blind_elk

So are you running a Microtech ECU? Have you checked the target rpm @idle? Have you checked timing maps @idle? Have you checked fuel maps @idle?

Actually, thinking about it further, what is happening is perfectly logical. The car has certain items that draw permanent battery current, eg clock, radio battery backup, alarm - they all rely on having permanent power from the battery. They all earth to the body of the car, and under ordinary circumstance would have a completed circuit through the chassis and the earth strap to the battery -ve. But since I've disconnected the earth strap from the chassis, the circuit is incomplete. Touching the strap to the chassis completes the circuit, and the resultant current flow causes a few sparks at the strap / chassis contact point as the initial contact is made.

I've been having problems recently where the car doesn't want to start cleanly without a jump start. It is symptomatic of a bad earth. So today I disconnected the main earth cable to clean the points of contact with the engine / chassis. At some stage, I accidentally touched the earth cable to the chassis and got sparks. Checked with the multimeter, and I have 12V differential between the strut nut and battery -ve. There is no voltage between +ve battery and chassis. So somehow the chassis is "live". Any suggestions as to where to even start looking. Could it be something in the alarm, because I noticed when touching the cable to chassis that the door locks appeared to be switching. Any help greatly appreciated.

I've been having problems recently where the car doesn't want to start cleanly without a jump start. It is symptomatic of a bad earth. So today I disconnected the main earth cable to clean the points of contact with the engine / chassis. At some stage, I accidentally touched the earth cable to the chassis and got sparks. Checked with the multimeter, and I have 12V differential between the strut nut and battery -ve. There is no voltage between +ve battery and chassis. So somehow the chassis is "live". Any suggestions as to where to even start looking. Could it be something in the alarm, because I noticed when touching the cable to chassis that the door locks appeared to be switching. Any help greatly appreciated.

I've been having problems recently where the car doesn't want to start cleanly without a jump start. It is symptomatic of a bad earth. So today I disconnected the main earth cable to clean the points of contact with the engine / chassis. At some stage, I accidentally touched the earth cable to the chassis and got sparks. Checked with the multimeter, and I have 12V differential between the strut nut and battery -ve. There is no voltage between +ve battery and chassis. So somehow the chassis is "live". Any suggestions as to where to even start looking. Could it be something in the alarm, because I noticed when touching the cable to chassis that the door locks appeared to be switching. Any help greatly appreciated.

A few other things: RB25DET P/S pump - $40 RB25DET A/C compressor - $60 (both from a Stagea)

This is a copy, doesn't have mounting screws/pins. Slight chip. I originally purchased this to mount on a R30 sedan - never happened. Located Melb W Subs. $50

According to YellowPages.com.au, Garry Millane Motor Trimmers in East Perth is an agent.

Choice of 2: VDO, 0-30psi Pricol 0-15psi $15 each, or both for $25. + postage (if applicable)

How old is the battery? Does the torque split gauge do anything stupid?

Make sure the throttle is closed properly and sending the "throttle closed" signal to the ECU.

Front differential unit, 4.375:1. Complete C/W / pinion, from a R32 GTS4. $150. Located Melb W Subs. Prefer pickup only.

Need to get rid of these RB20DET bits that are clogging up the garage: GTS4 engine block, unbored - $100 6 conrods, balanced - $60 Modified T3/T4 hybrid turbo - $75 Inlet manifold - $50 Exhaust manifold + dump pipe - $40 Fuel rail, minus injectors - $20 Standard camshafts - $50 pr GT-R camshafts - $100 pr All located Melbourne W Subs. Pickup only.

When measuring resistance, voltage is irrelevant. Pins 101, 103, 105, 110, 112, 114 are for INJECTORS, not spark. In general, the ECU does not supply power to anything, but provides a switch to earth. By my reading of the circuit diagram, each coil gets power via a relay to pin 2. Pin 3 goes to earth. Pin 1 goes back to the ignitor module, where it eventually gets switched to earth through the ECU. Plus an earth from the coil side of the ignitor (7-wire side).

Which ECU are you using? Which RB25DET - S1 or S2? Because S2 has the ignitor built into the coil, and doesn't need the ignitor box. Have you checked for continuity (0 ohms) along each of the wires between ECU and ignitor chip?

Have you got power to the cold start valve (under the inlet manifold)?

You have wider tyres on the front than on the rear. Which bozo came up with that idea? Asking for trouble, I feel. The aspect ratios are 35 front, 45 rear. The problem you are likely to have is with ATTESSA (4WD), not with HICAS (4WS). The width / aspect will be ok as far as ATTESSA is concerned, but really.... Some people don't deserve to own a good car.

You can set it quite high. If it were mine, I would be setting it around 90 or even 95. After all, it only needs to work while the car is stationary, or moving very slowly. Any other time, the motion of the car forces sufficient air through the radiator to keep the engine at correct (thermostatted) operating temperature.

Waste of time driving around at 60k in 5th gear. The engine works best near peak torque. 60 in 5th is not within a bull's roar of peak. If you need to accelerate even slightly, you labour the engine. My 32 (with RB25DET) doesn't even get into 5th at 80, and I still get 400+ in city driving. And "not excessively boosting" means little. Boosting chews fuel.

I believe that is incorrect. I did a car from NSW a while ago (3 years), and because the car was unmodified from original rego - basically original engine / chassis / VIN numbers - it wasn't necessary to have it inspected. Just take the old plates and a RWC to a Vicroads office, and pay the appropriate fees.

Have you tried a piece of cardboard or similar to protect the engine bay from the new oil drain?

As a general rule, if you have the engine apart, then replace all the bearings and rings.

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As for any car: - basically drive it from cold, ie letting it idle to warm up wastes fuel and does more damage to the engine. - as long as you don't gun it right up to your destination, then you can simply arrive and turn off he engine. You DO NOT need a turbo timer. - standard oil change interval is 5000. Filter every second oil change. - don't nail it as soon as you get out the drive. Drive sensibly - 3 - 4k rpm max - until the temp gauge starts to register.

If you are going to be using the original box, then K&N make a replacement panel filter. Seems pointless using a pod and fitting it inside the original factory airbox.