VB-

as long as it has one hose to the top of the actuautor you'll be fine. got a bit more of a description of the exact problem? sounds like it could be dying coil packs....

RB30, stocko refreshed, RB26 head, R33 5 speed. dunno if it'll be cheaper, but it will be 'worth it'

yeah i get you. best true sleeps i've seen are ones that look crap, genuine rust wins big brownie points lol

i had a 3rd gen prelude. it was given to me for free, i used it as a daily thrasher, cut the muffler off, and after a couple of months (really there was one particular 2 week stretch) of taking it to the limiter with no oil AND no water in it, it died a horrible death, and went to the scrap yard. while it was fun, i wouldnt go as far as paying for one if you do get one, get open pipes on it, just a catback, but have no mufflers, as they actually sound pretty cool. i remember once got a random ECU error and went in to limp home mode, so rev limit was at 4000rpm. best drive home from work ever! peak hour traffic, but i'd wait for traffic to get a bit ahead so i could be a sick c*nt. it went something like this: brrraaaaaaaAAAAAAA NANG NANG NANG NANG *chirp* BRRAAA NANG NANG NANG ahhhh those were the days

i think thats the point, just like skylines. sure theres alot of stock ones out there, but theres also a shitload of modifyed ones. to me, a sleeper is something that will genuinely 'surprise' you when you see how quick it is. when i see quick XR6T's, its like 'oh... cool'. impressive but not something that makes u go 'woah... wtf just happened?'

yeah coz noone will expect an XR6T to be quick..... Haysey, i remember seeing pics of that yellow wagon at a drift event, frikkin awesome looking thing it was Basti, have you seen the chassis mods done to that granada? hardly a sleeper with the cage through it

PRICE DROP $400

just like supras ^. thats another thing to consider, if the factory cant get it right, what chance do you have?

cressida's have been done to death, and cant be a 'true' sleeper any more. it'd have to be something really obscure or pedestrain, that no hoon drives. volvo would be a good candidate. just pick anything that looks homo and cram an injectoed TT big block in there ones that have alrady been done that come to mind: VH commo, vacationer, all stocko outside, turbo 1UZ under the bonnet. cant remember what times it ran but bit was quick 2JZ shoved between KE20 strut towers, from the same guy that built the above some shitbox LH torana, faded green paint, full bogan *on my way to centrelink* look, stock wheels, ran 10's

ok, just to clarify a few things, as there seems to be alot of missimformation in here. 1. supras, and i think RX-7's (not 100% sure on the latter) use two turbos of the same size. with the supras, they use a series of valves and piping for sequential opertaion, ie: all the exhaust gas is directed through one turbo to spool it, then spread between the two at higher rpm, so they both make boost. RX-7's do some wierd shit where two compressors share one turbine, never really looked into it. i like pistons rings, inside the motor, not apex seals spat out the side of them *if there are any rotor fans on here, i do understand them better than that, and yes i know they last if built right* what your talking about, could be done with either valves and piping, or in a compound setup, as they do on diesel's. compound is where the bigger turbo will feed the smaller turbo on the compressor side, and vice versa on the exhaust side. thats how most have been setup that i've seen, although there may be variations on what gets fed by what. compound would be easier to setup IMO, as the only real bypasses or wastegates for exhaust gas, typically dont see bypasses on the inlet side. either way, both would involve alot of time and money as no-one has an off the shelf kit for skylines. one has recently come about for supras, from boost logic. keep in mind, you will spend alot more than the value of your car to get it going right....

yeah its not half obvious by the way he words everything lol i believe he has stopped now though

i've seen a few examples of them going for around/under the $500 mark by people who dont know anything about the drifting subculture, and you'll see the same cars for around 2k from people who are apart of it

i thought it said cant modify them to increase performance or something like that? whats the exact wording on the vicroads website?

why'd u mig instead of tig it?

guys i think you missed the point. read the article again, hoon driving is now a *sport* its a proud day when even a big fat c*nt like me can lay claim to being an athlete

no and you could probly do a straight swap for a happy meal or similar. that said they have actually had the price driven up in recent times but drifters, but you can still find cheap ones around from old people. hunt down an AE71 if you plan on doing a 4age swap later on though. PS - weld the diff, u'll have a ball

find someone thats done em before. i think its like $220 to start from scratch, but if they already have the cad drawing on file, should only be like $40-$50. havent priced them in a while though

yeah obviously i wasnt allowing for all the outgoings of having a dyno/shop, but i still think after all the outgoings, you'd end up with more than 900 a week in your pocket (depending on the flow of work). R31nismoid, re: salary, it isnt too bad, could be better, but how much would it have to be for you to pack up and leave everything behind to go work over there? PS: i may be a little biased, coz i've heard some seedy shit about dubai

well winter is all but here. factories + rain = drift just dont get caught like i did

i'm aware of tax situation, and how cheap cars are. dont take what i say as a personal attack, i just think maybe your looking in the wrong place for a tuner.... is there really no tuners over there? why not find someone who can learn how to tune? or find someone over there, bring them over here for a bit to learn how to tune?

shit, i was wondering where they went.... but yeah, $900 a week isnt a lot, even considering the tax breaks.

at current conversion rates thats about $3700 a month, or $900 a week cash. most tuners will charge ~$150 an HOUR to tune.... i dont think your gonna find a tuner, let alone one specialising in motec thats gonna pack up and leave everything in this country for $900 a week. however, i think that guy from Chasers, (Scott mighta been his name?) has gone over that way before to tune cars, i dont know if he'd make it permanent but its a starting point i suppose?

seems like pretty standard british touring cars. those c*nts are rough as. pretty sure thats where Ingall started out, thats why hes so keen for the bump n grind in the supertaxi series

hey guys. from past knowledge ive always noticed that a safe rev limit for built rb30s was around the 7,000RPM range, but after some research alot of poeple are claiming that the factory crank can do upwards of 9,000RPM. some even 11,000RPM. i honestly find this amazing but have never tried (or to scared to i should say). Most of you people know of R.I.P.S the awesome rb30 guys over in N.Z. they are one of the many that support this claim. if its at all possible i would like to know, my setup consisting of a forged bottom end rb30 spitting out just under 350kw @ the wheels which has been driven quite softly for the last 5-6months (with the occasional punt ). what steps/tests would i need to do to insure that my rb30 is up to the task of 9,000RPM or how ever high. its currently got a rb25NEO head but in the next week will be swapped with a rb26 out of a r33. i have been servicing the car every 4-5000kms. but i am about 2-3000kms late on the latest any information would be GREAT! Cheers

its a long shot mate, but if you want a quality turbo that wont blow (like factory stuff) ive got a Garrett GT3540 Turbo here. its big i know but cheap and good =D and will get you around 300kw, but has the ability to go up to 400. $1600 ONO let me know if ur intested