VB-

as above, pretty sure theres no such thing as 3564r, they're all 3582r's, with whateve rear housing you want. that said you can make your target power with a smaller, more responsive turbo

as a very general rule, take 1 degree of timing out for every 1.5psi of boost you increase (or maybe its the other waya round), but you really gotta know which part of the map to take it out of, and make sure you've got some decent form of knock detection in place while tuning.

i dont think Ray tunes emanages though? bloke by the name Cihan does them on Ray's dyno (dont know if he does all or just some?) either way, +1 for RE. Cihans site

burn the car, and the garage, its the only way

i'm still not getting how it targets peak cylender pressure. ideally the 'event' takes place at 12atdc? now, not confusing input with result, look at a tuned ignition map (cbf finding one lol) and look on an average tuned map, at around peak torque ~3500rpm, you will have a given figure for ignition timing, look closer to 7500rpm, and you will probly have similar timing figures, meaning that 'event' should be taking place alot later yes? how can you have similar advance when the piston is moving at twice the speed, and still retain the same end result (ie event at 12atdc)? does the change in volumetric effeciency changes the flame speed/delay till the 'event' THAT much?

+1 for running a 9 or losing the plates

im capped so cbf clicking the link, but is there alot of electronics involved? you could almost achieve the same result by having a strut/shock absorber between the two halves, with the right valving, it could lay down flat (extened shock right out) at low speed, but if your going to fast, the shock wont close up fast enough and you have a bump, make sense? might need a little ramp, long and flat, leading up to the bump to assist it laying down ahead of time but meh, i'm not a civil engineer, you work out the details

thats what im getting caught up on, its a calculation, not someting 'real world' if it makes sense. there are so many variables for working it out (just the ones you've mentioned, i'm sure theres heaps more) if one of those is slightly out, your motor wont be making the power it could be, or it goes bang. now what if 2 or 3 or more of those numbers are slightly out? will 1-2 degrees of timing really allow for that? for any given motor, how much info will you have to give the computer/how much calculating do you have to do so the computer can work out how much timing to give? how technical is the info you'd have to know? will you need to know all the in's and out's of the fuel you choose to run? sounds like it may be pretty involved/time consuming, time that a tuner could be fidling with ignition maps, getting the tune right, without any doubt, coz he will hear it start to knock/see the power drop off, and will find the safe limit of the motor. other thing is, from what i can gather, the computer is chasing peak cylender pressure, and trying to get the main flame front burning at that point? but, wouldnt that casue massive detonation in a turbocharged motor? (possibly NA too?)

yeah definately makese sense now. one question, i've only quickly skimmed over it, but i'm still missing something, how does the computer determine ignition timing? obviously when tuning for power, knock detection is probly the most critical thing to making the motor last, but from what i've seen, there is very little on the market that is reliable enough at detecting knock (nothing that can do it without human input) , and what is reliable enough, i havent seen mention of being used with this setup

infinite is nice, and essentially your trying to get the most accurate VE map, but problem is, your ECU will only have one VE map at the end of the day, and your motors actual VE is constantly changing anyway. you'll end up with a tune the same as if an actual tuner dyno'd it on a day with moderate temp/humidity wouldnt it? every tune should have a slight margin of error anyway, allowing for hot/humid/crap fuel, i cant see this thing giving a tune thats THAT much better than a guy running it up on the dyno and playing with the numbers himself. i'm not a tuner, the above is pretty much what i think i know please let me know if i've missinterpreted something

sweet thanks for that man. this is actually the first car i've owned that i dont use bp ultimate in religiously lol, but will now. dont know if i can be bother with oil changes though.... car only cost me 200

as above. its meant to run leaded fuel but now i gotta add this crap into it (only bought the car a couple weeks ago), but i thought a few jap cars from around this time didnt really need it, just not sure if this is one of em. any ideas?

do it till you smash the MF5, then fork out for an upgrade. those boxes are worth f*ck all second hand, so might aswell use it till its no good. i *think* you can still use the same clutch and flywheel when you change the box over too, so theres no issue if you want to buy a tough clutch. although double check on that as i cant be sure the R31's i believe should have pretty much the same box as the 32, just with a single syncro on first and second, overall strength, im lead to believe, is pretty similar

4 gallons of disel and a box of matches, then it becomes insurance companies problem

yeah its for my friends car, crunches third when downshifting, dont know if this'll help or not, but its easier than teaching her to rev match lol

as title says, which is best at hiding worn syncros? or are they both sort of on par? cheers, Ben

i always get these mixed up, but im pretty sure masterpower are ok, they dont fall apart like most ebay ones, although they wont make the same power/spool as early as a garrett. XS power are the ones to avoid, and will self destruct quicker than you can say "ahhh f*ck not again....." look on US ebay, like this joint goldfarbinc theres a thread on here somewhere recently bout holset turbos, shipped to your door off ebay for under $500

issat the real seedy looking joint thats upstairs down the end of the alley way?

still... keep thrashing it

numbers dont mean much, its how consistent they are. as a general rule, no more than 10% difference, which your outside of, but i wouldnt be too stressed about it. keep thrashing it

star east?

well done ^

if still 4wd, then v8. if not, then stock. what makes you ask this? is it ever going to happen? bit random.... or are you thinkin of putting a V8 in one but too ashamed to admit it? as a side note, someone up in sydney is building a VH41 (45?) power R32 GTR, still retaining the 4wd, with a couple of turbos thrown in for good measure. i think its performance metalcraft that are doing it..... cant remember now though

not true, it can be, just takes alot of pressure for a minute amount of compression

yeah i remember this happening months ago, ben ellis left, so did grant warne etc, dont know what happened exactly but they all got replaced ages ago