Swiper the Fox

What is mostly overlooked in most instances...especially with the inexperienced is the ring package...same piston/different ring package can make the world of difference.

i might be up for a few sets of 6...will let you know tomm.

I have that effect on you...

you have got it spot on...obviously done your reasearch. good luck with the build.

ahh yes...now i see

what is the price?

Dan just make sure you have a nice medium between clearing the rib and clearing the conrod as too much offset can cause rod clearance issues.

See you out there tomm. Darren...those suspension goodies must have knocked a nice hole in your wallet.

lol...i like to make people have a little think for themselves first. The method i worked out is the best in my opinion and can be done without the need for a third party (machinist) to be involved. See how it goes on the SR and let me know what you think and what the results are. My camshaft specs are easy...i always use the biggest.

Spot on...nice of you to give the game away Greg...lol. If done correctly there is no need to notch piston...a correct thickness spacer and an offset of the jet should have everything sweet.

My friend up here i have been staying with and working for (building his 8 second VL drag car) builds Supercar engines for Triple 8 racing and they deal direct with Mahle in the states. They dont recommend piston modification but if necessary no more than 60thou be removed from the skirt and absolutely no material be removed from the pin rib (which is where the top of the oil jet comes in contact with) which cannot be spaced enough without the jet fouling on the crank counterweight. More needs to be done than a simple spacer to get it to all work correctly. Chopping up pistons is rough and bodgy in my opinion. Especially when it doesn't need to be done to get it to work.

DO NOT MACHINE THE PISTON...this is not necessary. With a bit of 'actual' thinking the piston oil jets can be fitted with the Mahle pistons. More material than Mahle recommends be removed needs to be machined from the piston to get it to sufficiently clear the rib and skirt. Machining the pin rib on these pistons is a big no-no. Brands other than Mahle can be notched because its simply removing material from the skirt and not the pin rib. Look at it and think about it and you should be able to work it out...it took me an hour of fiddling to get the 1st one right and 10mins to do the rest.

BCPR7ES...or PFR7B

would you like my bank account details...?

Bypassing the FPCM...there are many threads on this...please do a search.

im an advocate for not babying an engine for too long before 'wicking it up'...we ran my latest engine in for about 2 hours loading it up and down on the dyno.

oh yes...built engine, lots of fruit...im flying back to Newcastle today to check it out and snap a few pics.

Trent please post up a copy of the runs using SAE correction. this will allow and apples to apples comparison. DIN correction gives an inflated power figure thats more like engine hp than wheel hp. (a point i was trying to point out a start of thread) Thanks Were trap speeds obtained from any run ?

Right...we have another car in the Red R shed...Matt my no.1 spanner man has picked himself up a very tidy R32 GTR. Matt is the fella who made up the nickname 'twoogle' and has been under my car more times he's been in it...if anyone deserves to have a sweet R32 road car its him. The line-up is now complete...Drag Car...Circuit Car...Street car. Well done mate...pics to come.

ill give you $50 for the coil loom and ill cover the freight...say $65 delivered?

I thought that inflating dyno figures was due to something tiny.

great post Bakes.

got a nice furnished apartment in Bowen Hills...$550/week...and guess what it might be called? Skyline Court...can you believe it...it was always meant to be.

$200 for an RB30 crank....are you feeling alright Marko?

Guilt-Toy's tunes will do the 'pespi challenge" any day of the week against anything UAS can offer.