blind_elk

detail here: www.rms.nsw.gov.au/registration/.../historic_vehicle_clubs_policy.pdf

It boils @130 because it is under pressure (from the radiator cap), not because it has coolant in the water - basic science. OP, is the thermo fan in front of the A/C radiator working?

Checked a few exhaust places - it would seem that maybe it isn't a Kakimoto muffler, just a Kakimoto tip. Certainly doesn't appear to be S/S. Anyway, one guy tacked it back together so I could refit it to the car and take it back Sat morning for a new muffler.

This is what it looks like: repairable?

I have a Kakimoto muffler on my R32 exhaust. I noticed recently that the weld has cracked where the (engine-side) pipe joins the muffler. Is this a basic weld job to repair, or is it special, like SS?

It's a track car - what does it really matter what the wheels look like? And if it's a track car, I wouldn't go any larger than 17" - after all, you want SOME sidewall to flex. Otherwise be prepared for "understeer central".

I would suggest that the needle of both is out of alignment on the spindle. You can fix it by VERY carefully rotating the needle on the spindle.

I must ask why people won't do a search first. And why would they think a RED light on the dash indicates anything other than trouble.

Had an instance many years ago with a L-series engine. One of the rocker arms had a small -ve clearance, ie too tight, which caused 0 compression. Setting the clearance correctly bumped the com,pression to 170 or so. So, yes, the slightest gap in the valve seat can cause a massive loss of compression.

When you rebuilt the engine, did you also do the head, specifically valve stem seals?

I would have expected that if Timken made a set for the BNR32, then they would be able to find them in their catalogue. They wouldn't need you to give them the specs. In my investigations (see my thread in Suspension), I am lead to understand that genuine Nissan bearings are SKF, and another (don't think it was Timken). You can get the bearings from CBC, or off flea-Bay.

Thanks for the offer. Getting them off eBay - $245 for the pair, delivered.

I've solved it. According to a local Nissan dealer, the AWD versions began in Aug/89, and both the GT-R and GTS4 are the same part#. Only problem is the cost - $200+ EACH

Effectively, Yellow and Red are the same. So, leave the Red "U" tube alone, join the Yellow to one side of the "catch can". If this is a track car, you will need to direct the other side of the "catch can" somewhere other than atmosphere - this gives you an oil / air separator. On the track, they are going to be concerned about the potential to drop oil on the track - a can vented to atmosphere presents such potential. Block off Green - although it really should be connected to a PCV valve. As you will have found in the many threads on the subject, loose pack the can with steel wool to give the oil vapours something to condense on. And because it is dealing with vapours, ie gasses, it doesn't matter a rotund rodent's derriere how high the can is relative to other engine components. The required volume of the catch can depends on the engine capacity. Smaller engines require smaller minimum can sizes, obviously. And the reason you need to separate the oil from the vapours is that any oil that gets into the intake air stream lowers the overall octane rating of the fuel/air mixture, leading to an increased risk of detonation on boost. While you are in there, you will get far better benefit by moving the pod to a place where it can always get cold air. As it is, it is taking in hot air from the engine bay, the turbo is compressing it (making it even hotter), then the IC is trying to cool it back down again.

I have a '89 R32 GTS4, in need of a set of front wheel bearings. All the bearings I can find only cover 6/91 onwards. Anyone able to confirm that the wheel bearings throughtout the R32 AWD range are the same part number, ie is the GT-R same as the the GTS4, and '89 on is the same as 91 on. TIA.

Check that the ignition coil relay - located down by the ECU - is working.

That's not a fault of the gearbox. Its like blaming the kettle for blowing up after you took out the 10A circuit breaker and replaced it with a 6" nail. My point about my "all of 180kW" shows that even with a 50% increase in power going through it, the box still works perfectly.

FWIW, I have a R32 GTS4 running the RB25DET. It was initially tuned to 180kW at all 4 (factory is only around 115 @ all 4). It still runs the factory gearbox. The box is still fine, no synchro problems, no selection problems. In my experience, Nissan gearboxes are TOUGH. Some people will tell you "I just broke my 4th box". I have to say they must really be mistreating the box. Treat the box right, ie no 7k-sidestep-the-clutch-launches, it will treat you right.

Since you've pulled the box out, might as well do the clutch anyway. At least you will know the clutch is new and good.

What ECU are you using in this build?

It will be exactly the same as doing the conversion to the R32 or R33 AWD variants. And those have been done to death.

If you jack the car off the ground and "drive" it, the front wheels should spin if ATTESSA is working. This is because the rear wheels are effectively slipping, so ATTESSA pushes drive to the front wheels. I don't understand why people buy AWD variants, and then disconnect the front drive so they can drift. Surely if you want to drift, for goodness sake get a RWD variant, don't bastardise an AWD variant. /rant

I reckon they are 6x1.0 - I have that tap / die combo in my set.

S1 or S2?

If you still have the original radiator with the A/C overtemp switch, you can hook into the relay to trigger the fans. In the R32, it seems to be set about 3C above thermostat.