Swiper the Fox

charlie Plazmaman make a decent bolt-on RB25 plenumn...actually i have one off an engine i bought. PM me if your interested in it.

Beautiful well presented car Matt. Im not in the market at this stage...if i was id take it. hope your buying something better ? good luck

i may have a full set of cam caps and bolts...ill check tomm. pm me an offer for the full set...do you need the baffle caps as well?

Thats bullsh1t....i punched f**k out of a bikie who ended up in intensive care for a few days when he and a few of his bonehead brothers threatened me outside a nightclub. I was outnumbered but ended up knocking one out and giving another one a few before getting away after the bouncers came to assist me. Because i threw the first punch i was the protagonist/instigator....sucks but thats how the law is written and how it must be obeyed. I spend thousands of $$ to keep my ass out of gaol over the whole debacle.

Try telling that to Stacey...on her first ever run at the drag strip she ditched it in the gravel. Her explanation when she returned to the pits "i didn't realise you had to slow down that quickly" It was pretty funny.

ill take it...pm me your account details

im always on the lookout for bits having 3 GTR's and 1 Silvia to get parts for. i have lived on here today...made top 5 posters...lol

have a look at how mine is set-up

we use the following on our circuit GTR...standard igniter, splitfires and $3 copper plugs. it works.

are these not already sold?

I think if Brad cannot come up with something Dave the PPG helical would be the best option then. The straight cut is a fairly noisy box, where as the helical is much quieter but harsher to shift. Come up and have a drive of the car if you like to see what you think.

whats included in the front hub assembly?

We have a PPG helical dog in our street/circuit GTR and its a bit of a bitch on the street...very clunky and you really have to smash it into gear. We have not had any problems with it though and its done about 12000klms, been thrashed a fair bit and done Superlap. The straight cut in the drag car is so much nicer to shift and can be upshifted effortlessly using only 2 fingers. The whine in 5th is annoying though and makes highway cruising in Twoogle a bit unpleasant.

they are badly chipped...japanese 'drag' air filters (read none) have this effect on compressor wheels. i took quite a few photo's while i had access to the car...even took a few carbon panels off which revealed quite a few interesting things. The only thing they wouldn't permit me to do was fire it up, other than that it was open season. Im sure i posted a thread on here...ill try and find a link for you. here you go... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gu...&hl=HKS+GTR

The following three pictures are of the additional crankcase vent. I first started doing this mod on the 26 in the mid 90’s. It’s a common mod for high rpm engines, so it was a no-brainer for the RB26. Soon thereafter, the Internet got a hold of it and speculation as to its function ran rampant. “Additional oil drain-back” became the consensus, and consensus became fact. Now it’s well known as the additional oil drain back mod… Then it became a fact that all the oil in the engine will pool in the head and the engine will blow if you don’t have it done… Really? Let’s examine some facts. The RB26 has been lapping the Nurburgring starting years before the R32 came out in 1989. Lap after lap at full-boogie. Since then, the R33 and R34 have been lapping the same track. The N1 GT-R that races in the N1 class doesn’t have this mod done. Super Taikyu RB26’s don’t have this mod done. I can assure you that the RB26 does not have an oil drain back problem that warrants modification to implement an additional one. Remember the videos I posted of the Porsche engines in the cradle that simulate a run of the Nurburgring to test the oil system? Nissan has the same thing. So what’s the deal?? Blow-bye in ultra-performance engines. You get an RB26 up in the 10,000rpm neighborhood and lean on it with 2+ kg of boost and you have a blow-bye nightmare. See, all but one of the oil drains back into the sump on the RB26 are on the left side of the block. When we examine crank windage, that’s the side of the engine where the crank counterweights, rods, etc., are moving in a downward direction, essentially “pulling” oil back down out of the head. In the right-rear of the engine, there’s another port. This port is on the “pressure” side of the motor, and windage blows up this passage, creating an actual suction on the drain-side of the motor. At high-rpm, high-boost, blow-bye gasses can be so severe, that the single port on the right side isn’t adequate. Gasses are moving up all the ports, sometimes at high velocity. This effectively keeps oil from returning to the sump. What the large hose from the sump to the back of the head does is give the blow-bye gasses another path to the head, and allow the oil to return down the normal returns along the left side of the motor. In a drag motor, if we accelerate forward at 1g, the oil in the sump will stand up at 45 degrees. It’d be neat to hear an explanation of how the oil in the head overcomes the laws of physics and somehow runs forward to the front of the engine. In a circuit/touge motor like this one, oil will indeed return down the hose to the sump, which is the reason it needs to be lower than the baffles in the pan; on that side of the engine, any oil returning will simply be picked up by the crank and added to the hurricane in the crankcase. The above quote is what ive been telling guys for years...its not an oil drain as such its a crankcase ventilation pipe to release pressure to allow the factory oil drains to do their job at higher than factory rpm and boost levels.

Good stuff Dave...let me know how the box goes...most importantly the convertor.

Lookin' good Andrew...coming along nicely.

in saying low-mounts...maybe it should be bolt-on turbo's. that is turbo's that are straight bolt on to factory manifolds dumps etc. its just the term 'low-mounts' is more commonly used thats all Nismo 400 R N1...i think you will find the HKS R33 had a bit of both (high and low)...ive been over this car top to bottom here's a couple of shots i took.

Why should i even bother helping you out when you ask questions like this Or patronising ones like this or childish ones like this when you have genuine questions put to you like this one that has been unanswered for 3 years If you do have genuine question about the Vi-PEC product feel free to shoot me a PM so its taken seriously...If your just on here to throw smartass comments in threads your not wanted. back to the build thread...

Funny...he said nothing like that to me when i spoke to him last. Im just trying to help people out thats all...if some people dont want to listen and have a head in the sand approach its their issue...not mine. Roy the only issue we have had with Vi-PEC is interference with the USB interface. Ive changed to serial cable on my car now and it runs flawlessly. The Ruzic engine monitor plugging straight into the Vi-PEC and the Ruzic software having its own dedicated Vi-PEC set-up section is also a bonus. You can use whatever ecu you choose. Ill keep using what works for me best and i expect you will do the same. A few of the NSW roundy roundy boys were bagging the product only because i was using and recommending them...only to have their asses handed to them by Vi-PEC powered cars at Superlap. I thought that was very ironic.

i was one of the 1st to buy...so i may have been looked after. Ive only bought 1 V88 so i have no idea what they are going for now...anything under 3K is a bargain in my books. Yes a simple soldering job is required.

The V88 came with an adaptor board so it plugs straight in for $150...$2250 + $150 + $100 for 7 bar map sensor = $2500 My quote prices were spot-on. A bit of info if anyone requires it...the plugs for V88 and M800 are the same...if you buy an M800 and want to plug it straight in to the factory loom you can buy the Vi-PEC adaptor board to do the job. Cheers

Mostly trying to clear up Beer Baron's misinformation...got a little out of hand...sorry Darren, MoTeC M800 and CDI8 with coils fully wired in with all the sensors was a bargain at $10K As Dazmo said...the best ECU for you is one you can afford and one your tuner is familiar with.

Its an excellent top line product...why not? This site is about information sharing...i always share my findings that are gathered through actual testing...some of which costs me $1000's of dollars and pass this on at no cost. Why all the negative sh1t...because you know nothing about whats being discussed possibly? I have an old saying which is fitting right here...it goes..."If you want to know how bad something is, ask someone who doesn't have one or knows nothing about it. 2rismo wasn't asked to put a shot in the mag...he did it to have an informative accurate article. I couldn't care either way. I got quoted $10,000 to fit a MoTeC M800 to my car with all the costly add-ons...my Vi-PEC V88 came standard with all the same features for $2500...if i can help or convice at least 1 person to go the same way and save $7500 i think its worth it. That extra $7500 can buy some good brakes or suspension package for his car. Why do you push the RB20 cart so hard...its a passion...same with me when i come across an outstanding product. Id say the same for HKS turbo's, JUN camshafts, NPC clutches, TRUST intercoolers....these are all products ive tried and tested and found to have excellent results with. Why do you think my car performs so well...its because we do the homework on products and do back to back testing to make sure they are actually worth spending coin on...we just dont run out and buy something thats bright and shiny what comes with some funky stickers. The Vi-PEC has transformed my car from something that was virtually undrivable on the street to a car that is a pleasure to drive and own. Every single person that has a Vi-PEC would say the same thing about their car. Go on Roy...buy one and join the club. I love stirring up you Vi-PEC hater's...i get a good nibble everytime without fail.