VB-

hey guys, just wondering if its something anyone would be interested in, if not i'll probly just keep it as a daily i guess. 82 bluebird, series 1, L20B, 5 speed, ~230,000km's. bad points: has some drift damage, main thing is front guards a little scuffed/dented and the indicator is missing. its not THAT bad, but noticable -needs a wheel alignment, cause i drift it into gutters n shit. everythign under the front is straight (your welcome to check) but, needs an alignment. is still fine to drive, just if you push too hard, you'll get alot of tire noise - does burn a bit of oil, i just allow for this in the running costs of the car (add about $10 a month). - no gear knob, last owner cut it off. still not really sure why good stuff: - reg till june, and i will sell it with reg, providing you sign that thing that says your responsible for any fines n stuff like that - locked diff, the single greatest thing, since, and indeed before, sliced bread. - 4 puck ceramic button clutch, ~ 2 months old, with reciept. very nice to drive with, easy to use, but bites hard when you kick it - i put a basic cd player in it, so you can enjoy your own tunes. - bit gutless, but does run really well for what it is. only has a slight miss when its cold, but this hasnt happened lately for a while, and only did it once every 4 or 5 times. again, this was only when it was cold, has always run great when its up to temp - new rotor button/dizzy cap/plugs semi-major service stuff done a couple months ago - had an old pizza delivery thing you stick on top that came with it, no signage on it though, i guess you can have it if you want? not real impressive to drift in the dry, is an absolute weapon on dirt/wet roads. coming out of a VL into this was a massive step up (yeah i know VL's are shit) but its just good fun, and makes learning easier. i see alot of people with nice, drift friendly cars, but they're too afraid to hang em sideways for fear of smashing it. thats not an issue with this car i'll get a pic up later tonight/tmr as i dont have transfer cable for my phone atm. looking for 1k, i believe its pretty reasonable for what it is. cheers, Ben

ok so i'm looking at buying a car, apparently hasnt been started in 2 years as he has both a better weekend car, and a company car as a daily. he says it will need all new oil and fluids etc, new battery. now all the fluids i can understnad, BUT, he lives pretty far from me, and i wanted to just take a battery to get it going. i asked if he would change fluids etc at my cost just to get it running for me, as i didnt want to go to see a car thats not running, but hes pretty busy and doesnt have the time to do it. fair enough, as i do believe he is genuinely pretty busy. now, i want to take a battery down there just to get it started and going, with the old fluids in it. now i thought that oil doesnt just 'go off' over time if its just sitting there, but not sure on this. are there any dangers in starting it with old oil in it? i'm worried it might start knocking and him saying its my fault for starting it with the old fluids in it or similar. the other danger is i get it home, change fluids, its still rooted, and he says its my problem. question is, is it safe to start it on old fluids? i was just going to take a battery and some basic tools. pull the plugs, crank it to prime it/build oil pressure, then start it normally. thoughts? ideas? cheers, Ben

old stockers soaked in diesel for a month or so. wont provide you with the grip you want though.....

The wheels on the supra are Rays Volk CE28Ns. worth = $$$$$$$$$ but any combo of black spokes and chrome lips will give u a average appeal. as for the middle pic in your post. they are quite cheap and look awsome. see them on many cars. http://bigotyres.com.au/showcase/index.php...products_id=270 the only problem with that is they have been discontinued for i think about a year now and any left overs would cost $4500+

yeah... i wasnt actually serious dude? i couldnt give a f*ck if she wanted to join the army

yes it works, no its not worth it. i'm pretty sure stocky himself said he wouldnt do it again. twincharging is really more for smaller motors, i'd say under 3ltr capacity, which although an RB26 falls into this catagory, still wouldnt bother mearly for the fact theres a million different turbo options available off the shelf, and you should be able to find something that makes your power requirement without leaving you with rediculous lag. rb's love to rev anyway i've always seen it being a waste because, twincharging would prove itself most useful on the street, if you on the track, you throw it back a gear and let rip, if your lazy/drivign normal, then yes the lowdown torque would make it a much nicer car to drive. if your chasing big numbers, like more than 600hp, the cars probly not gonna be a daily driver any more anyway, and if you want less than that, you should be able to find a reasonable turbo setup, without the great cost (and even greater headf*ck) of twin charging. had to quote that mearly for the fact it made me giggle probly biggest draw back of twin charging (besisdes cost and headf*ckedness) is that you cop the efficiency loss of both compressors. instead of having a 75% efficient turbo, you now have a 60% efficient supercharger after that, meaning your overall efficiency is down to 50%. (semi-random numbers, may actually be more or less than that). thats why i dont like the Bee*R twin charge setup more than others, i'm not a fan of because the supercharger side of it is non-intercooled from memory. they way around this is to run the supercharger and turbo and parrelel instead of series, but for this you can triple the cost and headf*ckedness. factory toyota superchargers are good to throw on an old commodore n stuff like that, they'd have no place in the engine bay of a GTR though. *just my opinion* so there goes the 'cheap and easy' was out. look into compound turbo charging, ask lots of people (you'll need to) because most people will tell you that its for running big boost in diesel motors. now heres the trick, when people tell you this, walk away, and ask someone else, until you find somebody that knows how to do it right. BL in america have done it on a supra, and came up with a setup that spools similar to stock twins but made over 800rwhp from memory. there is a graph floating around somewhere on supraforums. similar problems to twincharging, but i rkn it would be a bit simpler. needs a fair bit of room, but should be able to squeeze it down in a GTR bay with some work. it looks a bit complicated but if you can but out how it works you'll see its actually pretty simple. again tho, lots of cost and headf*cks. PS that twin charged 26 was from tomei i believe? dont think it ever went into production though? was more of a show-off thing, that never really went anywhere. thats saying something isnt it?

bet the production version ends up looking like a maxima lol

kiwi: det cans maximajim: would be useful but plenty of people dont use it and dont have an issue, just be a little conservative in the tune. in theory it all works well but i just cant see it coming together as your expecting it to. that said, you try it and let us know how it goes i'm keen to find out, just not to be the guinea pig

sounds like resonance might be more of an issue than the exhaust note itself i'm guessing you've got a reasonable sized exhaust thats only very thin walled?

lol @ replying to posts that are nearly 5 years old.

thinking more into it, i rkn the knock sensor itself will be more of an issue than the display. what sort of mods have you got maximajim?

dont even bother getting genuine jap race wheels if your budget is below 3000. the rule of thumb is 20s are pretty stupid but ive only ever seen 20s look good with massive offsets which your only gonna get in jap wheels and thats more like $4000. unfortunately buddy i dont think by the sounds of things your gonna be spending anywhere near as much as that. if you get jap wheels they gonna be 18s with +60 offsets or something stupid. get 18s because rubber is cheap, unless you have a massive kit stay away from anything bigger. tempetyres oztyres. have fun as for wheels on a black car. black on black is a no brainer, and everyone loves polished lips with black spokes

rips how long does it take you to assemble one of these bottom ends? hows availability? how would i contact you buddy as im quite serious about a rb30 in my hopefully new r34 gtr. my current r34 gtt is just to much wheelspin with the rb30 =[

how much would one of these bottom ends set you back. im only game enoguh to rev mine to 7000 lol

no one here has done that but yes it can be done. pretty much pointless because the amount of work you have to do will be more expensive then going custom

what modifications did u do to make the rb30 rev so hard to 9000rpm? custom crank girdle?

its alright to say join the defence force to do it, but do we really want a GIRL fighting for our country? in all honesty though, dont be a mechanic. as much as you want to, its just a bullshit career move. as above, dont let anyone sway you if you really want it, but just keep in mind, if you get fed up with it down the track, your either going to be stuck in a shit job you hate, or your going to have to start fresh, which you probly ownt do as you dont wanna go back to apprentice wages/no income if you go back to school think about it long and hard. and whatever you do, dont go to a dealership. i've got a few mates who did, still crap pay, still dirty work, and they learn sweet f*** all another thing to keep in mind, most of my mates that became mechanics did it for the love of cars, which they no longer have due to the job....

after i posetd the thread i did seach, and still didnt find anything. kinda weird when i searched for 'weld, welded, welding' and couldnt even find my own thread....

none wat so ever

LOL these guys are amazing. you have half trying to argue science with personal choice. listen guys.......your all more then happy to say why you like the rb26. but dont argue its better then a rb30. because its not. you may think "its a pig" you may think it dosnt "rev to 12,000rpm" (which is the stupidest thing ever because we all know this guy dosnt even know anything about going fast). you guys may even think that a rb26 can do just as good as a rb30. but ill all tell you this. a rb30 will make more power, quicker, faster, easier. its that simple. it WILL make more power on a dyno, it will go around a circuit faster, it will even leave u going wtf around a drift track. plain and simple its better. for all you idiots trying to argue that its not. here have wat you have said. its personal choice....which translates to i dont really have a real reason i just wanna show my pride for the rb26 dosnt want a mongol engine in his pure bred car........its a RB30.....Racebred....its the same shit. thinks rb26s can do the same thing.......thats like saying a rb20 can do what a rb26 can do, sure it can.....but why would you try when you can just spend less money, less time, less everything and use a rb26? basically jacks logic basiclly for everyone that wants to know the answer to their dilemma about going rb30 or rb26. the ONLY reason for going rb26 is because you either have a personal thing for the rb26...pride, joy, past histroy.......fine. but youll be picking the rb30 because it shits on the rb26 in every way shape and form. /rant

your an apprentice that cant afford a half decent cage but you can afford to run 8's.....? got more specs on the car? very interested just realised how old the thread was, never mind

^if you cant find someone to do it your not trying. as said, go off condition of the car, not km's

ahhh shit, thought it might be but never got that far. my bad

just for referrence, all the shit talking in post #98 wasnt actually me, friends been using my account. sorry guys

you will end up with a reading of tq at the rear wheels, its a meaningless number anyway