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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. No Crust Racing
    Visors is something to consider too as I'd like a tinted one.
  2. No Crust Racing
    I was building GTR then, no Silvia spending.
  3. No Crust Racing
    Coming of the back of RS3 then, but fair enough.
  4. No Crust Racing
    How so cheap? The club boys all run slicks from the v8 Ute's, $50 each, but you need an 18x10 to run them which is a shed load of work for a 4 stud Silvia lol
  5. No Crust Racing
    If you guys are already committed and only a month or two away, I can wait. It's gonna be wet here for at least another month and I have some projects I want to finish on the car before I take it out again anyway. Hadouken comparing to RS3 I think so both reviews will be good.
  6. No Crust Racing
    I can't try them on locally, there's nobody here that stocks them. There's 1 karting place and a few bike shops.
  7. No Crust Racing
    I'm fully aware they are different class rubber. My point being that if I go 1sec faster on 255 rs-rr and say 2sec faster on AR1, the AR1 are better value dollar for speed. All that said, this is still budget racing so I want them to last while giving me some thrills.l and not breaking the bank. Oh and going AR1 will likely bump me out of the class I'm most competitive in, I'll be in with the big hp, full slick, serious cars, so no chance of finishing near the top. That's not that important in the end, but winning is always nice too. I'll leaning that way, but in the middle of sussing out a new helmet and Hans also.
  8. No Crust Racing
    Yes and no. I can get 255 rs-rr for 600 and you know I'm all about dem budget buys for the Silvia.
  9. No Crust Racing
    What about 255? I can get locally got $225 fitted
  10. No Crust Racing
    Then how the hell did you he get them for $130 lol
  11. No Crust Racing
    Helmet + Hans Packages Been looking at Hans devices as I'm driving more aggressively, run a half cage, fixed back seat, and harness. I do use a little neck support donut, but after seeing crash test footage about how the head just moves forward while everything else stays put, a HANS makes a lot of sense. My current helmet is just a Sparx basic rthing, not HANS compatible so I'd need a new helmet and ebay is running various deals at the moment. This can be had for $850ish delivered. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131954318581?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true Anyone got experience with Racelid helmets or that particular HANS model? I'm also not sure which model in terms of degrees, I can measure this, but any advice on that front is appreciated.
  12. No Crust Racing
    Has anyone seen the AR1 in 255 R17? I can only find online listings for 235. What place in Adelaide had them that cheaply? Currently using 235 RS-R and was going to go for 255 RS-RR, but the AR1 seem cheapish and review wellish for racing myself against the clock. Ideally, would like them in 255 though as Im guessing the difference between 235 AR1 and 255 RS-RR will be a bit smaller.
  13. No Crust Racing
    I don't feel so bad now with an ECU, Wideband, Expander, and a few sensors
  14. No Crust Racing
    Nice.
  15. No Crust Racing
    Fuel will definitely help. Good luck with the tune, post graphs and then people smarter than me can help you properly.
  16. No Crust Racing
    Let me explain. N1s are full boost (low 20s) WAY earlier than that, even with Cams, unless it has the tamest tune in history. N1s, on pump fuel are not going to make 530rwhp, not here anyway. 5500RPM is high boost on -5s territory, with big cams, on pump.... "GTX2860/2863 should spool up around the same, as my current setup? " Who knows, because your setup is a mystery. A tag on a housing means nothing if the cores are not standard. None of what you're saying adds up so we're not going to be able to help you easily.
  17. No Crust Racing
    No idea because lots of what you say is contradictory? N1s basically ARE -7s so if they are magically not that responsive yet make 530rwhp, then maybe they are not N1s? You will also LOSE response from having bigger cams, if you're not compensating with gear adjustments, timing changes etc. Post some dyno graphs with RPM and Boost. I think you need to work out what you actually have first.
  18. No Crust Racing
    Which is why I said let's just ignore the numbers and look at % increase to take all that BS out of the equation.
  19. No Crust Racing
    You can reach 600 rw murican HP a lot easier than you can Australian HP. Our dynos seem to read very differently. If we ignore the numbers and just say you want to make 15-20% more power to the wheels at minimum (530 -> 600/650) and you can currently do 530 on N1s, any of those turbo combos will get you there, but the car will not be as responsive. You can look at putting better ramp rate/lift cams in as the Tomei are known for being a little soft, ramp especially. With cam gear adjustments you will "almost" match the response but with substantially more grunt up to. Otherwise, more cubes and full spec TS setup
  20. No Crust Racing
    All factory paint, genuine 1989 bruh
  21. No Crust Racing
    Heat gun required regardless I think. I've seen/heard reports of people getting 30mm out without issue and people cracking paint and denting guards in at 10mm, so mileage varies widely.
  22. No Crust Racing
    This is the mystery engine that somehow made 395rwkw on N1s? I'm using a bigger set of turbos and E85 and only managed 380rwkw, which I thought was considered decent for -9s. That's with N1 manifolds, good intercooler, big dumps, big exhaust etc. The only way you're going to retain N1/-7/-9 like response and make a minimum 447rwkw/600rwhp is to go full twin scroll (twin gates) single and most likely e85 and bump up the capacity decently. 200cc of extra capacity is not going to change the lag considerably. What dyno did the car make the 530rwhp on? Or is that 530 calculated engine HP?
  23. No Crust Racing
    I was hoping to not need to go bolt on flares. Would probs means more spacers and longer wheel studs to fill them out. I'd be better off with lower offset rims to fill the flares. Mixed info on how far I can flare stock guards.
  24. No Crust Racing
    How far did you get before it cracked?
  25. No Crust Racing
    Guard flaring, how far? Found some cheap rims for the track hack, concerned about clearance once I remove the drifter stretched tyres and put 255s on all round. Rims are 17x9 +25 Is guard rolling/flaring going to cover me or ideally do I need bolt on flares, which then becomes an issue as most flares I've seen are quite big (40mm) so the wheels would then sit well inside them and look odd. Front is wider due to spacers needed to clear shock with 255 and -3 camber effectively making the front +10. Measured roughly 15-18mm on the front and about 10mm on the rear in terms of straight line up from rim face past the guards.
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