VB-

might wanna state where your from?

just to clear things up, the engineer comment i made was sarcastic. just for reference, i wouldnt say theres 60 degrees of overlap, thers 60 degrees between each cylender firing. i have been told that there is about 80 degrees of crankshaft rotation before the downward pressure runs out, so i'd say theres only baout 20 degrees of overlap no i'm not an engineer either

yes its possible. get Alu wire, and a nylon liner, althought it isnt 100% necesary, just do it. then maybe get a bottle of alushield too.

you must be an engineer right?

whats the fuel quality like over there? half my family is from over that way also, originally from Emmen i think?

darude - sandstorm

pics or its a CA18DE S13 ^ there seem to be quite a few of these getting around now, and even more in the build. good shit!

yeah you may have bought it 6-12 months ago, but it was probly sitting on the shelf for a year or two before you bought it. from memory, some batterys will print on there somewhere how old the battery itself is...

probly why Holden build a better car

might sound silly but have you checked the fluid level in your battery? only .2A draw would suggest either battery or altenator is gone... checked for good contact on the charge wire?

do you go to the one on malvern road, or the one on chapel itself? someone told me there is another 'lambs on chapel' on chapel st itself, the good ones on malvern road **i might be making this up**

do it and sand it back?

both afm's will work on the same range, but for a given voltage, the z32 will have more air moving through it, so your fuelling will be up the shit. just change it back, no point testing any voltages or anything like that

saw this somewhere else, i think NRE is building the motor for this....

what are are you from?

wont be the curve, look at the graph. it goes from making less torque, to making more torque across the midle of the rev range, ie, its coming on harder your imagining it. or something has gone wrong between it being dyno'd and you picking it up. i'm betting its the first one maybe you had all these ideas about what a RB30DET+GT35 'should' be like and thats thrown out your perception

X2. i looked at doing it aswell, ask discopotato about it, and binned the idea straight away. if anything, go CA18. cheap and cheerful, and will bolt straight up with the right selection of bluebird parts

doubt its in an R31 fatz, i'd say VL. look at the graph again, 3.45 diff ratio. R31's start at 3.7's or something dont they?

X2 Bas: what did you get cahrged with to lose it for 12 months? dangerous/reckless? i got my summons a couple of days ago, wasnt even gonna bother reading it, but something told me i should. theres like 5 seperate charges on there not looking good for me lol

yeah i did first think toyota, but thought it would be a bit small in this case. pics or a diagram would help out here, as i cant visualize just where the valves are or what they do in this case (bundy probly isnt helping this lol). im guessing its run as a straight compound system with a valve to bypass the supercharger when the turbo is making more boost than the supercharger? urtwhistle: reason for using the toyota charger in this case would be for the ability to 'switch it off' sounds like a very well thought out system, especially in the way its being controlled via 3d mapping. fastrotor. that little grean thing was great, i have the magazine here somewhere. but i think it was overcomplicated with valves etc, like this car may be.... if i was to do it, i think it would all be fixed, no valves or tricky sh*t like that, too much time spent for probly not alot of gain... any chance the owner of this VL will let you put pics up?

so you cant handle 500hp, and thought it would be a good idea to get 100+ more..... ninja edit - damn beaten to it!

X2 for spool valve. or possibly something like an eaton M90....?

friend just bought a new car, when sitting at lights in netreul, it randomly jolts a little bit, and will so so several times. always at random. tried with aircon on/off and didnt seem to make a difference. the jolt itself is also alot more severe than i've experienced on other cars with air con compressor cutting in and out. watching the tacho, it never moves at all while this is happeneing either. normally, stop at a set of lights, will be fine for ~5secs then jolt a bit, and do keeping doing it, maybe 10 times in the next 10 seconds, but theres no real pattern to it its done 108,000km's if that makes any difference? cheers, Ben

is it done yet?

nismoid, havent updated, not 100% sure how. have gone into bios and 'set optimize defaults' if this is what you mean by reset? or do you mean where you pull the jumper off and move it across then turn it on again? phoenix17, no i set the boot priority right, it starts to load the cd and begin the install prgoress, it gets to that screen where it says, press enter to install windows or F3 to quit, or R to repair. whether i press R or ENTER, it immeadiately says 'cannt find the HDD'