VB-

sounds like a bandaid/lie. i'd be looking at why your VL runs hot?

YES IT WILL, IGNORE THIS GUY ^

easy to get nice welds with stainless rods. just be wary that stainless will shrink/move/pull when you tack/weld it ALOT more than normal mild steel

this thread needs more 125cc bike motor *waits for smart c*nt to say 600cc+ motor*

LMAO beaten to it

^ thats alright if your a wannabe drift hero like me (i've nearly bought heaps of them at one point or another lol) for a young non car guy though, they are just a grandpa's car, and they were built in the dark ages haha. i bet his brother wouldnt like em

falcodore on gas

what makes you say that? i was always lead to believe even average breaks on a povopack commodore were the equivelant of like 400+rwkw. i've never tried it at speed, let alone in a ford explorer, but if u just mashed both brake and accelerator at once, wouldnt the car slow? i've been in a few shitboxes trying to do skids and got it going at a slow speed then mashed both pedals (weight transfer helps get the rears spinning haha) and most times if they dont start spinning the car will just stop. obviously there is more work in slowing a heavy car at speed, but theres also alot less torque acting on the wheels. am i the only one who would try and scando flick it and throw it into a hoop? just to do skids on a packed freeway as much as stop the car

regular fuel is 91. are you sure you havent gone from 98 oct premium to 95 premium and maybe thats why its detonating?

if its got pressure at the rail then the flow should be fine (unless injectors are stuffed) but as mentioned, are you 100% sure its pinging?

lol there was almost no info in that thread ^. but that last post pretty much sums it up, parent company went under, dyno dynamics is supposed to be doing well... but a few people got the arse? doesnt really make sense but thats the story that i've pulled from reading about it on other forums

it seems there are varying opinions around on them. places like HPF say they arent suited to the street becuase over time the water in the tank heats up and they've had trouble getting the heat out of it again (ie heat soak) others campaign for W2A coolers saying that they dont suffer from heat soak like A2A do. the secret, i believe, is in slowing the water down as it passes through the core and radiator, and allow time for the heat to really be transfered whered it needs to be. if you go ahead it with it, it could be something to try, fitting different restrictors on the water side, or even a tap somehwere in the system, that can adjust water flow to monitor inlet temps while on a dyno or something

i never said it had to be in a soarer. drive it in something else put it in a soarer ???? profit?

take a vvti 2jz for a drive

turbo parts for 2jz-ge are expensive/not much on the second hand market, even brand new turbo kits are *somewhat* limited. theres a mass of 1jz parts tho. also if you start with a 2jz soarer you still got hi comp, if you start with 1jz you can use your standard pistons to lower comp in the 2j bottom end

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2684546

should make 1/3 of factory rated power?

who would be confused by hearing a bov in a soarer......?

availabilty/popularity of the fuel world wide i assumed would be the main issue. but in aus, how often have you come across a servo without either of the two mentioned? i cant remember coming across a servo that didnt have lpg, and 2 out of the 3 cars i spend most of my time driving are lpg powered nothing wrong with small diesel engines (provided they are turbocharged). i think the smaller motors are where the diesels perform better personally. as for cleanliness, i thought they were better than petrol? cant say for sure though LPG tanks dont have to be THAT big. especially if its come straight from the manafacture, they could fit them specifically around the shape of the car. also lpg is a very 'green' fuel

to me it seems obvious, LPG or diesel powered hybrid, but doesnt seem to happen? why?

think atm we are getting $200 a ton at work, straight scrap steel tho, not car chaissis'

this is only worthwhile if you already have work done on the 1j head, or in this case, if you have a soarer and just want more capacity. there is a myth floating around that the 1j head flows better then the 2j item. its all bullshit

apparently its easier to adapt the transfer case to the supra box. (so said the russians that built the 4wd supra) what did the thai's use when they put the 2jz in the r32 gtr?

manual/auto?

the ceramic turbos in soarers are alot better than the nissans, there are quite a few peolple running around on 18+psi daily without issues