ActionDan

They are cheap because they are shit. Have not seen ever seen a WRX come close to an equally modified Silvia. f**k I hate Subaru's.

That's one vote for "Other"

Good info, thanks. Coolant is an odd one, stuffed head gasket or bad thermostat etc? Just haven;'t seen that on CAs or SRs, normally it's oil because that's Nissan life.

Remember PSI is just a pressure reading in the manifold and tells you nothing about the actual air flow being put out by the turbo/ingested by the engine. For safety sake, you will want to put it in a dyno at a bare minimum and not be getting into boost until you do. Make sure the AFRs are safe. As -9s are a step up in size compared to stock, they flow characteristics are quite different. Usually, people do turbos with an ECU/injectors/pump etc as you can't make good use of the turbos otherwise. Are the current turbos actually stuffed? Minor chips in blades is not a big eal at low boost and could allow you to get the other bits together and do it all at once properly.

Mild or mildER? Comparison doesn't mean much without knowing specs of each car. IF they were same tyres, same power and nothing else largely different, then cool. Thoguh you'd want to factor in cost to switch to the Evo vs gain in lap time. If we're talking 300kw silvia's on semi's vs stock turbo evo's on good road tyres but still going faster, then damn

Compressor map shows 22-psi is about max efficiency. https://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.com.au/2011/03/garrett-gt28r-gt2859r-56-trim-310-hp.html Approx 2.5 Pressure ratio on the graph. HOWEVER, people argue that the limiting factor to the turbo's longevity is actually the turbine flow/heat and as you can see from the graph, the turbine starts to choke before the compressor does. Choke = heat, heat = premature wear etc. So how hard you run them depends on the type of usage and your appetite for risk. 20psi should be fairly "safe" on both fronts, but 22-24psi squirts are not going to hurt a healthy turbo in a street application. Other variables come into play here also, fuel type use? E85 has lower EGTs = happier turbo. Size of dumps and exhaust? Bigger = more flow, less backpressure and less work for the turbo. Etc etc. We ran out of fuel pressure on the dyno at 373kw at 20psi on -9s in my car so this week we should see if it will happily hold 20-22psi. Keep in mind this is with N1 manifolds, 3" dumps into 3.5" exhaust, E85 and Kelford L182A cams (springs and head studs for insurance) with pods (proven to make more power at this boost on the dyno) and a Plazmaman intercooler. To run 20psi+ on these turbos you will also need fuel pump, injectors, an ECU to make use of it all, and quite likely AFMs if you stick with those rather than going MAP (which would also mean needing a MAP sensor).

Goal would be lap times. Ideally a built car or something requiring minimal finish off, not a project build.

Budget includes acquiring the car. To be fair yopu can get this for $25k or less and it would be fairly capable. https://tracksales.com.au/browse/circuit/timeattack/2005-evo-9-track-day-car-554.html Same power would see S15 with better power/weight. Is Evo grip enough to make up for that I wonder.

S14-15 vs Evo 7-9 Track Car Let the shit talk begin. As a club level dedicated track car, which would you choose and why? Evo is well regarded as one of the best track platforms around, but Silvia's can hold their own as well. For arguments sake, limit the budget to 40k purchase/build price as this is Club level events we're talking (sprints, enduro's etc, not door to door racing). Silvia is lighter, less complexity in terms of drivetrain and electronics, cheaper most likely, and easier to work on at home maybe? Evo comes factory with TS turbo, has proven AWD platform, stronger motor and gearbox (5spd).

We'll see when I get the final bill. To date he's been very fair with what he charges for and quite cheap on hourly rate.

Yep, swapped from SAFC/SITC to Nistune, didn't show up any ping until pegged for 4-5 hot laps then started to ping a little in 3rd. Will get him to wind some timing out and go thrash some more on the 9th.

Car booked for tuner on Wednesday, will get him to pop in a new rear extension housing seal also to see if that stops the leak. Grabbed a new filler and drain plug to replace the originals also. Grabbed a sheet of Aluminium composite for splitter V2 and marked it up, evening out some imbalances and measurements in the original. Managed to somehow end up with 3mm instead of the 4mm I wanted, but should still be OK I think. Will see how it behaves on the car when mounted and then brace/replace if necessary. The old one had a brace which added bugger all weight. A quick weigh and estimate shows I should save 4-5kg at most, not a huge saving but will look neater and any reduction in weight is a good thing. Won't be extending back to the engine mount as I did with the original as the swaybar "can" foul it under hard cornering at this ride height. This stops just short and allows the swaybar to move as needed. Using the stock swaybar for this round may negate that, or I could raise the car, but this way I know it doesn't matter what I do there will always be clearance for the sake of 20cm less.

Dropped the car off this morning. Tuner will measure clearances over the weekend and order required shims. Should see results next week some time hopefully.

It was on the car when I got it. Fitment seems good to me. There was some minor cracking around the vents in the clear (it had a carbon finish) and I had it prepped with an elastic resin and painted silver. Haven't seen any issues as yet.

Booked for Friday night