Swiper the Fox

you need to balance to stop the dreaded shuffle....dont block it.

For those people PM'ing wanting prices on various bits....please understand this... The clutch and box runs a larger spline input shaft....you will need both the gearbox and clutch to make it work. If you only buy the gearbox you will have to get your own clutch rebuilt/modified to suit the shaft...alternatively the clutch will only suit the larger spline PPG input shaft so is no good for a car running a Nissan box. Save yourself the headache sorting various bits to make it work i.e. correct height bearing carrier etc. This is a cheap way to this set-up and not even factoring in the price of the transfer case or the base gearbox used to modify is a 33% saving off what it would cost to build. PPG no longer produce the billet sandwich plate and when they did that item alone was $1100! In my opinion the sandwich plate is what makes this box bullet proof as it reduces a lot of flex and stress.

This is a fully optioned PPG dogbox it has billet shafts, selector forks and sandwich plate. Comes with NPC twin plate clutch and genuine C's short shifter...these items are 3 meetings old and are in perfect order. over $15K to set-up $10 000 firm

Buy a Vi-PEC...no need for a z32 then...Call Scott at Insight for ECU and tuning. If you must buy a power fc see Jim at Croydon for tuning.

bullshit...ive done a few too....in and out in well under two hours just to check flywheel crank bolts. that clutch is a little different to the one i have but height looks the same. Merli wont buy one anyway...he's a bit of a brand whore... I bet he wears CK underwear.

$2400 retail...a little cheaper for trade ARP flywheel bolts $110 retail...again a little cheaper for trade.

There are no good tuners in Newcastle.

one down four to go!

whats a Link ?

ghey

ive made statements not asked questions.

Why would you bother with a D-jetro when its old technology. Buy a Vi-PEC.

I think its time for a bit of fresh blood. remove the warnings while you are at it. thanks.

is it the rough finish or the smooth finish? EDIT: it appears to be the smooth finish...my bad

piss off the "microguess" put a Vi-PEC in it and get it tuned by Godzilla Motorsport. end thread/

Yep and Yep

Mark Berry, Russell Neuman, Mark Jacobsen and Paul Diemar use NPC twin plates. Buy a real clutch Merli...not one that comes in a shiny box with fancy stickers.

yes Adam...r32 only

fixed...i before e except after c it was a cheap engine...couple of grand to build...it was such a good little unit...ive still got the block rods and pistons from it. It loved lots of boost and was a good mid to low 10 second racer. Jim at Croydon used to call it the freak engine cause it was so simple but powerful and most importantly efficient.

467 to be precise...done at Powercruise dyno comp...its on the dvd for all to see. VP 104 fuel was used and 34psi of boost...we actually removed the actuator lines and let the turbo's produce as much boost as they could muster...yes im crazy!! ( a few little dyno comp tricks were also used that netted nearly 20KW more than it had ever made before ) the set-up was fairly simple...Full HKS 2530 turbo kit...4 inch cooler...Power FC...stock plenum. The engine was one of my builds with all Nissan internals except pistons, rod bolts and cams. It was built tough and copped an absolute thrashing for 3.5years before the N1 oil pump expired at 9500rpm banging it off the limiter launching at WSID. I remember the night we cracked 400 at the treads on pump fuel...we thought it could never be done. Then we put race fuel in it and made another 42KW!!...ahh those were the days. Now if i dont make over 600KW im disapointed...

RB SERIES HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP The NITTO RB series high volume oil pump is a high quality and performance aftermarket oil pump that will suit Nissan RB20, RB25, RB26 and RB30 engines. Oil flow and pressure is dramatically increased over that of the factory oil pump which is critical in modified engines for reliability of the lubrication system. Failure of this system is the “achilles heel” of the Nissan RB series engine even on lightly tuned examples and accounts for a high percentage of engine failures. Factory and factory based oil pumps are highly prone to oil pump gear failure in modified engines due to the quality of the cheaper mass produced material used for the manufacture of the gears. Oil pump gear failure will result in indefinite engine damage. For this reason EN26 ball bearing steel is utilised for the manufacture of NITTO RB series high volume oil pump gears which are superior in strength and durability to that of both factory and its competitor’s oil pump gears. NITTO RB series oil pumps are supplied pre-inspected, blue printed, assembled and cleaned to enable direct installation strait onto your engine and assure total confidence. Detailed list of components: Gears: Material: EN26 ball bearing steel Housing: Quality alloy casting Technical Specification: Pressure relief valve crack off (dual springs): 120 psi * Pressure relief valve crack off (outer spring only): 75 psi * FLOW (LITRES / MIN) ENGINE RPM FACTORY OIL PUMP NITTO HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP 750 4.6 6.5 2200 15.3 20.2 7000 46.5 64.8

Use a Nitto pump...German engineering and cheaper than the Jap pumps. Im running a group buy for them at the moment for $1250 delivered. Rear oil drain is not needed.

not quite...but yes ive 'launched' one and it survived. my new Toughbook is better...lots more RAM better touchscreen etc.

my car is well known and its power output is quite public due mainly to the car entering dyno comps which are ran under strict conditions. My MPH has always matched the dyno output of the car...the 400m dyno never lies. The car had made 460KW+ at the tyres with the HKS 2530's but was never ran with that level of boost (2.5bar) at the track. its funny how some people like to elevate the power level of their car only to be caught out when they run it down the strip. Some of this is often not the car owners fault but of dyno/workshop operators trying to inflate their ego's or abilities. Ive seen it time and time again at dyno comps too when cars don't come near a figure it made at (insert workshop name here) and blame the dyno or operator only to have my car go on and be within a few KW of what it normally makes.

yeah 2 10ths at the slow end will net 4 10ths at the fast end.