conditions. The oil misted pressured air runs up the braided -10 line to the tank in the rear of the engine bay where the 'thin' black fuely mist is separated or "scrubbed" from the pressurised air and the air is vented through the K&N filter attached to it. The fuely oil this tank collects is captured in the base of the tank and is discarded...this waste should not be allowed to drain back into the engine. here's a pic..the intermediate tank is almost out of shot but shows the general idea...it has a fitting on the base of it running to the sump for venting.

Yes...you gave the game away...bastard! Guilt's was there to witness this and it was with no added help from G forces on launch. People have taken this as gospel on a "sydneykid" said so it must be right basis. lol. There is a few things in this thread that he recommends to do that i certanly wouldn't. Ive never used a drain on any of my own engines and only installed it once on an engine i was building for someone after he insisted to be done. If used it must be plumbed to the right side of the engine to have any positive effect. Ive never lost any of my engines or any that ive ever built due to oil starvation. They have all been wet sump engines...dry sump's are a different matter altogether.

I did a test with our car using a long line from the rear turbo drain running it up higher than the rocker covers to see what would happen under boost. This was on the dyno with no G force effect on the car. The rear turbo drain is not used as i have a single turbo on the car now. Can anyone guess what happened?

no yours has arrived and will be sent to you tomm. you have pm thanks

When you are building a $250,000 Pro FX drag car it matters. You have to compete against rotors and 2J's making obscene amounts of power. To run 60psi of boost and not change the engine after 3 runs (this is what Titan Motorsport in the states do with their 2J engines) needs a very rigid thick walled block...RD28 is the only option for the Nissan runners....for now anyway...something else is being looked at too. If it works it will be big.

Because it was never designed to be an oil drain...its a vent for crankcase pressure...it goes on the right hand side of the engine. Performance Metalcraft designed their 9 litre race sumps with this in mind and have placed the vent on the right hand side of the engine. Ive always said one ill instal a clear tube and a camera under the bonnet to do a mythbusters on this one. Might be time to pull the camera out and prove it once and for all.

It was a bit of a co-incidence that i was again at Insight on the weekend (Scott Kuhner is involved with the development of both our drag GTR, circuit GTR and crews for us at the track). So i thought id snap a few pics with the phone. The Vi-PEC is still under the dash where i saw it the day before Superlap...why would the car run Vi-PEC signage at Superlap if it was using another ECU?? Elias' S2000 was there also and is another car that has switched to Vi-PEC with outstanding success. You maybe should talk to John Boston and ask him what he thinks as you guys seem to think he is the man. Call Scott at Insight or drop in and have a chat...he can go over all the winning cars at this years event with you and answer any questions you may have. We tuned the Vi-PEC in our circuit car on Saturday and got some excellent gains in throttle response and overall power. It made 520AWHP at 17 psi with the AFR's at a constant 11.5 with 17deg advance on BP98. This will be wicked up a bit this weekend after we replace the CAS as the Vi-PEC showed it running errors when we viewed the log...this is something that we couldn't have previously seen or known about with the old ECU we previously used. Yes Richard...it is impressive. Thats the reason why i am trying to share this information but constantly get belted over the head when i attempt to. Im over getting crap from the haters over this...you guys dont want to hear it thats fine...please yourselves. Happy motoring.